According to the handbook we probably should use 5W30 or 10W30 viscosity oil in Australia.
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First oil change
- Thread starter Gregi30n
- Start date
According to the handbook we probably should use 5W30 or 10W30 viscosity oil in Australia.
Since Australian temps would rarely go below -10degrees C (Victoria or NSW snowfields) you are probably correct given you use oil that meets the specs. I wonder how much the fuel economy is improved by using the 0W-30 oils in normal driving. Certainly if you were to track the car or give it plenty during an Australian heatwave you might consider the higher viscosity oils too if oil pressure became an issue.
I'll be doing my own service, at 1000km with factory filter using Shell HX8 5w-30 like that German guy whom tweeked the motor said to use.
I will take it to Hyundai where they can check what I did then stamp the book and be happy they didn't have to change the oil. But I'm qualified so I'm lucky, thank god for consumer Law.
I will take it to Hyundai where they can check what I did then stamp the book and be happy they didn't have to change the oil. But I'm qualified so I'm lucky, thank god for consumer Law.
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Do you have to have a service at 1000 km, that is not a requirement in the UK?
That oil is AJ-L, others have chosen AV-L, but I don't know what difference that makes.
Just put my registration in the Shell website and the 'recommendation' is Helix Ultra Professional AT-L 5W-30.
That oil is AJ-L, others have chosen AV-L, but I don't know what difference that makes.
Just put my registration in the Shell website and the 'recommendation' is Helix Ultra Professional AT-L 5W-30.
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Do you have to have a service at 1000 km, that is not a requirement in the UK?
That oil is AJ-L, others have chosen AV-L, but I don't know what difference that makes.
Just put my registration in the Shell website and the 'recommendation' is Helix Ultra Professional AT-L 5W-30.
Hyundai actually gives three options:
Shell Ultra C2/C3 0w-30
Shell Ultra 5w-30 AF-L
Shell HX8 5w-30
The Shell Ultra C2/C3 0w-30
ACEA C2 "Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 mPa*s."
ACEA C3 "Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s."
The AF-L 5w-30
"ACEA A1/B1 Category is removed with the ACEA 2016 Oil Sequences. From ACEA 2012: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. "
The HX8 5w-30 :
"ACEA A3/B3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & Diesel Engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of Low Viscosity Oils, and/or for severe operating conditions as defined by the Engine Manufacturer. " - from oilspec.org
I think you just convinced me to use the AF-L.
I have all of the above normally anyway.
..... I'm gonna call technical today and see what the boffins say. I shall report back
!!!! This is all wrong !!!! see my latest post
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The owners manual.
Shell is the recommended oil, they are the recommended spec in Shell oil.
As I said I'll call technical today and report back.
OK
THE CORRECT SPEC IS
Shell Ultra C2/C3 0w-30
Shell Ultra Professional AP-L 0w-30
Shell Ultra Professional AP-L 5w-30
The reason is low speed pre-igniton prevention which the latter two oils are specifically designed to prevent.
The Ultra C2/C3 0w-30 is fine but not specifically designed to this end.
Both the AP-L oils are only available in 209lt drums in Australia.
*update* I am currently trying to convince Shell to bring smaller sizes of the AP-L into the country there is a good chance I will be able to get 20lt drums in January, wish me luck.
Epilogies for the inconweenience.
THE CORRECT SPEC IS
Shell Ultra C2/C3 0w-30
Shell Ultra Professional AP-L 0w-30
Shell Ultra Professional AP-L 5w-30
The reason is low speed pre-igniton prevention which the latter two oils are specifically designed to prevent.
The Ultra C2/C3 0w-30 is fine but not specifically designed to this end.
Both the AP-L oils are only available in 209lt drums in Australia.
*update* I am currently trying to convince Shell to bring smaller sizes of the AP-L into the country there is a good chance I will be able to get 20lt drums in January, wish me luck.
Epilogies for the inconweenience.
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https://www.shell.com.au/motorists/...hell-helix-ultra-professional-ap-l-5w-30.html
It's produced from compressing natural gas!
