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How To: Install a Light Bar (mounted above number plate)

Corsa59

Well-Known Member
Nthusiast
Jan 19, 2018
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I do a bit of night driving, and as you are all aware, the lights on the N are not the best. I was looking for some form of driving light/s that would provide better light, without detracting too much from the look of the front of the car.

I was talking to a guy in the petrol station the other day. He had a light bar (LB) on his Hyundai Sonata, a very neat install, sitting just above the number plate, and I asked him where he bought it. He told me he worked for the company that makes them, and I could buy one from a truck supply store near where I lived.

What I really liked about the LB bar was the way it mounted. The bar comes with an license plate bracket included. It is a very solid bracket:

bracket.png
This means you attach the LB to the bracket, then remove your front number plate, then slip the bracket in between the number plate and the bumper bar, reattach the number plate (I used tamperproof screws, so it can't be easily removed), and the bracket becomes invisible, and the light bar looks like this:

(Ignore the fact my LB looks like I have joined the Fuzz, it is NOT blue, it is clear, the blue is the protective tape over the new polycarbonate lens, which has now been removed)

IMG_6873.jpg

IMG_6874.jpg

The LB is a Narva (Model 72273), made from one piece aluminium and a polycarbonate lens, and seems exceptionally well made, solid, and very water-proof. It cost me $154.64 including GST.

The LB does NOT come with an installation kit or wiring harness. If you want, you can take your car (with light already installed onto bumper) into any auto-electricians, and he will wire it in, and make sure it complies with your local laws regarding auxiliary lights. In Queensland, driving lights must be linked to the high-low dip switch, and must also be able to be turned off completely, so an additional switch is required.

OR..... you can buy a wiring harness, from the LB manufacturer, and install it yourself. Narva (Model 74401). ($55.xx including GST). Total cost was ~$211. Same thing selling on Ebay for $284.

The wiring harness looks like this:

harness.png
Complete with relays required, wiring, waterproof connectors, and the bypass switch (which I am working out where to mount). I think I will mount the switch INSIDE the interior fuse box, so it disappears.

There appears to be TWO plugs for additional driving lights, but in this case, I will only need one of them, so the other will be removed before installation.

It will be interesting to see how stable the mounting is (once the light is working, and I am driving). It seems surprisingly secure just held on by the two self tapping screws used to hold the number plate on. When I removed the screws, I thought, uh-oh, these alone aren't going to hold this light, and I was planning to remove the bumper bar, drill some more holes in the bar and bracket lower down so as to have at least 4 mounting points, and use stainless steel bolts and nyloc nuts to hold it all in place. But screwing the self tappers back in, they secured up nice and tightly, and I think they may be enough.

And that is where the How-To ends.... at least at this point in time. My harness is on order, should be here by Friday, and I will install the LB wiring over the weekend, take shots of where I mounted everything, and give you an honest appraisal of how effective the LB is over the standard lights.
 
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Thanks, my mistake! Passed right over it. That's what happens when your not focused. :p
(Ignore the fact my LB looks like I have joined the Fuzz, it is NOT blue, it is clear, the blue is the protective tape over the new polycarbonate lens, which has now been removed)
Comment deleted!;)
 
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How did you manage to get the switch into the cab? I can't for the life of me find the firewall grommet to feed through. I mounted a 22" Lightbar from Kings behind the grill, however, was dissapointed in the performance. Am now switching to 2 x 9" Osram Spots mounted on a stedi-branded licence plate mount.

Another issue I'm running into is using the highbeam as a switch. Any tips on this as the headlight connector looks space-aged. :D

https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/ki...ng-lights-pair-1-lux-at-1206-metres-ip68.html
https://www.stedi.com.au/number-plate-light-mounting-bracket.html
 
Still haven't got my wiring harness.... my supplier has been hopeless. The harness is arriving tomorrow, so will be installing the LB on Thursday.

I will try and take photos of the install, and the firewall grommet. I have found one I think will work, although it is on the passenger side of the firewall.

The headlight connector is space age, so I am going to feed straight off the wiring, and hopefully avoid any canbus issues.

Photos to come.
 
Still haven't got my wiring harness.... my supplier has been hopeless. The harness is arriving tomorrow, so will be installing the LB on Thursday.

I will try and take photos of the install, and the firewall grommet. I have found one I think will work, although it is on the passenger side of the firewall.

