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Do you´ve alrdy fitted them?
I also thought about Assetto Gara´s for everyday use...would like to see some Pictures on the car
I assume it is not a secret if it's googlable
http://extreme-tyres.com/en/
They have contact info for distributors around the world and an online store, but only on the Polish website...
but extracted from the distributers email address I also found for example their online store in Germany:
https://www.rtm-motorsportshop.de/
From a quick glance they carry retreaded tyres and those VR2s go for something like 110 EUR-ish/pc, but depending from the compund start as low as 60 (hard compound)....
Edit: Unless of course you meant the rims, not the tyres, and I just made an ass of myself
Google is your friend! Fear not to use it!
I paid around 800€ per set of wheels and 340€ per tyres. I´m still waiting the delivery of my N so I haven´t installed them yet. I will use that set on the track only.
Haha yeah i did mean rims not tyres. I used google but i found some absurd prices 500euro per rim which is quite alot thats why i askedI assume it is not a secret if it's googlable
http://extreme-tyres.com/en/
They have contact info for distributors around the world and an online store, but only on the Polish website...
but extracted from the distributers email address I also found for example their online store in Germany:
https://www.rtm-motorsportshop.de/
From a quick glance they carry retreaded tyres and those VR2s go for something like 110 EUR-ish/pc, but depending from the compund start as low as 60 (hard compound)....
Edit: Unless of course you meant the rims, not the tyres, and I just made an ass of myself
Google is your friend! Fear not to use it!
Amazed at how much they look like the OZ racing wheels.
Just ordered a set tonight. 8.8kg in 18x8.5 ET44
Bridgestone S001s as unfortunately the RE003s are only W rated....
Just ordered a set tonight. 8.8kg in 18x8.5 ET44
Bridgestone S001s as unfortunately the RE003s are only W rated....
Just did my second track day at Anglesey- what an amazing circuit and my first dry track day in this car.
Brakes were really powerful and only faded after 25 minutes of very hard driving but were fine after a cool down.
The tyres were grippy and very predictable but I think they are the wrong compound for track use. They screamed all the way around in pain and I’ve totally scrubbed the sidewall despite constantly setting the right pressures as they got hotter.
I will get some track tyres (probably Yokohama Advans) as my mate runs these on his 420hp Subaru and has done 5 track days with them - loads of grip, no tyre squeal and they seem to last ages.
I’ll go for 18 inch rims with these to keep the cost down and save the 19s and Pirelli’s for the road.
Brakes were really powerful and only faded after 25 minutes of very hard driving but were fine after a cool down.
The tyres were grippy and very predictable but I think they are the wrong compound for track use. They screamed all the way around in pain and I’ve totally scrubbed the sidewall despite constantly setting the right pressures as they got hotter.
I will get some track tyres (probably Yokohama Advans) as my mate runs these on his 420hp Subaru and has done 5 track days with them - loads of grip, no tyre squeal and they seem to last ages.
I’ll go for 18 inch rims with these to keep the cost down and save the 19s and Pirelli’s for the road.
Re the squeal, I had this on a roundabout at about 60% pace... haha.
I’m going 18” with some “motorsport tyres”
So, the RE003s are out! Only W rated... Damn cheap tyre, amazing grip, and my favourite tyre. And now the S001s are out also. Every review I have read says they are hard and noisy.
Looking at Michelins PS4 and PSS, Conti 6's, Advan V105, Bridgestone RE050, and P Zeros.
Any recommendations or warnings?
Looking at Michelins PS4 and PSS, Conti 6's, Advan V105, Bridgestone RE050, and P Zeros.
Any recommendations or warnings?
Correct, this page pretty well sums it up:
https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/car-guys-why-is-unsprung-weight-so-bad.897884/
I will tell you next week if my car feels very different.
Im using Michelin Cup 2 tyres under my wifes FWD Audi A3. Using car also on track and my god, those tyres have a grip. The only problem with those tyres on track is the fact that they heat up slower than most of "street legal" semy-slicks.
Flush as.....
