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I'm running Pagid RSL29 on the rear too.
Front pad is an Endless NE39S. I'm fine with them, since my additional brake cooling kit was installed. The oem-discs doing their job too, if you change them quite often. But to be fair: The car is heavily modded and is always driven to the maximum on track.
When i picked up the car from the dealer (no mods until that day) i didn't realize fading or anything on a highway drive.
Are they any good for combined regular driving and occasional track use? I would like to upgrade my brakes at some point but I am afraid of loosing braking force on when and cold brakes. Are all of those upgrade pads/discs worse when cold?I'm running Pagid RSL29 on the rear too.
Front pad is an Endless NE39S. I'm fine with them, since my additional brake cooling kit was installed. The oem-discs doing their job too, if you change them quite often. But to be fair: The car is heavily modded and is always driven to the maximum on track.
When i picked up the car from the dealer (no mods until that day) i didn't realize fading or anything on a highway drive.
If you're afraid of loosing brake force when cold you should go with the NE39S. Their range is from 0-850 degrees. The Pagid RSL29 i had before at the front axle needed a little bit of heat. not much, but a good amount of braking before they bite good.
I use for track Pagid RSL29 in front with Tarox F2000 discs and it needs few laps to heat up but than they are very very good
I’ve tried googling that and got no rezultaty. What is the full name?
Endless N39S, sorry, combined the Endless ME22 with the N39S
Any info about additional stuff to mount Ferodo DS2500 (FDB5100 and FDB5099) ? Additional holders/springs/mounts ?
They are a direct fit. No need for additional stuff:
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I'm thinking about Zimmermann SPORT COAT Z with those Ferodo DS2500 (FDB5100 and FDB5099).
Is it a good choice for everyday driving or better for the city Zimmermann duo (discs and pads) ?
Is it a good choice for everyday driving or better for the city Zimmermann duo (discs and pads) ?
Great choice!
I run DS2500 daily. No drawbacks compared to OEM.
Any blank disc will do fine, I run EBC blanks
Today I watched closely at my brakes and I think it is too early to change them on incoming hyundai service in may.
I wanted to do all things together - change oil, fluids and wheels to summer set with brakes but here are the pictures:
Front wheel:
Rear wheel:
Brake pads are still really thick and brake discs have about max 1-2mm edges. Barely felt under the finger.
This year I will do standard brake control with cleaning and maybe next year or next service it will be time to change them.
I wanted to do all things together - change oil, fluids and wheels to summer set with brakes but here are the pictures:
Front wheel:
Rear wheel:
Brake pads are still really thick and brake discs have about max 1-2mm edges. Barely felt under the finger.
This year I will do standard brake control with cleaning and maybe next year or next service it will be time to change them.
If you're only driving at a normal road, maybe sometimes a little bit sporty, then the Ferodo DS Performance will be fine. The DS2500 is a little bit overkill then imho.
But you shouldn't have drawbacks from the DS2500.
Thats a fail over here for a WOF because it can be 1 year apart so the minimum pad remaining thickness is 3mm.
One of the problems with pads as they defiantly deteriorate with time. My last car you could laterally see the front brake performance dropping over time on the rolling road test.
One of the problems with pads as they defiantly deteriorate with time. My last car you could laterally see the front brake performance dropping over time on the rolling road test.
Not a good idea to run pads that low, transfers too much heat to the caliper and brake fluid.
I know; it wasn't deliberate. You can see that the inner and outer pads were worn to quite different degrees. That was soon after the alert screech started, so that warning method was not that effective.
Never had the pleasure of putting new pads on a new car after the first set has worn out.
Does the factory fit the squeal low pad indicator on the leading or trailing edge of the brake pad as you fit it ?
Do all the pads have the indictor or is it only the inside pads ?
Just curious because if you research it there is no clear answer and most pads its possible to fit in all different configurations. The instructions that come with the new pads can be in 10 different languages and tell you everything about what you already know and nothing about a leading or trailing indicator.
I suspect if the pads wear uneven its the LEADING edge that wears first and typically the inside pads wears out first.
The Toyota MR2 turbo was a terrible design on the rears, the pad was much smaller on the inside and so it wore out when you still had about 1/3 of the pad left on the outer. I totalled one set of rotors on it because it would catch you out every pad change.
The floating callipers are prone to more uneven pad wear than fixed callipers, simply because they can twist and still function. Its pretty unusual to pull pads of a floating calliper and NOT have slightly uneven pad wear.
Does the factory fit the squeal low pad indicator on the leading or trailing edge of the brake pad as you fit it ?
Do all the pads have the indictor or is it only the inside pads ?
Just curious because if you research it there is no clear answer and most pads its possible to fit in all different configurations. The instructions that come with the new pads can be in 10 different languages and tell you everything about what you already know and nothing about a leading or trailing indicator.
I suspect if the pads wear uneven its the LEADING edge that wears first and typically the inside pads wears out first.
The Toyota MR2 turbo was a terrible design on the rears, the pad was much smaller on the inside and so it wore out when you still had about 1/3 of the pad left on the outer. I totalled one set of rotors on it because it would catch you out every pad change.
The floating callipers are prone to more uneven pad wear than fixed callipers, simply because they can twist and still function. Its pretty unusual to pull pads of a floating calliper and NOT have slightly uneven pad wear.
Cheers mate, that's what I figured would be the best option to catch pad wear before the steel on steel occured.
To recall the worst rotor damage I have ever seen was in a Volvo workshop. They kept all the worst parts they have ever replaced on display.
First up was a cam belt just completely cracked but not broken.
Second was a plain no vented rear rotor where it had been run steel on steel for so long that the rotor wore right through nearer the centre and fell off so you had just a ring of steel not even connected. How the driver kept on driving while ignoring the sound of that is amazing.
I think that's probably where the term "2 piece floating brake rotor" came from LOL