The headlight connector is space age, so I am going to feed straight off the wiring, and hopefully avoid any canbus issues.

Photos to come.

Went to an auto sparky today and they looked at it and advised they couldn't wire into the high beams... Any success with this :rolleyes:
 
Sorry chaps, this "How-To Guide" has become a "Look what I got installed" (Moderators may wish to move or delete this guide).

I finally got the harness after several weeks of waiting, and a couple of angry letters to management. When I rocked up to collect the harness, the owner of the business I bought it from apologised, and offered to fit the harness for me for 1/2 price ($100 instead of $200), and they could do it right now. Too good to refuse, and I had run out of time, as I am heading up to North Queensland on Friday.

So, they fitted the harness for me, took a good 90 minutes, my dash was in pieces, but they did an exceptionally good job, the wiring is almost completely hidden, and they took the wire into the cabin in through a grommet on the drivers side. He did point to where the hole was, but I must admit it was not the one I had found on the passenger side, a much better alternative.

The lights are wired into the high beam (legally), and the switch is inside the fuse/OBD box so it is completely hidden, and the dash looks completely stock.

The light seems to be very effective, but I am sure it needs a bit of adjustment to get the correct angle. Light seems to be almost light a spot light, rather than a broad beam of light, the LEDs must all be angled slightly inwards to a focal point.

LB1.jpg
LOW BEAM

lb2.jpg
HIGH BEAM (seems a little brighter but little distance illumination improvement)

lb3.jpg
HIGH BEAM with LIGHT BAR (a decent improvement)
 
Has there been any updates on an extender for the 'space age' headlight plug?

Seems to have a couple plugs that are similar, but not the same.
 
Sorry chaps, this "How-To Guide" has become a "Look what I got installed" (Moderators may wish to move or delete this guide).

I finally got the harness after several weeks of waiting, and a couple of angry letters to management. When I rocked up to collect the harness, the owner of the business I bought it from apologised, and offered to fit the harness for me for 1/2 price ($100 instead of $200), and they could do it right now. Too good to refuse, and I had run out of time, as I am heading up to North Queensland on Friday.

So, they fitted the harness for me, took a good 90 minutes, my dash was in pieces, but they did an exceptionally good job, the wiring is almost completely hidden, and they took the wire into the cabin in through a grommet on the drivers side. He did point to where the hole was, but I must admit it was not the one I had found on the passenger side, a much better alternative.

The lights are wired into the high beam (legally), and the switch is inside the fuse/OBD box so it is completely hidden, and the dash looks completely stock.

The light seems to be very effective, but I am sure it needs a bit of adjustment to get the correct angle. Light seems to be almost light a spot light, rather than a broad beam of light, the LEDs must all be angled slightly inwards to a focal point.

View attachment 8935
LOW BEAM

View attachment 8936
HIGH BEAM (seems a little brighter but little distance illumination improvement)

View attachment 8937
HIGH BEAM with LIGHT BAR (a decent improvement)
A very nice improvement, good on you mate!!

Like the front of the house as well. Brick construction, someone used the proper pillar mounts and I'd say it was fairly new construction as well. Like to see a photo of the entire home, if you wouldn't mind? Shoot it to me in a PM if you have a mind to. I like to see homes that are built in other countries. My Uncle was a Victoria home builder, proper carpenter, contractor, and gunite pool builder etc. I learned from him as I grew up. He built homes from the ground up the old way. Not the way they do now with computer generated frames, that are put together like puzzles.
 
So i took the socket out of the headlights, and this is the 'space age' plug i found. When installing the lightbar, did anyone have to cut into the OEM harness? or was there a plug and play solution?
 

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Reviving an old thread, but was thinking about installing the same on my i30N. Something different I’d like to try though is to use this:


As the connector appears identical, although I will need to check the pin out.
 

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High beam is Pin 2, grey wire on a 2023 European i30N
It is easy to unpin, pull out the white pin lock slightly and carefully release the plastic tab while pulling on the wire

headlight connector.png
Head lamp connector.png

Head lamps 3.png

"Temporary" install, I will move the relay and fuse inside the fuse box if I can source the pins for it

headlight relay.jpg


Weatherpack connector so the light bar can be removed

weatherpack.png

I fabricated a custom mount. Quite complicated as the plastic mount is convex. Probably highly overkill

mount.png
LB.jpg
 

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