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Engine Engine Oil Discussion

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If you wish to follow it to the letter, just use lots of engine braking, with occasional hard/full throttle bursts. 3,000 RPM limit for the first 600 miles is ridiculous, though. Note it doesn’t say anything about not using full throttle, so you have some leeway. “Do not race the engine” is rather vague and subjective. Definitely agree with varying RPMs and not using LC.

What’s funny is I saw a post on IG where a VN in a Canadian dealership was being revved to redline by a sales rep to show off the pops. o_O

It’s very important to get the factory oil, assembly lube and initial metal debris out of the oiling system early. Ideally within the first 30-50 miles and again by 500-1000 miles. Nothing in the manual says you can’t do this.

If H was actually serious about the 3000 RPM limit, they’d devise tables within the ECM that enforce it until the 600-mile threshold is reached. Since they don’t, it’s not something to really be concerned about.

Also note that nowhere does it say that not following their break-in process will result in warranty denial.
 
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Nomad17 said:
Sounds like we need a medium to high octane fuel with sufficient detergents. Possibly a catch can type device, with low oil change intervals (probably most important) on a possibly higher grade of oil than required. Shortest amount of time spent letting the engine warm up without running it hard prior to reaching operating temperature and (at a minimum) weekly extended mile trips to get everything fully up to temp (if you normally have short trips).
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Pretty much, except for the higher grade of oil, which I assume you mean higher viscosity. That is a myth. Higher viscosity does not mean more protection. Lower viscosity oil provides more flow and warms up more quickly. Wear resistance is mainly due to the chemicals within the oil as part of their additive packs.

Use the 540RAT oil blog to get an idea of lower viscosity oils with high wear resistance. Yes, it’s not organized very well, is one huge monolithic document and some of the results data are outdated (since oil companies change their formulas (additive packs) often and without notice), but there are very good nuggets of information sprinkled throughout.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com

Look at virgin oil analysis (VOA) and used oil analysis (UOA) results on BITOG.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/category/5/oil-analysis-reports
 
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I guess for safety reasons they couldn't limit the ecu to 3000 rpm for break in but i do like the limit imposed during warmup.

I've read a few posts with people commenting the engine feels noticeably stronger after passing the 1000km mark. Like any engine I would expect it to be stronger over a period like this but based on their reaction I was curious if the ecu were more conservative for break in.

Somebody suggested a higher viscosity when fuel dilution was a problem but I think it was because they stated the dilution effectively lowered the viscosity of our oil. I've not really dealt with this issue before, never had a DI or turbo so scrambling to get up to speed on info before my car arrives.
 
I'm coming up to 1000km's. I'll be doing an oil change at Hyundai in the next 500km's or so.

They can't limit the RPM otherwise you could die when needing to get out of a trucks way on the highway. Would not look good for Hyundai lol

I have varied the revs and kept it under 3K RPM for the most part. 'Racing the engine' would be flat to the floor through the gears. Since the manual says to keep below 3K RPM I'd say Hyundai's version of 'racing' is hard acceleration above 3K.
 
:p “for the most part.” :p

Sure they can and do limit the engine to 3000 RPM under various conditions. It’s called limp mode.

The more you talk, the more you reinforce my points. Owner’s manual break-in process is a set of recommendations and not requirements for warranty consideration. Period.
 
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Nomad17 said:
I guess for safety reasons they couldn't limit the ecu to 3000 rpm for break in but i do like the limit imposed during warmup.

I've read a few posts with people commenting the engine feels noticeably stronger after passing the 1000km mark. Like any engine I would expect it to be stronger over a period like this but based on their reaction I was curious if the ecu were more conservative for break in.

Somebody suggested a higher viscosity when fuel dilution was a problem but I think it was because they stated the dilution effectively lowered the viscosity of our oil. I've not really dealt with this issue before, never had a DI or turbo so scrambling to get up to speed on info before my car arrives.
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If fuel dilution is severe enough, sure, which is why reducing blow-by from a harder initial break-in makes running a higher viscosity not necessary.

Can’t really say too much more without repeating myself, other than pay attention to NOACK (volatility) results and try to use oils that are under 10% (less is better). Many oil manufacturers do not report the results from this important test in their specifications info summary.
 
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Cygnus X-1 said:
If fuel dilution is severe enough, sure, which is why reducing blow-by from a harder initial break-in makes running a higher viscosity not necessary.
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Maybe Hyundai has considered the fuel dilution caused by their recommended running-in procedure and selected an appropriate oil viscosity on that basis. Maybe it's your engine that will get overstressed and fail because you've done hard break-in and reduced the fuel dilution leading to thicker oil :D:D
 
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Cygnus X-1 said:
:p “for the most part.” :p

Sure they can and do limit the engine to 3000 RPM under various conditions. It’s called limp mode.

The more you talk, the more you reinforce my points. Owner’s manual break-in process is a set of recommendations and not requirements for warranty consideration. Period.
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It doesn't make a difference whether Hyundai will honour the warranty or not if you don't adhere to the recommendations but since it states driving to these recommendations will improve the economy, life and performance of your vehicle you'd have to be an idiot to ignore them in favour for what people tell you on the internet. Especially if they've wacked a great big sticker about breaking in your car on your gear knob.

Hyundai are already having bad track records of not honouring warranties for the I30N's so I'd recommend people to stick with what almost every car manufacturer recommends which is pretty much identical to what's written on that placard.
 
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Not just the i30Ns, either. Been that way for years. All about finding an excellent dealer if you want to play the warranty game.
 
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speedking said:
Maybe Hyundai has considered the fuel dilution caused by their recommended running-in procedure and selected an appropriate oil viscosity on that basis. Maybe it's your engine that will get overstressed and fail because you've done hard break-in and reduced the fuel dilution leading to thicker oil :D:D
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Noooo, don't tell him that. :eek::eek::eek:
 
If I recall correctly, it should be 0w30. However you can look all of that up in the manual or just look under the hood, it should also say it somewhere in there.
 
My dealer put Castrol 0w-30 in it at 6k kms... i will be doing a service soon, i think i'll ask him to get the shell helix ultra 0w-30 this time for me... because the castrol i have a feeling is worse on the high end when pushing the car trough twists and turns... just my feeling tho i have no clue how they compare.
 
As per the title really, what’s the general consensus on this?, obviously want to give the car the best start, dealer reckons it’ll be fine until 10k miles, hhmmmm?
Please delete if this is already covered and is just taking up room on the servers etc, cheers
 
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Use search function and key phrases such as 'oil changes' or 'service intervals' - there is a plethora of info on this subject on this forum.

There are also relevant sub forums e.g https://n-cars.net/forums/forums/i30-n-engine-gearbox-tuning.17/. Have a play, learn how to navigate the site and you will likely find the info you are after. And don't restrict yourself to the i30N stuff, the Veloster has the same driveline and those Yanks, Canucks and Koreans are mad tuners. Go nuts!
 
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SS1981 said:
As per the title really, what’s the general consensus on this?, obviously want to give the car the best start, dealer reckons it’ll be fine until 10k miles, hhmmmm?
Please delete if this is already covered and is just taking up room on the servers etc, cheers
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I did mine at 1000 miles, shell helix 0/30 fully synthetic. Genuine oil filter as well.
 
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