SSR GTX01 18" * 8.5" ET44 Wheels are 5 mm further OUT on the inner rim, and 17mm further out on the outer rim. 17mm - 5mm = 12mm increased width. 8.8kg, so a reduction in rotational mass on each corner of about 4.7kg. A very good thing! See here:
http://hondaswap.com/threads/unsprung-weight-part-2.29058/
In particular: The use of light-weight alloys in wheels reduces rotational mass. This means that less energy will be required to accelerate the wheel. Given that each pound of rotational mass lost provides an equivalent performance gain as a 10 pound reduction in vehicle weight, the benefits of light alloy wheels on vehicle performance cannot be overlooked. For example: A reduction in the weight of the rim/tire assembly of 5lbs x 4 (all around the car) is equivalent to a 200lb weight reduction in vehicle weight (that's worth 0.200 in the 1/4 mile)
I have reduced my rotational mass by 4.5kg x 4 or 18kg, that's (according to the theory) equivalent to a weight saving of 180kgs (or nearly 400 lbs) from the "sprung" weight, like the chassis, interior, etc. It certainly feels a little more responsive, but no doubt, I want it to feel faster to justify my purchase. I knew I should have got a red car, they ALWAYS are faster!
I saw MPS Funjet had his wheels measured, and they machined his new wheels to ET43, so mine stick out 1mm less than his, but I do have 245/40 tyres, rather than 235/35.
As you can see in the picture, they are flush with the bodywork.
So by MY calculation (and don't take my word for it, have them measured..) if you are going aftermarket, and you want a flush fitting:
These are commonly available offsets....
8" ET38 absolute smallest offset 17mm more clearance inside, 17mm wider outside.
8" ET40 perfect 15mm more inside, 15mm wider outside (a couple of mm inside flush)
8" ET45 10mm more inside, 10 mm more outside, (5 mm inside of flush)
8" ET50 5 and 5, barely noticeable as compared to OEM wheels (a very safe fitting)
8.5" ET44 my fitment 5mm more inside, 17 mm wider outside.
8.5" ET49 same clearance inside, 12mm wider outside.
8.5" ET50 1mm less inside, 11mm wider outside. (I wouldn't think you want to lose any more clearance inside).
If I was recommending, I would try and get the RED offsets. If I could have got my wheels in ET49, I would have done so.
I doubt very much if you could get 9" wheels on the N, you would have to measure VERY carefully,
9" ET50 would give you 18mm wider outside, 1mm wider than mine, IMO the very maximum you can go without having the wheels protrude outside of the guards, but it would also give you 8mm LESS clearance on the inner rim, and I seriously doubt you have that much room.
I highly recommend the 18" downgrade. As you can see, the wheels don't look ridiculously small, the extra 2 - 2.5 cm of sidewall makes the ride a lot smoother. I couldn't use N mode before, because the hardest suspension setting had my teeth rattling, now it is still track firm, but much more compliant on bad roads (like every road in Qld). Although the P Zeros are supposedly good, I always felt like the sidewall collapsed a little on hard cornering, whereas the RE003s sidewall seems much firmer, it is a 97 XL load rating rather than a 91.
SSR GTX01 18" * 8.5" ET44 Wheels are 5 mm further OUT on the inner rim, and 17mm further out on the outer rim. 17mm - 5mm = 12mm increased width. 8.8kg, so a reduction in rotational mass on each corner of about 4.7kg. A very good thing! See here:
http://hondaswap.com/threads/unsprung-weight-part-2.29058/
In particular: The use of light-weight alloys in wheels reduces rotational mass. This means that less energy will be required to accelerate the wheel. Given that each pound of rotational mass lost provides an equivalent performance gain as a 10 pound reduction in vehicle weight, the benefits of light alloy wheels on vehicle performance cannot be overlooked. For example: A reduction in the weight of the rim/tire assembly of 5lbs x 4 (all around the car) is equivalent to a 200lb weight reduction in vehicle weight (that's worth 0.200 in the 1/4 mile)
I have reduced my rotational mass by 4.5kg x 4 or 18kg, that's (according to the theory) equivalent to a weight saving of 180kgs (or nearly 400 lbs) from the "sprung" weight, like the chassis, interior, etc. It certainly feels a little more responsive, but no doubt, I want it to feel faster to justify my purchase. I knew I should have got a red car, they ALWAYS are faster!
I saw MPS Funjet had his wheels measured, and they machined his new wheels to ET43, so mine stick out 1mm less than his, but I do have 245/40 tyres, rather than 235/35.
As you can see in the picture, they are flush with the bodywork.
So by MY calculation (and don't take my word for it, have them measured..) if you are going aftermarket, and you want a flush fitting:
These are commonly available offsets....
