How-To: Adjust gear change cables correctly

[Dzhedaj]

Sorry, actually named the tool wrong, it's a 5mm star key, so the shaft is round and 5mm in diameter.
The 5mm allen key is 5.7mm across edge to edge.

 

[Jajodu]

That explains it. Thanks.

 

[Kchar]

If you are unsure on how to adjust the short shifter maybe send Forge a message with some pics of your settings?

In my case they have been extremely helpful in optimizing the settings on the short shifter!

Would you mind sharing those?

 

[Jajodu]

I've just added another pdf to post #1 that explains in more detail the method of adjustment the Hyundai way. It's called gear control cable repair1.pdf.

 

[R Veloster N]

Just gets better!! @Jajodu, thank you for posting the update.

 

[tibwrcsbj]

How would one go about locking the shifter in place if it's non-standard? I have a N-line, and swapped out the stock shaft for one for a Elantra, that does not have the rear "hook". Would just securing it extra tightly in 4th with a bungi cord work? The first post looks very similar to what Hyundai recommends for the 1.6T adjustment.
Also, how does one release the pink part? Does it slide or does it need to be pried up with a small screw driver, like a eyeglass repair kit would have?

 

[Jajodu]

How would one go about locking the shifter in place if it's non-standard? I have a N-line, and swapped out the stock shaft for one for a Elantra, that does not have the rear "hook". Would just securing it extra tightly in 4th with a bungi cord work? The first post looks very similar to what Hyundai recommends for the 1.6T adjustment.
Also, how does one release the pink part? Does it slide or does it need to be pried up with a small screw driver, like a eyeglass repair kit would have?

Can't comment on the shaft but the pink lock is released by feeling around it for a gap, then press inwards with your finger. It will then pop up away from the grooves.
Edit, why not reinstall the original, then adjust, then put back the other one.

 

[Pavlosev]

Hello guys! Hello @Jajodu !
I had problem only with the 6th gear and the mechanic adjusted on Friday the cables as you explain on your first post (thank you for this!!). It was (almost) perfect until today, that the issue came back, but not in the same level (smoother than before, at least for now).
Do you think it needs more adjustments? I am considering of changing the oil too, with a better one.

 

[Jajodu]

I used Red Line MTLV in my gearbox. It meets manufacturers specs. I don't notice my gear change now. You can get it from Opie Oils.
Can't comment on the gear change problem into sixth gear, it's worth checking the adjustment again, doesn't take long.

 

[red dutch]

Maybe not correct to be asked in this topic, but is this kind of info available for the e-lsd?

Still nothing from my dealer, i think myself the pressure sensor is the fault.
If you look for drawings on the net of our e-diff you'll see it is all mechanical, the only electric parts are
the pressure sensor and the electric hydraulic pump.
As stated in some topic "air bubbles in oil" makes no sense.
I may hope that these extra outside lsd's will have a automatic air relieve valve.

(to mod's, if wrong topic please repost or copy to it)

 

[Jajodu]

Maybe not correct to be asked in this topic, but is this kind of info available for the e-lsd?

Still nothing from my dealer, i think myself the pressure sensor is the fault.
If you look for drawings on the net of our e-diff you'll see it is all mechanical, the only electric parts are
the pressure sensor and the electric hydraulic pump.
As stated in some topic "air bubbles in oil" makes no sense.
I may hope that these extra outside lsd's will have a automatic air relieve valve.

(to mod's, if wrong topic please repost or copy to it)

My Launch X431v+ has an option for bleeding the LSD, so it does appear to be required. Here's some info on that component.

 

[red dutch]

Well that's some info!, Thanx!

To bad that there is no info/advice which parts to replace,only the complete unit.

Like in the first post there is mentioning the fault, and the explanation to solve it.

 

[Jajodu]

Well that's some info!, Thanx!

To bad that there is no info/advice which parts to replace,only the complete unit.

Like in the first post there is mentioning the fault, and the explanation to solve it.

If you go to PartSouq and put your VIN in you can see a complete parts diagram of your car.

 

[r_anderson96]

I used Red Line MTLV in my gearbox. It meets manufacturers specs. I don't notice my gear change now. You can get it from Opie Oils.
Can't comment on the gear change problem into sixth gear, it's worth checking the adjustment again, doesn't take long.

Going to be doing a gearbox oil change myself, will one quart be enough? Cheers.

 

[Jajodu]

Going to be doing a gearbox oil change myself, will one quart be enough? Cheers.

2 quarts is needed.

 

[r_anderson96]

2 quarts is needed.

Thanks buddy. Will order some tonight.

