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Brake pads

With the two persons method it is really simple: one pumping the pedal and the other cracking open the valve to get the oil out. The key is to not lift the foot from the pedal until the valve is closed and to keep topping up the reservoir, plenty of good vids on YT. Also important to use a good quality tube, I have the simplest kit from BGS and works great. I have now got their tube with non return valve so as to be able to do everything by myself. If you accidentally get some air into the caliper, just bleed some more


Absolutely not, I have done all of 2025 (20k+ km and 5-6 track days) and when I went to bleed the system there were barely any bubbles (but the oil was definitely a tiny bit darker than the fresh one, maybe because of some water starting to get mixed in?). This year I am trying to do it more often to chase the cause of the pedal going softish after consecutive push laps, but I’m getting convinced it is not the fluid or at least not an all out boiling issue (maybe air trapped in the ABS circuit or just an effect of having the whole caliper pretty damn hot and losing some stiffness)
Don't discount the pads swelling.
 
Yesterday I got to test my new setup at the track (video here).

I am very happy to share that the results surpassed my expectations, temperature measurement strips indicate that caliper temperature at most reached 166 Celsius (143C block fully changed color on both calipers, while the 166C block only had a partial color change on one caliper indicating that temperature barely reached the threshold or only for a very short time). Considering that last year I saw the 210C block changing color, this is a 30+C temperature reduction!

Most importantly the effect on the braking consistency was immense, for the first time I was able to brake at the same point lap after lap and having to back off only when ABS was starting to creep in due to tyre overheating. The difference was clear even simply standing next to the front wheels just after a session. I am quite relieved that I finally got this result, I don’t know which was the greater contributor among the discs and the new cooling, but I suspect that the discs played a big role!

As for the Project Mu, they were excellent: they were super easy to bed in (I got a nice pad material transfer on the discs with a minimal amount of repeated medium braking applications on the street), they have very good bite but have been absolutely quiet. When the brakes fully cooled down after the track day I had some vibrations, but nothing compared to the MX72+ and they have already almost completely disappeared (and again zero noise). Only minor complaint is that they wore down around 2mm after 75min of track time, which is a bit more than I hoped.

Perfection is still not there, the pedal was consistent but not rock hard (limit of the system? maybe worth trying Castrol SRF or Endless RF-650?). The guy who produced the discs recommended Endless ME22 for maximum durability, so at some point I may give them a try considering cost is roughly the same as PMU). But for the moment I enjoy this small victory and try not to kick myself for not having gone this route earlier 😅





 
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Yesterday I got to test my new setup at the track (video here).

I am very happy to share that the results surpassed my expectations, temperature measurement strips indicate that caliper temperature at most reached 166 Celsius (143C block fully changed color on both calipers, while the 166C block only had a partial color change on one caliper indicating that temperature barely reached the threshold or only for a very short time). Considering that last year I saw the 210C block changing color, this is a 30+C temperature reduction!

Most importantly the effect on the braking consistency was immense, for the first time I was able to brake at the same point lap after lap and having to back off only when ABS was starting to creep in due to tyre overheating. The difference was clear even simply standing next to the front wheels just after a session. I am quite relieved that I finally got this result, I don’t know which was the greater contributor among the discs and the new cooling, but I suspect that the discs played a big role!

As for the Project Mu, they were excellent: they were super easy to bed in (I got a nice pad material transfer on the discs with a minimal amount of repeated medium braking applications on the street), they have very good bite but have been absolutely quiet. When the brakes fully cooled down after the track day I had some vibrations, but nothing compared to the MX72+ and they have already almost completely disappeared (and again zero noise). Only minor complaint is that they wore down around 2mm after 75min of track time, which is a bit more than I hoped.

Perfection is still not there, the pedal was consistent but not rock hard (limit of the system? maybe worth trying Castrol SRF or Endless RF-650?). The guy who produced the discs recommended Endless ME22 for maximum durability, so at some point I may give them a try considering cost is roughly the same as PMU). But for the moment I enjoy this small victory and try not to kick myself for not having gone this route earlier 😅





Congratulations! That is indeed a great result. I also think the discs made most of the difference but don't understand how =) Do these discs have directional vanes, are they labeled rh and lh?

Your previous discs were oem correct? If so can you confirm which side has the correct internal vane orientation for cooling?

Hc+ were completely silent for me also but developed a bearable whistle after my first track day with them. I also noticed the accumulated brake dust also effects this. The cleaner it is the more consistently it will squeal when warmed up. Not a problem for me at all.

Meanwhile i decided to go ahead with the dust shield removal after seeing 210+ on my last track session. Got some heat shielding for the wire harnesses (laminated glass fiber fabric sleeve with velcro) non reflective though, i will apply some aluminum tape at the areas closer to the discs for reflection.

I've also successfully traced and transferred the pad backing plate shape to my cad program. I just need to decide on the final shape of the shim and scale to the actual dimensions. Will report back if i get to produce a shim. (Will produce some extra if i can find materials)

I don't think your brake fluid gets nearly as hot as before but a ti shim should further help with insulation. Good idea sticking a temperature strip back at the piston side. I might purchase lower temp stickers to track piston temps this way.
 
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Congratulations! That is indeed a great result. I also think the discs made most of the difference but don't understand how =) Do these discs have directional vanes, are they labeled rh and lh?
Correct
Your previous discs were oem correct? If so can you confirm which side has the correct internal vane orientation for cooling?
I had OEM, Zimmermann blanks and the last ones I used were Tarox F2000. None of these have directional vanes (they are purely radial). Tarox makes two-piece, machined, directionally-cooled discs, but they are significantly more expensive than what I paid mine (mine are surely casted, not machined, so will probably not last as long, but still...)
Hc+ were completely silent for me also but developed a bearable whistle after my first track day with them. I also noticed the accumulated brake dust also effects this. The cleaner it is the more consistently it will squeal when warmed up. Not a problem for me at all.
How much wear did you have?
Meanwhile i decided to go ahead with the dust shield removal after seeing 210+ on my last track session. Got some heat shielding for the wire harnesses (laminated glass fiber fabric sleeve with velcro) non reflective though, i will apply some aluminum tape at the areas closer to the discs for reflection.
Good idea about the tape!
I've also successfully traced and transferred the pad backing plate shape to my cad program. I just need to decide on the final shape of the shim and scale to the actual dimensions. Will report back if i get to produce a shim. (Will produce some extra if i can find materials)

I don't think your brake fluid gets nearly as hot as before but a ti shim should further help with insulation. Good idea sticking a temperature strip back at the piston side. I might purchase lower temp stickers to track piston temps this way.
Surely they help preserving the seals