It's produced from compressing natural gas!
Does anyone here know about Low Speed Pre-Ignition?
If you don't you should.
If you don't you should.
Selecting the correct gear for the conditions and not lugging the engine would help to avoid this also IMO. LSPI still seems to be mysterious from my short research on the subject. The fact that your lubricant can help with this is interesting.
You mention the Shell brand but my dealer uses Caltex.
HAVOLINE PRODS F SAE 0W-30 is what I am told they will use in the N.
Do you have any insight into this?
Does anyone know what the initial fill of oil is at time of manufacture?
You mention the Shell brand but my dealer uses Caltex.
HAVOLINE PRODS F SAE 0W-30 is what I am told they will use in the N.
Do you have any insight into this?
Does anyone know what the initial fill of oil is at time of manufacture?
I am using my N from spring to autumn, so in warm conditions. I´m using my car offten on race track and I´m driving my car most of time agressive. Also no longer trips.
It is the reason why I changed my oil on 1000km mileage and now after each 5000km.
I´m using OEM oil filter and that oil (oil + filter = 82€):
It is the reason why I changed my oil on 1000km mileage and now after each 5000km.
I´m using OEM oil filter and that oil (oil + filter = 82€):
Wtaf?! Seriously man, that is a joke. As @Stash-N (well-researched as always) posted on warranty issues, you won't void it if a qualified motor mechanic changes the oil and filter. Got a mate who is a mechanic? If not, get one at any garage to replace it. Buy a genuine filter and some decent approved 5W30 and drop it off to 'em with the car, get a written repair order/ invoice and you'll be sweet at half that price. Darwin Hyundai did mine for $81 charging for consumables only. They used Mobil Super 3000 XE in mine.Asked how much it was to change the oil and filter at my 1500km service and they quoted me $299 due to the car needing "special" oil.....
No mechanic friends but I don't trust anyone around here to do it though. Going to contact the second Hyundai dealer to see what they charge and use them if required.
Asked how much it was to change the oil and filter at my 1500km service and they quoted me $299 due to the car needing "special" oil.....
Is there another dealer you can try? That's just a blatant attempt at price gouging. My dealer charged $120 to change my oil/filter at the 1,500km service.
Asked how much it was to change the oil and filter at my 1500km service and they quoted me $299 due to the car needing "special" oil.....
$275 they quoted me for the special oil lol.
Stealerships committing daylight robbery.
Update: The aforementioned engine oil arrived at the dealership some 3 weeks after my initial enquiry to have the oil changed. While this was not ideal, I managed to book the car in at a time suitable for me and the oil and filter and drain plug gasket were all changed / checked and job done.
The service manager was very flexible with a time / day to carry this out and without any word from me regarding any earlier inconvenience I found I was not charged any labour whatsoever.
Result: $93.05 inc GST which covered the oil / filter / drain plug gasket.
This was a perfect result to my mind for both the dealer and myself.
Reynella Hyundai have a very happy i30N owner who is happy to broadcast this experience as seen here to anyone who cares to listen.
The customer (me) feels the dealer has met my expectations and needs in this case and will continue to patronise the dealership. Everyone WINS!
There is some research on how much money it takes to attract a new customer compared to how much it takes to retain an existing customer. The difference is significant without citing the research. Take into account advertising costs and time to attract the new customer versus maintaining the existing one. This is well known in industries that sell high value products that require on-going maintenance.
So this is a big thumbs up to Reynella Hyundai in South Australia. If you are a SA owner and require i30N service (or any Hyundai model really) I have no complaints. Tell them the owner of the MG i30N recommended them. They have only sold one MG so they will know who.
( I have not been asked or paid by Reynella Hyundai or Hyundai Australia to make any of the above statements and observations.)
I am disappointed by the outrageous charges some eastern states dealers appear to be charging for the same service however.
I am not trying to "rub it in" to those customers either. I am just stating my experience only.
Happy New Year to all N-cars.net members.
Received a quote of $211 for the second dealer which is better than the original 299 from where I bought it from.