8" ET38 absolute smallest offset 17mm more clearance inside, 17mm wider outside.
8" ET40 perfect 15mm more inside, 15mm wider outside (a couple of mm inside flush)
8" ET45 10mm more inside, 10 mm more outside, (5 mm inside of flush)
8" ET50 5 and 5, barely noticeable as compared to OEM wheels (a very safe fitting)
8.5" ET44 my fitment 5mm more inside, 17 mm wider outside.
8.5" ET49 same clearance inside, 12mm wider outside.
8.5" ET50 1mm less inside, 11mm wider outside. (I wouldn't think you want to lose any more clearance inside).
If I was recommending, I would try and get the RED offsets. If I could have got my wheels in ET49, I would have done so.
I doubt very much if you could get 9" wheels on the N, you would have to measure VERY carefully,
9" ET50 would give you 18mm wider outside, 1mm wider than mine, IMO the very maximum you can go without having the wheels protrude outside of the guards, but it would also give you 8mm LESS clearance on the inner rim, and I seriously doubt you have that much room.
I highly recommend the 18" downgrade. As you can see, the wheels don't look ridiculously small, the extra 2 - 2.5 cm of sidewall makes the ride a lot smoother. I couldn't use N mode before, because the hardest suspension setting had my teeth rattling, now it is still track firm, but much more compliant on bad roads (like every road in Qld). Although the P Zeros are supposedly good, I always felt like the sidewall collapsed a little on hard cornering, whereas the RE003s sidewall seems much firmer, it is a 97 XL load rating rather than a 91.
Just don't tell my wife how much I spent on a brand new car this week......
I spoke to Hyundai, and running W's is no problem warranty wise, as long as I don't exceed 270kms per hour (lol).
I also spoke to my insurance company, and they also tell me that as long as the tyres are rated sufficiently for the car's capabilities, they don't have an issue, and they are providing me with an "exemption" letter, to put that in writing. But make sure YOUR insurance company also gives you written permission to run tyres of lower spec without affecting your insurance. Just in case.
To be brutally honest, I was so keen to get the wheels on the car, and the Pilot Sport 4's I was thinking of buying were not available off the shelf, I decided to go with the RE003s regardless, and if I couldn't use them on the road to keep them for track days.
Now the search begins for track wheels. They need to be as light or lighter than the SSRs, and definitely 18"
I have longed for a set of Spoon SW388's for such a long time now (a Honda fanboy still after many years), and they have started producing them again, for the Civic Type R. https://www.spoonsports.eu/news/sw388/ The only currently available size is 18 x 8.5 ET45 5 x114.3, so light, and so track worthy. I have enquired, but I KNOW they are going to be REALLY expensive... "no official price has been released. However, the post did say expect it cost in the 'mid/high $3000 US range' for a set" AU $5000, or thereabouts....
The next option is a set of Rays CE28n's or CE28sl's or TE37's. Just a case of finding the right size.
After a full day's driving on the 245/40/18s, let me tell you I feel like the car is transformed. Same acceleration, no axle tramp that the P-Zeros seemed to suffer from occasionally, and the ride is just smother, in every suspension setting. The sidewalls are taller, but no noticeable flex in the corners, and I drove up a 45 degree curb this afternoon (with my son watching very carefully), and NO curb rash was even close to happening. I am a very happy camper.
I have longed for a set of Spoon SW388's for such a long time now (a Honda fanboy still after many years), and they have started producing them again, for the Civic Type R. https://www.spoonsports.eu/news/sw388/ The only currently available size is 18 x 8.5 ET45 5 x114.3, so light, and so track worthy. I have enquired, but I KNOW they are going to be REALLY expensive... "no official price has been released. However, the post did say expect it cost in the 'mid/high $3000 US range' for a set" AU $5000, or thereabouts....
The next option is a set of Rays CE28n's or CE28sl's or TE37's. Just a case of finding the right size.
After a full day's driving on the 245/40/18s, let me tell you I feel like the car is transformed. Same acceleration, no axle tramp that the P-Zeros seemed to suffer from occasionally, and the ride is just smother, in every suspension setting. The sidewalls are taller, but no noticeable flex in the corners, and I drove up a 45 degree curb this afternoon (with my son watching very carefully), and NO curb rash was even close to happening. I am a very happy camper.