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Engine Oil discussion thread

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i_twenty_N said:
Shell Helix Ultra AO-L 0w20 (API SN Plus)
Shell Helix Ultra SP 0w20 (API SP)
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Yes, exactly. API SP/Ilsac gf-6. This Hybrid called meets both.


ILSAC GF-6
GF-6 will replace the GF-5 category and is divided into two separate sub-categories:

GF-6A: Fully backward-compatible for older vehicles that previously used GF-5 oils.
GF-6B: Covers the new, lower-viscosity oil grade OW-16 and will NOT be backward-compatible in most cases (unless specified by the OEM).


API SP
SP is the API’s newest service category. ILSAC GF-6 applies to the fuel efficient viscosity grades, while API SP applies to those heavier viscosity grades like 10W40 and 20W50.

API SP will be fully backward-compatible with previous API service categories, including API SN PLUS, SN, SM, SL or SJ.
 
maslovdi said:
Personally, I’ve tended to stick with the manufacturer’s recommendation for viscosity, like 0w20, especially with the newer engines that rely on precise oil pressure to keep everything running right. I did consider going with 0w30 or even 5w30 since they can handle high temps better, but in the end, it felt safer sticking to what’s in the manual.
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I understand that you should always stick with the manufactures recommendations. The oil companies are massive and spend enormous sums of money on research and development and their scientists know exactly what they are doing and ae not just sticking their fingers in the air and thinking out loud.

If you have an engine failures the car manufacturer can analyse the oil and you may loose your warranty for using the wrong specification
 
Moosehill Garage said:
Yes, exactly. API SP/Ilsac gf-6. This Hybrid called meets both.


ILSAC GF-6
GF-6 will replace the GF-5 category and is divided into two separate sub-categories:

GF-6A: Fully backward-compatible for older vehicles that previously used GF-5 oils.
GF-6B: Covers the new, lower-viscosity oil grade OW-16 and will NOT be backward-compatible in most cases (unless specified by the OEM).


API SP
SP is the API’s newest service category. ILSAC GF-6 applies to the fuel efficient viscosity grades, while API SP applies to those heavier viscosity grades like 10W40 and 20W50.

API SP will be fully backward-compatible with previous API service categories, including API SN PLUS, SN, SM, SL or SJ.
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That is excellent , thanks. unfortunately Hyundai do not show the ACEA equivalent and my oil supplier isn't very helpful. My other car uses 0w-20 ACEA-C5 and I have to keep two lots of top up oil although I would imagine a few mils of different spec wouldn't matter, perhaps i'm paranoid!
 
Stace said:
That is excellent , thanks. unfortunately Hyundai do not show the ACEA equivalent and my oil supplier isn't very helpful. My other car uses 0w-20 ACEA-C5 and I have to keep two lots of top up oil although I would imagine a few mils of different spec wouldn't matter, perhaps i'm paranoid!
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ACEA C6 is the latest European standard. It has gone higher standard tests and has better LSPI protection. I'm pretty sure that you can top up your other car with better ACEA C6 oil. But I would use only same company oil as additives might be different.

Just ordered Amsoil SS 0w20 for my N, was suprised that found importer from Finland and also got discounts as I ordered 12 quarts (11,4 liters) 😃 enough for 2 oil changes + little bit extra for pouring fresh oil throught engine before placing the oil sump plug back.
 
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1000004071.png

I found an interesting little excerpt from Amsoil's description for their xxw-xx Signaure Series products, particularly the part I've highlighted, in which they state by using their lowest viscosity product, 0w-20, they "increased the severity of the test." This suggests that they believe the 0w-20 to be the "worst", at least for this test, and a higher viscosity oil would provide better wear protection by virtue of the higher viscosity alone, because the specs between the oils are otherwise identical. Interesting.
 
The thinner the oil is the more the LSPI comes into play, thats why the thinner oils need more anti LSPI additives. If you use good 5w40 oil or thicker LSPI won't happen.
 
I'm interested to hear from people who have used an oil other than the specified 0w-20 in their i20N. Please tell me what oil specifically, how long you have used it and what you feel the effects, if any, have been. Thanks.
 
Zealot said:
Which particular oil do you have in mind?
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It's still some way off but I used Penrite in the gearbox/diff oil change recently and that feels great. The oil was pretty black after 20,000km. I supplied the oil and a container for the old oil so I could check it and they only charged me $38 while it was being serviced.

How about Penrite ENVIRO+ GF-S 5W-30 (FULL SYN) matches the API SP and ILSAC GF-6A specs of the 0w-20.​

 
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I've been a Penrite man for a while. Used Penrite HPR-5 engine oil, ATF and diff fluid in my XR6 ute. This one you suggest could be a goer.
 
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Cardinalsin said:
It's still some way off but I used Penrite in the gearbox/diff oil change recently and that feels great. The oil was pretty black after 20,000km. I supplied the oil and a container for the old oil so I could check it and they only charged me $38 while it was being serviced.

How about Penrite ENVIRO+ GF-S 5W-30 (FULL SYN) matches the API SP and ILSAC GF-6A specs of the 0w-20.​

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Just curious but when should the gearbox oil be changed never had a car with a lsd before my car currently has 22000 miles on the clock any ideas? My car is a i20n.
Look forward to your reply.
 
The LSD has a separate oil from the gearbox. I changed mine at 10k miles and again at 40k miles. Opie oils do a motul 70W GL4 which is the one I've started using. First impression is very good.
 
petrolhead21 said:
Just curious but when should the gearbox oil be changed never had a car with a lsd before my car currently has 22000 miles on the clock any ideas? My car is a i20n.
Look forward to your reply.
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There have been reports of people changing the gearbox oil and finding it pretty filthy although the service schedule doesn't call for it to be changed. After that initial change it seems to stay clean, at least that's what's been reported so far.

The post below claiming the LSD oil is separate from the gearbox is the first time i've heard of that?
 
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Cardinalsin said:
There have been reports of people changing the gearbox oil and finding it pretty filthy although the srvice schedule doesn't call for it to be changed. After that initial change it seems to stay clean, at least that's what's been reported so far.

The post below claiming the LSD oil is separate from the gearbox is the first time i've heard of that?
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The Penrite product selector says the diff is combined with the transmission, so I guess that's right
 
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For I20N only:
Can somebody tell us the sizes of crusher Ring for gearbox drain and filling plug?
Is there a special process getting the correct amount of oil into the gearbox or just get the car levelled horizontal and filling up untill it flows out like in good old days?

Thank you
 
You can use the old washer without any issues, they are done up pretty tight, 60Nm - 80Nm, they aren't under pressure at all. Fill to level hole with the car horizontal.
 
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