How-To: Adjust gear change cables correctly

[Jajodu]

Hi
In your experience is changing Transmission and diff oil needed??????????

Deleted.

My apologies. I got the wrong end of the stick there. The next step for me will be replacing the gearbox oil, but not at Hyundai inflated prices of £48.00 per litre. I've gone for Red Line MT-LV oil, they list it as a direct replacement to the OE. A helpful member who resides in the USA uses it in his veloster N and says it improves the gear change immensely when cold and gets rid of any baulking.
I got it from Opie Oils.

 

[Welsh i30N]

No I was just asking you as a mechanic / ex mechanic.
I meant as in is it required or advised. Is it just done by dealership to charge you more as surely it should be based on mileage and condition? I Only did changes on cars I didn't know history of and never had an issue in 30 years of motoring.

 

[Jajodu]

No, experience of the inner workings of the gearbox is not required, however you do need to follow the steps I outlined in great detail in my original post if you wish to have a successful outcome. Best not to avoid certain steps because you don't want to remove the components necessary to do it correctly.

 

[R Veloster N]

Hi
In your experience is changing Transmission and diff oil needed??????????

Do not change the ediff fluid but you can do the trans. However , the cables need to be adjusted if you are having difficulties, as well. If you've got around 10K miles it's sufficient to change the ATF fluid.

Gearbox - Transmission fluid?

I searched and came up with mostly nothing. I know it must be GL-4 compatible but does it have to have an LSD additive? I'm using Amsoil for oil and I'll probably use that in the transmission too. Does anyone know the torque specs, how many quarts, and location of the drain and fill plugs...

n-cars.net

 

[Jajodu]

Do not change the ediff fluid but you can do the trans. However , the cables need to be adjusted if you are having difficulties, as well. If you've got around 10K miles it's sufficient to change the ATF fluid.

Gearbox - Transmission fluid?

I searched and came up with mostly nothing. I know it must be GL-4 compatible but does it have to have an LSD additive? I'm using Amsoil for oil and I'll probably use that in the transmission too. Does anyone know the torque specs, how many quarts, and location of the drain and fill plugs...

n-cars.net

It's not ATF fluid, you Americans are so used to slush boxes, it's good old GL4, 70 weight.

 

[R Veloster N]

Welsh i30N said:

Hi
In your experience is changing Transmission and diff oil needed??????????

Two parts to the question;

In the US it's designated as an ATF specification from Hyundai, for the eDiff,. Hence it's commentary use.

I know what the trans utilizes, I've already replaced the fluid. You have both MTF Trans and ATF eDiff. Don't change the eDiff, as I stated above, certainly not before 10K miles to anything but what is recommended. Hyundai recommends that you don't change it at all. But if you do, this V per the Hyundai Service Manual;

Electronic Differential
Oil specification : SHELL TF0870B/ ATF
Capacity : 0.38L (0.1 U.S gal., 0.40 U.S.qt., 0.33 Imp.qt.)

Standard Oil
API Service GL-4/ MTF 70W

Recommended Oil
Shell Spirax S6 GHME 70W, SK. HK SYN 70W GS , CALTEX.; GS MFT HD 70W

Transaxle – Google Drive

drive.google.com

 

[Jajodu]

In the US it's designated as an ATF specification from Hyundai for the Ediff. Hence it's commentary use.

I know what it is, I've already replaced the fluid. Yu have both MTF Trans and ATF eDiff. Don't change the eDiff as I said above, and certainly not before 10K miles, to anything but what is recommended. Hyundai recommends that you don't change it at all.

Electronic Differential
Oil specification : SHELL TF0870B ATF
Capacity : 0.38L (0.1 U.S gal., 0.40 U.S.qt., 0.33 Imp.qt.)

Standard Oil
API Service GL-4

Recommended Oil
Shell Spirax S6 GHME 70W, SK. HK SYN 70W GS , CALTEX.; GS MFT HD 70W

Transaxle – Google Drive

drive.google.com

Don't worry I'm not touching the LSD oil. Just the gearbox oil. Thanks.

 

[R Veloster N]

My apologies, I was answering @Welsh i30N 's second portion of the question above. I believe you misunderstood.

I provided the link for the trans fluid, since it was already established.

 

[Jajodu]

My apologies, I was answering @Welsh i30N 's second portion of the question above. I believe you misunderstood.

