-
Welcome to N-cars.net - the largest Hyundai N car forum. Check out the model specific sections below and scroll down for country specific forums. Scroll down for i30 N, Ioniq 5 N, i20 N, Veloster N and Kona N forums! Check out the i30 N Bible Here!
Battery options?
- Thread starter YNWaN
- Start date
Hi,
as far as i know, you have to connect the new battery then switch ignition on for about 30 sec. (not start the engine), switch off, close all doors, lock the car and leave it alone for at least 4 hours, then the ECU resets the learned battery values and start new learning cycle.
as far as i know, you have to connect the new battery then switch ignition on for about 30 sec. (not start the engine), switch off, close all doors, lock the car and leave it alone for at least 4 hours, then the ECU resets the learned battery values and start new learning cycle.
Oh, I’ve not heard that before - is that the usual process now? When my i20N battery was flat (so flat the horn wouldn’t even sound) the RAC just charged it a bit (in situ) and that was all - I then drove it home.
Hi, the battery is still working without the "Battery sensor recalibration procedure" after replacement, but if you do this, the determination of the "State of Health" and "State of Charge" begins from scratch and after that the ECU is able to maintain the battery based on correct values.
They did scan the battery to ascertain that it was still fit and able to hold charge - no mention of the ECU though.
What's confusing about it? You need a battery with the specs listed below, take the old one out, put the new one in, done.
1. CMF60L-DIN : The HYUNDAI model
name of battery
2. 12V : The nominal voltage
3. 60Ah (20HR) : The nominal capacity
(in Ampere hours)
4. RC 100 : The nominal reserve capacity
(in min.)
5. CCA 640A : Cold-test current in
amperes by SAE/EN
1. CMF60L-DIN : The HYUNDAI model
name of battery
2. 12V : The nominal voltage
3. 60Ah (20HR) : The nominal capacity
(in Ampere hours)
4. RC 100 : The nominal reserve capacity
(in min.)
5. CCA 640A : Cold-test current in
amperes by SAE/EN
Thanks! According to CTEK their CT5 START/STOP charger is suitable for all types of 12V lead-acid batteries (WET, MF, Ca/Ca and GEL) and is even optimized for AGM and EFB-batteries. Max output is 14.55 V, 3.8 A and it doesn't provide harsher voltage peaks during reconditioning phases like many others. I guess that would be fine?
Ok thanks! Apparently the i20 N battery is EFB. According to CTEK that'll work, but it might be better to not use any 15v recond modes etc.
Found myself last weekend with a flat battery after a parking on the sun on a really hot summer day. It was weird because a day earlier the start&stop worked well and I do extensive mileage every week with the car (about 300-400km weekly). The original battery was an CMF60L-DIN, the car is from September 2023. The replacement fitted by the dealer, to my surprise, is an AGM, with reference LP370APE060SH1
This is super interesting. I made a post a few months ago here: https://n-cars.net/forums/threads/has-anyone-else-had-battery-issues.13257/
My battery was also replaced (after a bunch of hassle with Hyundai warranty) even AFTER it was determined to be a fried unit due to being at a low state of charge for a long time. They outright refused to cover the cost of replacing the battery so I had to go to the dealer I bought the car from (many miles away) and after explaining the situation, they agreed to reimburse the cost of battery replacement.
The previous battery was exactly the same as you had previously, also on a vehicle registered after Sep 2023. The newly inserted battery is also an AGM (so a completely different one to before), and the code is DP370APU060SH1U (after googling it turns out its the same base battery as yours but different code, perhaps regional). It is however listed as a genuine Hyundai replacement.
So yeah, given that we are two separate owners with the same problem, it seems that this might be a consistent problem with the OEM batteries supplied to the i20N post>2023 ?
Hi,
My battery is dead, looking for replacing it my self, looking at Varta D39, but I am not sure which bolts are the ones holding the battery, could anyone show me a pic which bolts to loose and do you also think that the battery (Varta D39) is suitable?
My battery is dead, looking for replacing it my self, looking at Varta D39, but I am not sure which bolts are the ones holding the battery, could anyone show me a pic which bolts to loose and do you also think that the battery (Varta D39) is suitable?
One problem I can see with the Varta D39 looks to be that the positive and negative terminals are swapped over side to side compared to the standard battery. As the battery leads are very short I think you may struggle to connect the Varta up as the terminals will be a bit further forward in the engine bay.
Yes, faced that issue, going now to try a Varta A8, lets see if it will work this time