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Engine Engine Oil Discussion

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My oil temperature is also always stable at 90°C. Water temperature just below that. Fast road use, not been on track yet.
 
My oil will go up straigt to 90° and stay there when driving normally.
Whilst speeding on autobahn it went up to ~110°, outside temp was aroun 25-30°, then got back to 90° within minutes when taking it easy again.
Will be on the nordschleife from thursday - sunday and curious how the oil will take that torture since it's a 0W30 if im right :O.
My last care even got up to 130° when it was like 30°.
 
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Fishmasta said:
My oil will go up straigt to 90° and stay there when driving normally.
Whilst speeding on autobahn it went up to ~110°, outside temp was aroun 25-30°, then got back to 90° within minutes when taking it easy again.
Will be on the nordschleife from thursday - sunday and curious how the oil will take that torture since it's a 0W30 if im right :O.
My last care even got up to 130° when it was like 30°.
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I noticed that temp rises quite fast when in ECO mode, might be just placebo on my part. But the temp seems to "sail" quite a lot, i guess "thermostat" activates only high up. I guess this engine likes heat, ive only noticed fan activate once.

ps. today i've also noticed that oil circulates for quite a bit 30 secs or so after you shut the engine. You can actually hear faint "ticking" sound around turbo. i guess thats the "turbo timer" Very nice!
 
as far as i know the turbo has has seperate oil pump which will ciculate the oil after shutting the engine depending on it's temp
 
UK Manual says Helix ACEA C2 or above
So should I use
Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV L 0 W-30
ACEA C3

or

Shell Helix Ultra ECT C2/C3 0 W-30 Motor Oil
?
 
There is a bewildering selection. I went for Shell Helix Professional 0W-30 AV-L which meets ACEA C3.

Discussed here.

Does anyone know what dealer supplied oil is?
 
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Mark46 said:
I had read Pollack’s post, but didn’t see any photos of the actual procedure. From my experience having a look and talking about it vs actually doing the job are two very different things.
When you say blocks are you referring to bricks etc?
To be honest the more I think about this I’m beginning to think that I might just let the dealer do it at 1yr/ 10,000m.
At the end of the day the car has a 5yr warranty let the dealers worry about it, I don’t think we have anything to gain from changing the oil early.
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excuse me, never saw your post. i don't shot some pics from the procedure, but for me is clear how to do it. Just to loosen the screw, let the oil out. change the filter, put the screw back, let the car down and fill the oil in.
 
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Hi all l have just had to top up my oil for the first time it was on the low reading of the dip stick have done 8k seems to using oil for this mileage l put one pint in to bring it up to full ....l have not found this in any other car l have had any out there finding the same issue
 
I haven't had to put any in mine, done just under 6k although I haven't checked in a few weeks so I'll go check now. I'm surprised that I haven't been using any at all though to be honest
 
Rich said:
Hi all l have just had to top up my oil for the first time it was on the low reading of the dip stick have done 8k seems to using oil for this mileage ...
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When are you due for an inspection? I have to see the dealership at 10k km. I would ask. I'm only at 4500km & no movement on the stick for me.

My 10 year old Mercedes E200 needs 2 liters between its 15k check ups.
 
Going in October for its first service 10k ....my wife 12 year old toyota verso thats done 120k doesn't use hardly any oil .......starting to think that i30n likes to drink petrol and well as oil !!!
 
Check your oil on a weekly basis is my advice.

I’d monitor this though,but I suppose it really depends on how the car has been driven for those 8k miles....
 
Just checked mine. Bang on in the middle (near 6k miles in).

Should I top it up?

I don’t know what type was put in the engine. Is it okay to mix different brands?
 
Mark46 said:
Good question, unfortunately there isn’t a straight forward answer.
I’ve had to dig out some old course work from when I was training to be a motorcycle technician to answer this, so bear with me.
C1 & C4 are low saps (sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulfur) oils while C2 and C3 are mid saps oils.
On the other hand C1 & C2 oils have lower HTHS (high temperature high shear) viscosities while C3 & C4 oils have higher HTHS viscosities.
So if you go for C1 over C2 then the only difference is lower saps.
If you go for C3 then that has a higher viscosity.
So when the manual states use ACEA C2 or above it’s not very clear what “above” means.
Personally I would go for the ACEA C2/0W-30 if that’s not available I would use the ACEA C1 for lower saps and keep the viscosity the same.
Don’t know if that answers your question but as you can see it’s not that straight forward.
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In a high-performance car, if "engine health" is your top priority (and not a fuel consumption and/or ecology) you definitely want an oil with a high HTHS, but it's just my humble opinion

Smth. like this maybe - https://www.mobil.com/english-au/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-1-0w40

I'd also look for an oil that already prooved itself in such cars like GTR, FRS, etc.

Btw, I wonder how introduction of GFP will affect recommendations on oils (inc. N cars)
 
RawZ05 said:
Just checked mine. Bang on in the middle (near 6k miles in).

Should I top it up?

I don’t know what type was put in the engine. Is it okay to mix different brands?
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I do not recommend mixing oils. Would you pour Shiraz into a beer and drink it? Me either.
Oils contain additive packages and have different viscosity ratings also. Get a litre of the same stuff that is already in the car and use this to keep it topped up. Did you check the dip stick on level ground and when the engine is at operating temp? Overfilling the oil is nearly as bad as low oil level. Especially in a car that has the ability to throw the oil about when carving those bends. ;)
 
Stash-N said:
I do not recommend mixing oils. Would you pour Shiraz into a beer and drink it? Me either.
Oils contain additive packages and have different viscosity ratings also. Get a litre of the same stuff that is already in the car and use this to keep it topped up. Did you check the dip stick on level ground and when the engine is at operating temp? Overfilling the oil is nearly as bad as low oil level. Especially in a car that has the ability to throw the oil about when carving those bends. ;)
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I know that's not exactly the same, but I always thought you should check oil level on cold engine... or at least like 15 minutes after running it, so the oil is all down in the pan? Why would you check oil level on operating temp?
 
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