 

[calinosu]

The gearchange in the I30N is very sensitive to cable adjustment, Here is the method to use if you're experiencing
notchy or difficult changes.

You need to access both ends of the cables and to do this you will need 10mm and 12mm sockets and extensions, along with a ratchet.

Remove the battery, disconnect the -ve lead first, put an old glove or sock over it to prevent it dropping forward and touching the battery and also to stop it damaging the paintwork.

Then remove the positive lead, once done use the 12mm socket and extension to loosen and remove the clamp holding the front of the battery.
Slide the battery a few mm forward and lift out of the car using the handles, take care here as it's pretty heavy.

Next pull up the cable retainers on the ECU and move out of the way, using a 10mm socket remove 3 bolts and the cable clip on the connection to the inner wing, lift the ECU away, put it somewhere safe and don't tread on it!

Next remove the battery tray, it's 3 x 12mm bolts and one 10mm holding the airbox to the tray, there's also 2 x 10mm bolts holding the +ve battery harness.
Tip the tray to one side to allow the battery harness retainers to slide out of the tray.

Now you can see the gearchange cable ends. The one nearest the front of the car is the selector (side to side) actuator, the other one is the shifter (forward and back) actuator.

Now head inside the car and remove the gearchange gaiter, it's clipped in around the edges, 2 clips per side so 8 in all.Just choose a side ang dig you fingers in to the gaiter and move towards the middle.
If you can pull off the gearknob you're much stronger than me as I couldn't move it.

You should now see the base of the gearlever, next you need to get the surround with the buttons for the heated seats etc out of the way. It's held in by 4 push in clips, just lift from the rear and it will pop up.

You should now have enough room for the next steps. For this you will need a 4.5mm drill bit or a bit of rod as well as a 4mm allen key.
I wrapped both in some heatshrink to enlarge them so that they fitted really snugly into the gear mechanism.

Put the car in 4th gear, use the drill bit to slide into the locating holes either side of the gearstick and through the hole at the base of the stick itself.
That's now locked the shifter mechanism, if you look down to the LHS of the gearstick you will see the selector actuator, there's a hole in it which lines up with a hole in the side of the gearshift mechanism, use the short part of the allen key L and push it through those holes, the selector is now fixed in position.

Head back to the engine bay and and slide the spring on the cable end towards the eye of the cable, you will see a pink retainer clip, feel the other side of this clip and push it so that it releases from the cable teeth, this allows the cable eye to loosen and settle in the correct position, push the clip back in and allow the spring to return to it's original position, do exactly the same with the other cable. That's the adjustment carried out.

Another method would be to do this..
You can also pull the R clip out of the cable end and lift the eye off the pin, release the pink clip so that the eye is free and whilst it is still free drop it back onto the pin, lock it in position. Repeat for the other cable, you're now all adjusted.


Remove the drill bit and allen key from the gearstick and press the clutch and try the changes.

This is the Hyundai recommended method of adjusting the cables and all new gearshift mechanisms come with a tool to do exactly that, I've just substituted this tool with a drill bit and an allen key.

It cured all of the notchiness I had going into 2nd, 4th and 6th gear and I think is particularly relevant to cars outside the VIN range that had faulty 5/6 synchros.

I've attached the service bulletin about faulty syncromesh on early vehicles as well as pictures of the method I used to align the cables.

To summarise, the only method to adjust the cables correctly is to place both gearstick and transmission in 4th gear, lock the gearstick to prevent movement
and then free off the adjusters to allow them to settle into the new position and then lock them in that place.

Hello and thanks very much for this post. I can't seem to get the gearchange gaiter. Should I remove the knob first? How do I remove the gaiter? By pulling it out? Thanks!

 

[Jajodu]

Knob first, it pulls off upwards but it's very tight. I knelt on both front seats straddling the gear lever, grab with both hands and pull upwards. Once off you can unclip the gaiter, there's about 8 clips, just grab at the edge and pull away from the edge towards the centre.

 

[calinosu]

Knob first, it pulls off upwards but it's very tight. I knelt on both front seats straddling the gear lever, grab with both hands and pull upwards. Once off you can unclip the gaiter, there's about 8 clips, just grab at the edge and pull away from the edge towards the centre.

I managed to do the adjustment today. Prettt easy job, but I can't feel any difference. For me it was just the gear change feel that was a bit notchy, but I think I need to change the trans oil in order to feel a significant change. One question about the pink clip: was it supposed to come out completly? Or just pulled out and put back again (as I did)? Thanks again!

 

[Jajodu]

With the cable removed from the gearbox linkage, popping off the pink clip allows free movement of the end of the cable, it doesn't pop completely off , just releases itself from the adjustment thread

I also changed the gearbox oil at the same time.