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I'm experiencing the same thing with my i30N too sadly. I thought it might be fuel related but even after running through a tank of V-Power 98 RON i still cant get it to pop like it used to.
There's certainly still a gurgle when i lift off but nowhere near as good as it can be.
I thought maybe it needed a good bit of driving to clear it up so i did some spirited driving in N mode in lower gears to get the engine revs up a bit but still nothing significant changed.
My experience is the same as on the video in the last reply
There's certainly still a gurgle when i lift off but nowhere near as good as it can be.
I thought maybe it needed a good bit of driving to clear it up so i did some spirited driving in N mode in lower gears to get the engine revs up a bit but still nothing significant changed.
My experience is the same as on the video in the last reply
I recommend to do a visual check of the flap inside the right hand exhaust tip.
The flap should be open when the engine is off ,while with engine running , it should be completely closed in normal/eco and open again in N mode.
I recently faced the same issue and noticed that the flap was closed even when the engine was not running.
i follows the instructions to remove the solenoid, removed the spring , had a look at it but everything looked fine.
I put everything back , paying attention for the orientation of the spring and flap and voila , everything works fine again.
I can really be 100% sure but I believe somehow the entire thing. went out of correct orientation , failing to perform as it should.
Even if you don't take apart anything, I think it worth the check to see if the flap is correctly oriented per state of the engine and mode.
The flap should be open when the engine is off ,while with engine running , it should be completely closed in normal/eco and open again in N mode.
I recently faced the same issue and noticed that the flap was closed even when the engine was not running.
i follows the instructions to remove the solenoid, removed the spring , had a look at it but everything looked fine.
I put everything back , paying attention for the orientation of the spring and flap and voila , everything works fine again.
I can really be 100% sure but I believe somehow the entire thing. went out of correct orientation , failing to perform as it should.
Even if you don't take apart anything, I think it worth the check to see if the flap is correctly oriented per state of the engine and mode.
Had a quick look just now, it was all the way open with the engine off. Engine on/Normal flap looks to be about 50% closed. In all other modes this looks the exact same. This was all at idle. Is it supposed to be 100% open in N mode at all times? Or just under engine load/revs?
Edit: found this quote from another thread which sort of answers my question. Seems like I'll have to wait for her to warm up and check again.
Edit: found this quote from another thread which sort of answers my question. Seems like I'll have to wait for her to warm up and check again.
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So I sadly traded in my i30N after the technicians sadly could not find the problem. My original problem was that the pops and bangs were gone, then suddenly the turbo stopped making sufficient boost. I could feel it cutting out under heavy loads. Also a Nissan Xtrail kept up with me on a highway pull.... so yeah something was clearly wrong.
After taking it in, they took off the catalytic converter and it was crumbled inside. The honeycomb stuff inside was falling apart and that clogged the exhaust right after the turbo. At this point the car was at the dealer 3 times... Every time they plug in their computer, but for some reason failed to even look at the exhaust flow sensor values (which would have obviously indicated there is a fault at the catalytic converter)
Sorry for this bit of a rant, but if the technicians can't troubleshoot a car correctly, what is the point of having a 7 year 200k km warranty? Especially if you spend a day every month going to the dealer and booking in your car...
So in essence, ask the technicians to check that all the exhaust flow sensors are reporting a flowrate that is within the normal range and isolate the problem that way (IT WILL NOT GIVE A DIAGNOSTICS ERROR ON THEIR COMPUTER)
After taking it in, they took off the catalytic converter and it was crumbled inside. The honeycomb stuff inside was falling apart and that clogged the exhaust right after the turbo. At this point the car was at the dealer 3 times... Every time they plug in their computer, but for some reason failed to even look at the exhaust flow sensor values (which would have obviously indicated there is a fault at the catalytic converter)
Sorry for this bit of a rant, but if the technicians can't troubleshoot a car correctly, what is the point of having a 7 year 200k km warranty? Especially if you spend a day every month going to the dealer and booking in your car...
So in essence, ask the technicians to check that all the exhaust flow sensors are reporting a flowrate that is within the normal range and isolate the problem that way (IT WILL NOT GIVE A DIAGNOSTICS ERROR ON THEIR COMPUTER)
Hey mate, sorry to hear this. Is it possible that this might have something to do with the (pardon me) shit fuel that you seem to get in South Africa? Have an Aussie expat mate that I used to drag race old muscle cars with here before he migrated to Durban that was always complaining about it. He said couple of years ago that you can't even get 98 RON fuel there, still the case?
Hi, no I doubt that. Did see however, the dealer put 5w30 oil (instead of 0w30) in, that shouldnt have a massive impact, but it could affect the catalytic converter.
Also it may have been a bump or two that knocked it loose, I drove over a ridge which caused a bubble in my tire (no damage to rum thank goodness) but that may have caused it to start crumbling
Dealer probably did you a favour putting that at oil in it given the climate in you're in, in your neck of the woods. Got mine airborne (accidentally) more than once and had no issue so I beg to differ. All that said, don't make sense that your cat got killed, gotta be more to this.
Now that you mention that, the car was in a rear-collision accident (sitting at red light, mercedes C class guy on his phone collided with my rear end), car felt very solid and all, no one was hurt. The whole rear side essentially got replaced and also the exhaust tip was slightly bent on one side. It may have been that this could have made something in the catalytic converter loose, but everything was fixed under warranty and by my insurance, also the pops and bangs were still there after the accident, it was only about 6 months after the accident that the pops and bangs became muffled...
So yeah, a lot of bad luck with the car, also one of the reasons I traded it in...
So yeah, a lot of bad luck with the car, also one of the reasons I traded it in...
Ignore my previous comments, I had another look and this time it seems that the flap is partially open in normal mode and full at N mode. This was after driving back from work.
So since I don't have some documented proof of how it supposed to be and it's only from observation , I don't want to pass the wrong information.
Look at my video earlier in this thread of how the flap operates, the video was filmed in N mode, flap is always at 50% unless you give throttle and then it opens up fully when you switch the car off
I understood that in that video you are showing how it works while you are facing issues not having the pops & bangs , no ?
Mine seems that it operates in a different way than in your video and I do have the full "soundtrack"
Suddenly it has stopped making pops, if it is true that I have pumped three times from three different 98 gas stations, would they try to empty it and in two or three refuelings pour it from the same brand? power and torque is good, but sound has dropped a lot By the way, I have a flex pipe and a fap suppressor.
I can clearly hear burbles and pops in your video. And you are not revving it that high aswell.
Me uno al club, me pasa lo mismo, fastback 2019, he probado desconectando la válvula para tenerla al máximo de apertura, incluso en ese estado el sonido es muy bajo. Por eso creo que la razón es diferente.
MOD TRANSLATION: I join the club, same thing happens to me, fastback 2019, I have tried disconnecting the valve to have it at maximum opening, even in that state the sound is very low. That's why I think the reason is different.
MOD TRANSLATION: I join the club, same thing happens to me, fastback 2019, I have tried disconnecting the valve to have it at maximum opening, even in that state the sound is very low. That's why I think the reason is different.
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do you have a solution to this problem? I have a very similar situation. after the failure (hole) of the gearbox oil cooler and its replacement, I only have pops when I let off the gas (driving modes and the throttle in the right exhaust seem to work well). but the bangs disappeared when the gearbox shifts up and they were very very loud and now nothing, silence ... / the ambient temperature is the same (probably the fuel too) there are no errors on the ECU ... I've tried everything ... the car seems to drive well, it's powerful but it changes gears in silence for a week now...
https://youtu.be/V3ikhvrj3MU?feature=shared