Air Filter & Intake Discussion

[kamyk155]

Ok guys - big question for all.
First of all - I'm thinking about full swap of air intake - as few of You know I just ordered and have - forge intercooler and velossa tech big mouth. Now I'm thinking about two things - turbo inlet and bigger pipe from oem box to turbo or Afe Takeda - new box with filter and pipe.
Now the question:
What about water going inside the filter box ?
First of all - Velossa Tech answer - Rain or snow do not adversely affect the engine once a BIG MOUTH is installed - Yeah it can be true. Why - because velossa duct going from lower part up, and then it is connected with second hyundai oem duct going down from upper part to the filter box from below. Then filter is taking the cold air to the turbo. Is that correct ? I think it is.
Now another question - Afe Takeda box with the filter:
If there will be Velossa Tech in front - cold air will be going like before from lower part of the car to upper part and then.....there will be no hyundai oem second duct so air and WATER will go directly on the filter inside filter box.
I'm really afraid of this. I can be wrong - I don't know - someone can answer ?
I really like how Afe Takeda looks because it is closed box with almost double the size inlet of air duct.
In oem filter box we can see that hole for the cold air narrows almost twice when entering the box.
Any sugestions ?

PS sorry for my not too perfect english but I think you guys will understand everything.

 

[TarmoT]

I also went to hdt-motorsport pipe. If miracles will happen and I will manage to receive aFe intake and hdt turbo pipe, I will let you know how to use them together.
Regarding water - you must be inside of 40cm water when there will be too much water coming to air box. Some water inside of air box will do nothing for turbo cars. If you are looking how meth injection works, you will understand.

 

[kamyk155]

TarmoT - I'm thinking about fast driving in the heavy rain or big splash of the water on the road with high speed not typical "car diving" in the water

 

[kamyk155]

My question is more targeted to possibility splashing and getting the filter wet.

 

[TarmoT]

If you are so worried and can’t be satisfied with answer I gave you, keep your stock intake and give your Veloosa Tech someone who does not care about “water inside of air box” subject.

 

[kamyk155]

Don't worry - I will wait for yours Afe Takeda informations.

 

[R Veloster N]

Hydrolocking a cylinder/s is nearly impossible with a stock or modified closed airbox. As @TamoT has stated; it's not a problem, with or without the addition of the Velossa Tech Snorkel.

Even if you were behind someone who was slashing up water, you're not going to ingest enough water to make any difference one way or another. Otherwise, as @TarmoT has stated (40 cms) you'd need to have the airbox full of water and another 15CM on top of that coming in the box.

Have you ever submerged any car, at any time? Then it's not going to happen. Hakuna Matata/(hɑˈkunɑ mɑˈtɑtɑ)/"no problems" relax!

 

[kamyk155]

Two well known from tuning persons telling me to relax so no more questions about water
One more question about intake if I can - any pros from bigger air intake in takeda box compared to oem ? Directly full size intake compared to oem twice smaller from bottom ?
Takeda looks exactly like velossa tech - same dimenssions I think ?
I'm asking because I want to buy bigger pipe and turbo inlet or afe takeda whole intake (if it will be availible) plus turbo inlet.

 

[TarmoT]

Bigger does not mean always better Factory intake is very good and there are not remarkable gains of power with any aftermarket intake. I have dyno tested open cone solution and germans have been dyno testing Gruppenzwang turbo inlet adaptor + hard pipe combo. Not more than +1 bhp. Sealed box + Velossa combo gives you some temperature related benefits than open cone solutions so I will recommend to use sealed box intake system.

 

[Felix]

I'm still not sure whether an aftermarket intake/inlet makes sense to me or not. As @TarmoT stated (

) the Gruppenzwang parts don't make any sense, without software changes. But even in the video they said that might change with proper remap. Therefore my question: has someone ever tested and compared performance after remapping and performance after remapping + inlet/intake?

 

[TarmoT]

That open cone intake system was tested by me without remap and with remap. Remap changed nothing at all because car just does not need more air. Oem filter and air box will work perfect until 420 bhp. My 380bhp run was also done by using Oem filter and air box.
The only benefit I can see here is just having cooler IAT-s. Cooler IAT-s will push (even remaped ECU) to adjust ignition timing. With colder ambient temps and IAT-s my ECU changed ignition timing even 2-degrees.

 

[Felix]

Thanks, @TarmoT! Although those aftermarket pipes look fancier, I don't want to waste 500 € just for the looks.

 

[TarmoT]

Thanks, @TarmoT! Although those aftermarket pipes look fancier, I don't want to waste 500 € just for the looks.

Most of cases (cars) aftermarket intakes are working but it looks like Hyundai engineers managed to make pretty good intake.
Btw - not just for how it looks but most people will buy aftermarket intakes because of sound

 

[c4bl3]

I'm still trying to get aFe intake for a reasonable price :/
But damn those taxes and shipping to Europe.
I would pay almost 600€ for that part although the value is only about 320€ -.-

 

[kamyk155]

Same problem here with tax and shipping.
Price almost doubled.

 

[R Veloster N]

Keep in mind the N-Performance Intake is; the aFe Takeda Intake, made for Hyundai N- Performance.

Once the intake is released, there will be more retailers. Be patient you'll have access to it.

 

[c4bl3]

Keep in mind the N-Performance Intake is; the aFe Takeda Intake, made for Hyundai N- Performance.

But in the picture for the N you only see the aFe Takeda box. Not the tube. You sure this will come with bigger tube when released from Hyundai N-Performance?

 

[R Veloster N]

That's correct.

This is the actual photo from taken from the N-Performance Mall. as posted here;
http://product.nperformancemall.com/product/category/category_main?pcid=3557&rootid=3556

https://n-cars.net/forums/threads/veloster-n-performance-parts.4483/page-2#post-78364

 

[biggeley]

I posted this over in the veloster N side, but should apply here as well. I can see with the JB4 tuner that the stock airbox setup is a restriction at 20 lbs of boost at higher RPMs.. See graph below comparing my ability to hold boost at higher RPMs between stock arrangement and stock airbox with the lid off. This is with a completely stock car except with a JB4 tuner, a stock filter, and 4k miles. With the airbox lid off I can hold 20 psi to 5800 rpms, where it is only 5200 rpms with the airbox lid on. The difference after 5500 rpms is 1.5-2psi or so. I generally don't run it out past 6300 rpms however..

Note that this not mean the stock airbox is incapable of making more power, but in a situation where the stock turbo is maxed out either due to its capacity or by duty cycle limits within the wastegate controller, removing restriction in the pre-turbo side does allow one to run slightly higher boost in the higher RPMs. The seat of the pants meter tells me that the "pull" feels more consistent in the 5500-6300 rpm range, with less drop-off.


I've been suspect of that little duct that feeds the airbox is a restriction. The Kia Stinger / Genesis G70 have that issue as well, and switching to aftermarket induction is good for another 20-30HP on that platform. The Airtec pic shows where the stock airbox is pulling air from in the bottom/middle of the image -- it's not even a clear opening but has support web partially blocking the opening. Any intake pulling through that area is going to be limited at that choke point...

 

[c4bl3]

So only can get the box and try to fit with another aftermarket tube.