• Welcome to N-cars.net - the largest Hyundai N car forum. Check out the model specific sections below and scroll down for country specific forums. Scroll down for i30 N, Ioniq 5 N, i20 N, Veloster N and Kona N forums! Check out the i30 N Bible Here!
After having my throwout bearing/assembly replaced the noise remains. Very annoying and more audible when the vehicle is hot. Sounds like a dry bearing spinning when in neutral & foot not on the clutch (like I said above).
Shitty part about this is the service guy said the other components are 'consumable'' and therefore NOT covered by warranty. The Flywheel, clutch & pressure plate are the other components I'm talking about. Would love to know if anyone has made a claim on these using the standard warranty or even the "Track Warranty". Which I'm thinking is nothing more than a sales line......

My car is 2 years old today with 63000 kilometres on it & has never been on a circuit track, had a drag strip visit when it 3months old & had around 10 thousand on it so a while ago now. Haven't used the launch control yet either, MAYBE one day just out of pure curiosity :)
You should have a service and warranty book that stipulates the length and mileage warranty for clutch, brakes etc.
 
the service guy said the other components are 'consumable'' and therefore NOT covered by warranty. The Flywheel, clutch & pressure plate are the other components I'm talking about. Would love to know if anyone has made a claim on these using the standard warranty or even the "Track Warranty". Which I'm thinking is nothing more than a sales line......
There was this epic clutch saga with an Aussie member who eventually managed to get it replaced under warranty:


Over in Europe @NULLOBANDITO managed to get a flywheel replaced under warranty if I am not mistaken?
 
The noise could be coming from the gearbox itself.
I have a similar issue, the noise comes and goes (mostly audible after a more spirited drive). Reported to the dealership - they couldn't hear anything abnormal...
 
Hi all, can't seem to find if anyone has had anything similar,

At low revs in certain gears (usually 3rd-5th) if I'm going particularly slow and floor it without changing down (lazy overtaking) I have noticed that my rev counter picks up by maybe 3-500rpm then falls back down and then the wheels move to match. So it feels like clutch slipping but doesn't happen at any other RPM/conditions.

Car is warm, def not tyre slipping, doesn't always happen but seems to happen in phases. Seems to be just at point of boost coming on with turbo spool too. I am reasonably mechanical and very much feels like clutch slip but no smell and doesn't happen from stationary or anything if I get the clutch to bite hard, is it anything in the dual mass flywheel or some sort of ECU protection?

Asked my dealer last service but they couldn't replicate
 
Hi guys,
my shifts from the 1st to 2nd and to 3rd are really jerky. I really do not know what method should I use for normal, relaxed driving. Did you notice some kind of rev hang, because when I release the clutch immediately after shifting the car jumps. I have to wait a second and then release the clutch, but it is kinda slow in the city traffic. Flatout is not that jerky. I know it is a dumb question, but how do you shift between 2-3k?
 
Hi guys,
my shifts from the 1st to 2nd and to 3rd are really jerky. I really do not know what method should I use for normal, relaxed driving. Did you notice some kind of rev hang, because when I release the clutch immediately after shifting the car jumps. I have to wait a second and then release the clutch, but it is kinda slow in the city traffic. Flatout is not that jerky. I know it is a dumb question, but how do you shift between 2-3k?

Rip the shifter to make sure it's in gear and then slowly clutch in.

Currently I'm driving with rev-matching turned off to learn to properly heal-toe with downshifts and such.
 
Hola buenas tardes, tengo una pregunta y no encuentro nada a través de google, ¿alguien conoce las especificaciones de nuestra caja de cambios? , ver su capacidad máxima de par y datos serían interesantes

Mod Translation:

"Hello good afternoon, I have a question and I can't find anything through google, does anyone know the specifications of our gearbox? , see its maximum torque capacity and data would be interesting".
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Around 460 NM/ 339.3 ft lbs of torque with the stock clutch. However it won't last very long with this kind of torque being generated.

Why, what are you planning on doing?:oops:
 
Around 460 NM/ 339.3 ft lbs of torque with the stock clutch. However it won't last very long with this kind of torque being generated.

Why, what are you planning on doing?:oops:

So the clutch will struggle with pretty much all the Stage 1 remaps available?
 
It also depends on the age of the clutch. Most stock clutches when driven normally will hold about 440-460NM after ~40k km of usage. So if you wanna go higher with the NM a new, improved clutch plate does make sense.
 
  • Like
Reactions: R Veloster N
What about Racechip, doesn't that claim 500nm? I was kinda considering one, but now I'm a bit scared it will kill the clutch very soon.
 
The Racechip won't produce this kind of torque by itself. The i30N and VN produce their max torque at much lower rpms, which is why it's not hard to get the either rolling quickly.

This is also why the clutch is one of the weak links in the both the i30N and VN. The more torque produced at this lower rpm will cause the clutch to slip. If it's tuned from maximum torque farther up the rpm range, there 's not as much of an issue. Serious modifications require upgrade in the clutch to hold the amount of torque they'll produce. :)
 
Last edited:
How often do you change Dual Clutch Transmission oil?
In the manual it says: If necessary or depending way of driving 120 000km.
It sounds little rarely to me.
 
How often do you change Dual Clutch Transmission oil?
In the manual it says: If necessary or depending way of driving 120 000km.
It sounds little rarely to me.
Depends on how you drive.
If you drive normally for the most part, 80-100k km intervals will do just fine.

If you often do track/track-style driving, use your best judgement. I’d change it every 40-50k km if so.

The gearbox won’t blow up if you follow the 120k schedule, but it’s always a good idea to be on the safe side when it comes to fluid changes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jajodu
Hey guys, I saw this mentioned earlier in the thread, but just curious if anyone had a definitive answer. I have a 2020 Veloster N, recently I noticed that sometimes when I am driving in first gear and put the clutch in to shift or coast I can hear a metallic rattling sound that lasts for a second or two. It's different then just the metallic disengaging sound on other manual transmission cars, because I've never heard the noise last this long.

Does anyone know what this is? Has anyone taken it to the dealer? I'm assuming it's a clutch or flywheel noise, but want to make sure it's not a sign they are on their way out.
 
Is it only when shifting from first to 2nd gear,? What other criteria, only when cold, hot? A recording would help if you can make one.