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Engine Engine Oil Discussion

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SS1981 said:
As per the title really, what’s the general consensus on this?, obviously want to give the car the best start, dealer reckons it’ll be fine until 10k miles, hhmmmm?
Please delete if this is already covered and is just taking up room on the servers etc, cheers
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I did one at 6k and now another at 13.5k and now i think i will do them on 6-8k depending how i drive.
 
Has anyone tried an other C class of oil? ACEA-Cx (Hyundai recommends C2 or higher)

  • C1
    Stable, stay in grade oil for use in vehicles fitted with DPFs & TWCs and in high performance diesel and petrol engines requiring low friction, low viscosity and Low SAPS (Sulphated Ash <0.5%) oils, with a minimum HT/HS viscosity of 2.9 cP.
  • C2
    Stable, stay in grade oil for use in vehicles fitted with DPFs & TWCs and in high performance diesel and petrol engines requiring low friction, low viscosity and Mid SAPS (Sulphated Ash <0.8%) oils, with a minimum HT/HS viscosity of 2.9 cP.
  • C3
    Stable, stay in grade oil for use in vehicles fitted with DPFs & TWCs and in high performance diesel and petrol engines requiring low friction, low viscosity and Mid SAPS (Sulphated Ash < 0.8%) oils, with a minimum HT/HS viscosity of 3.5 cP. These oils may also meet A3/B4* and API SN
  • C4
    Stable, stay in grade oil similar to C1 but with tighter volatility limits, no lower limit on phosphorus and with a minimum HT/HS viscosity of 3.5 cP.
  • C5
    Stable, stay in grade oil similar to C2 and C3 but with a lower HT/HS viscosity of 2.6-2.9 cP.
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Afbeelding1-1-e1529585593411.png


Afbeelding2-e1529585065285.png


It seems high HTHS factor = good engine protection, lower fuel econony
low HTHS factor = bad engine protection, good fuel economy

An acea C3 or acea C4 oil would be better for our engines I guess
 
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Hey Guys!

Just wondering what Engine Oil people are Using except for the Stock Shell Helix Ultra.

Preferably 0w30 (and maybe some people with Track experience)

Cheers.
 
Mh I see, Sadly that Oil isnt allowed in terms of warranty (atleast in Germany) as it does not meet the specification of ACEA C2 or higher. Seems like good Oil tho.

Any other experiences?
 
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German manual says 0W-30 C2/C3, but if thats not available 5W-30 C2/C3 would also be allowed. So I guess its up to your dealer, if they fill in something else than 0W-30 C2/C3 and tell you its fine, its fine. If they tell you they'd only do it on your own risk, than its that way..
 
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I know this is the i30N subforum, but this thread seems to have the greatest wealth of oil discussion on the forum so far...

The Canadian Veloster N manual specifies 0w-30, API latest, ILSAC latest, or ACEA C2. It also "recommends" Quaker State oils, which is funny because Quaker State doesn't seem to offer any 0w-30 oils or ACEA spec oils of any class.

After reading up on ACEA spec definitions and seeing similar plots to what jeroenvde has posted above, I decided on Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0w-30. I track my car but also get 4 months per year below zero temps...and this oil has nice viscosity index (204) and "exceeds" ACEA C2/C3.

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/prod...ro_LX_SAE_0W-30_Fully_Synthetic_Motor_Oil.pdf

There's a few mentions on BITOG that this oil is the same as the Shell Helix Ultra 0w-30, which a number of i30N owners seem to be using. The specs and other descriptions on the datasheet for the Shell stuff certainly does match up with the Pennzoil datasheet lol:

https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-GB/b19fec4b-ea24-45c2-a15d-3093383547b5.pdf

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4708138/1

Someone running the Shell stuff in their 600k kms Saab turbo has a few UOAs here:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4612375/Shell_Helix_Ultra_0w-30_AV-L,_

For Canadians out there, this stuff is available at Canadian Tire and periodically goes on sale, though I've seen it out of stock a few times.
 
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MOTUL - 8100 ECO-NERGY 5W30 ENGINE OIL

100% SyntheticProduct
Viscosity: 5w30
ACEA Standards:ACEA A5/B5API
Standards:API SL/CF
 
Ravenol dxg is going to be my first synthetic change. ht/hs is not the highest but with 3750 mile intervals until I get a better understanding of lspi in di turbo motors I'm sticking to the best dexos 1 gen2 sn+ I can find.
 
RameusJH said:
There's a few mentions on BITOG that this oil is the same as the Shell Helix Ultra 0w-30, which a number of i30N owners seem to be using.
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Because the helix is what Hyundai suggests in their manual at least for europe ;)
In my manual there is also a diagram (see attachment) which lists the temperature working range for several oils according to which you should choose your oil in case the recommended oil is not available in your area.
 

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Well, I can't find oil that is good for track use, shell is over 130C, before I use Motul 300V 5W-30 but my dealer don't allow it, and Motul don*t have 300V 0W-30. Always in all my turbo cars was Motul 300V and I was very happy with that oil.
Any suggestions
 
I have just had my 20000mile service and have noticed when i got home that the oil on the invoice was shell 5W/30 but compared to my 1st service at 10000miles that shows shell 0W/30 will the oil used this time round be ok?
 
without said:
Because the helix is what Hyundai suggests in their manual at least for europe ;)
In my manual there is also a diagram (see attachment) which lists the temperature working range for several oils according to which you should choose your oil in case the recommended oil is not available in your area.
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Well that makes sense then, doesn't it! We have that oil grade vs temperature chart as well, but even within the world of 0/5W-30/40 there is still a lot of choice and a lot of difference between those choices.

Based on the definition of HTHS, it would at first sound that higher is better as far as wear or engine protection is concerned. Further reading on BITOG does not necessarily support that though, as it really depends on what your engine has been designed to use. Since our manual lists ACEA C2, and the Pennzoil Euro LX is listed as C2/C3, I'm comfortable with my choice for now.

Similar to @dacho, I've been seeing fairly high oil temps on track (125-130C). I would hesitate to run Motul 300V because it's designed for racing and therefore not with oil change intervals in the thousands of kms in mind. Haven't seen any data on that though so who knows, maybe its fine. I think the only way to be confident on track is to run an oil cooler (meaning air-oil heat exchanger, not the stock coolant-oil one). Haven't seen any for our application yet. Are there any available for other Theta engines?

Speaking of OCIs, our Canadian OCI is 6000km.
 
Soon I will reach 2000km and would like to change oil and filter by myself before track day. Will use OEM filter and same oil as it came from factory, only concern is warranty, is there any way that dealer can tell that oil has been change before them?
 
Changing oil more frequently, will not void a warranty. However, not changing the oil @ 8000km or 5K miles is not good for the engine and not in accordance with established Hyundai service intervals.

Do so as often as you are able or can afford. Normally, 3K miles or 5000km is the established interval.
 
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