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TarmoT 385bhp/526Nm i30ntracktoy - SOLD
- Thread starter TarmoT
- Start date
One advice for people who plan to replace tranmission mount - don’t choose black bushing of Powerflex if you are using your car daily 
Because I used to remove my front bumper for painting my aero kit, I made couple of pictures without front bumper
And it is how painted stuff will look on car:
And it is how painted stuff will look on car:
I have been hunting an used turbocharger on market for long time - new is 3200€ in Hyundai and all used ones have been on sales by more than 1700€.
Yesterday my patience was finally paid and today I received it...
It looks like there will be a turbo upgrade ahead
Yesterday my patience was finally paid and today I received it...
It looks like there will be a turbo upgrade ahead
Always a bigger Turbo.
Also @TarmoT you think the
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Guys - it is not a body kit It is an aero kit for track. It is a total overkill for streets and in most of world, it is not even street legal. For street cars I can recomend Ingo Noak kit from Germany. It is similar design but much more modest.
Regarding turbocharger - there are 2 options: going to billet comp wheel + balancing it (350bhp) or going grazy and also upgrade exhaust side of turbocharger (up to 420bhp). I will choose first option because my car is nor a highway wolf. I will aim 350bhp and even in this case we must make a very clever remap to keep car driveable on our small and slow tracks.
It is an aero kit for track. It is a total overkill for streets and in most of world, it is not even street legal. For street cars I can recomend Ingo Noak kit from Germany. It is similar design but much more modest.Regarding turbocharger - there are 2 options: going to billet comp wheel + balancing it (350bhp) or going grazy and also upgrade exhaust side of turbocharger (up to 420bhp). I will choose first option because my car is nor a highway wolf. I will aim 350bhp and even in this case we must make a very clever remap to keep car driveable on our small and slow tracks.
NRC Stage2 racing clutch installed and 800km ( city-driving ) clutch brake in period started.
Oem clutch pressure plate (basket) design:
NRC pressure plate (basket) design:
Oem clutch disc design:
NRC clutch disc design:
My first impressions:
1. Travel of clutch pedal is shorter
2. Clutch pedal is harder to press (not too hard but just a bit more harder than Oem)
3. If Oem application started to engage on 2/3 before bottom position, NRC application starts to engage on last 1/3 before bottom position.
4. No additional noises or vibration
5. Clutch disengagement moment is not so smooth as with Oem clutch. It is more ON/OFF but nothing terrible compared to 3 or 4-blade racing car clutch. I didn´t manage to stall my engine so far
Our cars have anti-stall function what helps a lot - I will just start very delicate to rise my leg untill anti-stall function kicks in and after that I will rise my legg faster. No throttle required at all.
Oem clutch pressure plate (basket) design:
NRC pressure plate (basket) design:
Oem clutch disc design:
NRC clutch disc design:
My first impressions:
1. Travel of clutch pedal is shorter
2. Clutch pedal is harder to press (not too hard but just a bit more harder than Oem)
3. If Oem application started to engage on 2/3 before bottom position, NRC application starts to engage on last 1/3 before bottom position.
4. No additional noises or vibration
5. Clutch disengagement moment is not so smooth as with Oem clutch. It is more ON/OFF but nothing terrible compared to 3 or 4-blade racing car clutch. I didn´t manage to stall my engine so far
Our cars have anti-stall function what helps a lot - I will just start very delicate to rise my leg untill anti-stall function kicks in and after that I will rise my legg faster. No throttle required at all.
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A bit lower now (corner balancing makes it probably even more lower):
Left my car to the wrapping workshop today and made decision to change my project littlebit.
From this:
To this:
From this:
To this:
D