I provided the link for the trans fluid, since it was already established.

Sorry, yes I misunderstood. Note to self, activate brain before replying.

 

[R Veloster N]

Believe me, I have my moments as well.

 

[Irish i30N]

The forge short shifter no matter what way It was adjusted it wouldn't stay in 1st 3rd or 5th jumping out of it.

Having tried this lock it in 4th gear with the forge short shift it still doesn't feel right.It doesn't go far enough in r 1st 3rd or 5th and the throw between gears feels different as in selecting 3rd is a small notch feel and 4th is a more positive feel.Even bringing back to centre feels bad.

 

[Jajodu]

Having tried this lock it in 4th gear with the forge short shift it still doesn't feel right.It doesn't go far enough in r 1st 3rd or 5th and the throw between gears feels different as in selecting 3rd is a small notch feel and 4th is a more positive feel.Even bringing back to centre feels bad.

Put the original items back in and adjust the throws using them, does it now work ok?

 

[Irish i30N]

Put the original items back in and adjust the throws using them, does it now work ok?

Yes everything is fine with original equipment

 

[Jajodu]

Yes everything is fine with original equipment

Have you tried moving the forge pins away from the fulcrum points?

 

[Irish i30N]

Have you tried moving the forge pins away from the fulcrum points?

Yes I've moved the pins in different positions and adjusted the cables aswell it feels like it's not going into the gear fully it needs to go a little further.Put back on original equipment and no such issues adjust quick shifter to similar adjustments and it doesn't work

 

[Bu11eT]

Yes I've moved the pins in different positions and adjusted the cables aswell it feels like it's not going into the gear fully it needs to go a little further.Put back on original equipment and no such issues adjust quick shifter to similar adjustments and it doesn't work

If you are unsure on how to adjust the short shifter maybe send Forge a message with some pics of your settings?

In my case they have been extremely helpful in optimizing the settings on the short shifter!

 

[Jajodu]

Yes I've moved the pins in different positions and adjusted the cables aswell it feels like it's not going into the gear fully it needs to go a little further.Put back on original equipment and no such issues adjust quick shifter to similar adjustments and it doesn't work

Have you checked the spline locations compared to the OE parts, just in case there's been a manufacturing error.

 

[Bu11eT]

Ok so some small feedback to the post from @Jajodu :

I adjusted the gear cables on a friends N. He does NOT have the short shifter installed. The cables only adjusted themselves a tiny bit, but it seems to have been enough, as the 6th gear issue is now solved for him.

Afterwards I revisited mine - remember, I have the short shifter installed. Actually when you don't have the short shifter set to be on the shorter side, the idea with the drill bit still works, as the holes line up again.
On mine the cables adjusted themselves quite a bit, as they had previously been on the 1.85mm gap recommended by Forge. All in all it was worth it, as the gear changes appear to be even smoother than before.

 

[Dzhedaj]

Thanks again to Jajodu! Have done this today, took 30 minutes.

A few things to note - I cut off a 5mm diameter shaft from an old screwdriver as my drill-bit was just too long to insert there. A 5mm allen key in the selector actuator. Anything smaller in diameter would just wobble and not fit snugly enough.
You have to remove the center console philips head screws from both left and right of the shifter, as you need to really pull it hard to the right when inserting the shaft to get things aligned.
Couldn't tell how much I've adjusted the side to side cable, but the shifter moved by almost 2mm judging from the green factory markings.

Gear shift has become smoother, especially 3->2 which was quite notchy previously (from day 1 I got the car).

 

[Jajodu]

Thanks again to Jajodu! Have done this today, took 30 minutes.

A few things to note - I cut off a 5mm diameter shaft from an old screwdriver as my drill-bit was just too long to insert there. A 5mm allen key in the selector actuator. Anything smaller in diameter would just wobble and not fit snugly enough.
You have to remove the center console philips head screws from both left and right of the shifter, as you need to really pull it hard to the right when inserting the shaft to get things aligned.
Couldn't tell how much I've adjusted the side to side cable, but the shifter moved by almost 2mm judging from the green factory markings.

Gear shift has become smoother, especially 3->2 which was quite notchy previously (from day 1 I got the car).

I couldn't fit a 5 mm Allen key in the hole, too big, hence the 4 mm key with some heat shrink to make it snug.
Glad it made the changes easier, the mechanism is ultra sensitive to cable adjustment.