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Update: Car is going back to the dealer again next week to see if I can convince them there is an issue as it doesn't always present. It seems like sometimes it will get into gear fine and not vibrate but other times it will resist to get in and then vibrate once its in.

All other gears the stick is like a rock.
 
Driving my 'I dirty N' for a few weeks now. +2500km on the odometer.
Smooth shifting is not always possible it seems.

I am sure the clutch feel has allot to do with it. When you press or release the pedal, there is no feeling in it. It's just butter smooth without any feeling when the clutch is actually engaging. It misses this mechanical feeling.

My old Honda's all have a clutch fork that pressed the clutch, due to this leverage it gives great feedback thru the hydraulics , back to the pedal.

Our N's use a hydraulic throw our bearing. I am not familiar with this type of decoupling. But it got me thinking.

Maybe it is possible to upgrade the hydraulic clutch lines to braided steel ones? This will probably provide a bit less dampening, so hopefully more clutch feel?

Another option could be to take a look at the clutch slave cilinder, maybe there are some soft rubber bushings between the actual pedal & slave cilinder that also dampen the vibrations?

What do you guys think?
 
I know what you mean, for me everyday is a new day driving as I work shift work so sometimes tired and its like I am learning to drive manual all over again.
 
In all modern cars the clutch parts are just made better. The master cylinder and slave cylinder are more reliable, the throw out bearings better machined, and the clutch plate made with better friction material and a leverage ratio that uses a large part of the travel. They are hydraulic so there is no cable to bind or need for a heavy cable return spring.

This all adds up to ease of function, hence, softer pedal. A softer clutch allows the driver to more easily change gears without wearing themselves out during a track day, or while driving curvy roads. Heavier clutches tend to handle more power and sometimes feel sportier, but even on sports cars they are lighter than they were 20 or so years ago when they could be pretty heavy.

It's just more convenient, heavy clutches are sometimes really painful to work with when stuck in traffic or when you have bad knees, etc. :rolleyes:
 
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In all modern cars the clutch parts are just made better. The master cylinder and slave cylinder are more reliable, the throw out bearings better machined, and the clutch plate made with better friction material and a leverage ratio that uses a large part of the travel. They are hydraulic so there is no cable to bind or need for a heavy cable return spring.

This all adds up to ease of function, hence, softer pedal. A softer clutch allows the driver to more easily change gears without wearing themselves out during a track day, or while driving curvy roads. Heavier clutches tend to handle more power and sometimes feel sportier, but even on sports cars they are lighter than they were 20 or so years ago when they could be pretty heavy.

It's just more convenient, heavy clutches are sometimes really painful to work with when stuck in traffic or when you have bad knees, etc. :rolleyes:

I agree, but what I am talking about is the clutch feel. I am talking about positive mechanical vibrations that travel all the way back to the clutch pedal. The heavyness (or lightness in this case) isn't really the problem here.

On almost every old car you can feel when the clutch engages and starts to grip the flywheel thru vibrations in the pedal. This feel I am talking about is very useful to know when and at what position you can shift and the car starts crawling forwards.

In some reviews they say "the clutch feels like it's connected to nothing". And I agree.

That's why there is maybe room left for improvements!
 
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On almost every old car you can feel when the clutch engages and starts to grip the flywheel thru vibrations in the pedal. This feel I am talking about is very useful to know when and at what position you can shift and the car starts crawling forwards.
Oh I know what you mean, I loved that feeling myself but like I mentioned there is no heavy cable return spring anymore and all vibrations and mechanical feelings are eliminated because of the better manufacturing process. It's the way they are made and to be honest I haven't driven a car in the last 10 years (at least in the hot hatch segment) that has even remotely the same feeling like the old school cable clutches did! :)
 
Car went back to the dealer who said the vibrating in third is due to interference with the gear linkages and that its not a warranty problem. I said its crap and I don't like it... That I doubted that Hyundai spent all that money on design and decided that vibration in third was fine and they said "they all do it"
 
Car went back to the dealer who said the vibrating in third is due to interference with the gear linkages and that its not a warranty problem. I said its crap and I don't like it... That I doubted that Hyundai spent all that money on design and decided that vibration in third was fine and they said "they all do it"

Executive team at Hyundai might need a email...."they all do it" is

A: Bullshit
B: Unacceptable
 
Executive team at Hyundai might need a email...."they all do it" is

A: Bullshit
B: Unacceptable

I've reached out to BT who works with Hyundai in Australia to get his take on it.

C: Likely sign of premature failure and large warranty claims unless resolved.

This is my main concern - a friends IX35 had its gearbox start acting dodgy about a two years out of warranty (second owner) and the same dealership said it needed replacing to the tune of 15 grand. I don't want to find myself in a similar situation. Also, PS: a local shop did a coolant flush on the box and it hasn't hunted for gears since.
 
Sure, that's still just over $12,500 of those colonial Australian dollars. Add on the obligatory Australia tax for anything from overseas and if we get any change from $20k we might be able to buy one beer. :(
Note to self: don't break the gearbox.
 
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15k for a gearbox???

Was it an IX35 Enzo Edition??? :eek:

Quote was $14k for the box and $1k for labour in AUD. For comparison I bought a full built box for my r34 for $4.5k and paid $800 for the install.

I'm in touch with Hyundai about mine now and will post an update when I get one.
 
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Hello, there,

I ordered my i30N last summer and received it in October.
After the car had some problems at the beginning, it is now running fine and I am really satisfied!

In the last weeks I drove about 800km with the N :)

Nevertheless the car gives me some headaches. After parking the car in the garage it usually smells unpleasant. I would say after clutch. Not very strong but noticeable.
In addition I must say that the entrance to the garage is rather steep and must be started with grinding clutch. But I already noticed the same smell at parking lots in the plain. In addition, I often have the feeling that the clutch is a little rough.

The 800km were to 95% country roads and motorway, so little starting. My question is: Did you have a similar experience with the new clutch of the i30N? Does the clutch have to be worn in a little bit at the beginning and that will get over with time? Or does the i30N's clutch smell stronger than other cars, even if you let it slip for a short time? I've never driven a car with so few kilometres ^^ But I've never had any problems starting up on the hill.

I would be really happy about a few experiences! Hope you can take my doubts away ;)
 
The smell of all the new parts, mainly plastic ones, coming up to operating temperature is normal. Having said that, it should only happen the first few times that you drive the car.

The clutch... I can't help with that as wherever I've driven so far, including steep hills and underground garages, didn't have any problems with slipping or smells.

In addition I must say that the entrance to the garage is rather steep and must be started with grinding clutch.
Going down the entrance you'd be in first gear and on the brakes, so no clutch grinding /slipping there. Going up you should be also in first gear approaching the exit, no throttle, just rolling, and go up with as much throttle required. You shouldn't be on the clutch, or I didn't understand exactly what you mean. :rolleyes:
 
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