450 unpainted, 550 painted
Oh, well you can’t get it professionally painted in the U.K. for 100 so that’s an easy decision.
Is it made from GRP?
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My i20N
- Thread starter YNWaN
- Start date
Oh, well you can’t get it professionally painted in the U.K. for 100 so that’s an easy decision.
Is it made from GRP?
It looks like the guys may be discussing the bottom end - but if it’s in the general theme of built engines it will also be forged pistons and rods - perhaps just stronger ones. Perhaps even going to a custom ECU and doing away with the direct injection. But I‘ve got to say, mine already feels very quick.
(I suspect gpaaa has all the answers on this)
Well, as with any clutch, it partly depends on how you use/abuse it. I don’t think there is so much of an issue with the tune I have but the jury is still out on the impact of raising it to 300+ bhp. As it stands so far, Courtenay haven’t changed the clutch, fuel pump or injectors - it’s all stock except for the reworked turbo.
My latest modification, I’ve just fitted the Whiteline rear axle sway bar to my i20N. Now the i20N doesn’t have a sway bar (anti-roll bar) as standard so this isn’t a five minute job. However, even accounting for having to work out how to fit it the whole job took us three hours. Also, although Whiteline have online instructions they miss out some key points and also tell you to do stuff you don’t need to.
These are the Whiteline fitting instructions:
Bear in mind that I fitted this with my good mate Dave but we also did it on the road and using just a trolley jack and a pair of axle stands (you cannot do this job with less equipment than this).
This is a very simple bit of kit - a solid metal bar and two metal end plates that bolt to the car and to the metal bar. However, the metal mounting plates bolt to the points directly below the suspension spring mounts and not all the mounting holes exist - so you have to do some drilling. But what the instructions don’t tell you is that two of the three holes (on each side of the car) do already exist, but they aren’t big enough (I think they are about 8mm but have to be 10mm). The instructions also tell you that you need to unbolt the lower shock absorber points and drop the rear axle - none of this needs to be done and no corners are cut if you don’t do it - you absolutely do not need to remove the rear suspension springs and all the suspension can be left in place. So…. What exactly do you have to do then? I will explain:
1/ Loosen the lug nuts to the rear wheels (you probably want to chock the front wheels too).
2/ Jack up the car and use axle stands to support the rear at the marked support points on the sills.
3/ Remove the rear wheels - strictly speaking you can do this job without removing them but access would be difficult and it‘s much easier if they are not in the way.
4/ Remove the plastic trim that surrounds the beam axle. I’m not sure what purpose this serves but, as you will see, it can be refitted later if a bit of minor surgery is done.
5/ Assemble the sway bar as the instructions suggest so that, when you do drill the new holes in the spring seats, everything aligns properly.
6/ Use a 10mm drill to open out the 4 holes (2 per side) marked - if clearance to the ground is a problem you can use the trolley Jack to compress the suspension a bit so you can get the drill under the car.
7/ Fit the bar and mounting plate assembly using the supplied bolts and the four holes you have just drilled out to 10mm.
8/ With it all bolted into place use the mounting plates as guides to drill the final mounting holes - note that these final holes do not exist until you drill them, you aren’t just opening up existing holes as you did with the other holes.
9/ Once the plates are firmly bolted to the suspension then the position of the sway bar can be set (for stiffness) and bolted up tight. You have to have the nuts on the side closest to the suspension or there is insufficient room to remove the bolts.
10/ Finally, the plastic trim (that covers the beam axle) can be refitted after a couple of minor mods are made. Drill out four clip positions so that they clear the new bolt heads and cut a couple of slots for the sway bar supports to fit - I used a Dremel with a small grinding disc and it only took a few minutes
These are the Whiteline fitting instructions:
Bear in mind that I fitted this with my good mate Dave but we also did it on the road and using just a trolley jack and a pair of axle stands (you cannot do this job with less equipment than this).
This is a very simple bit of kit - a solid metal bar and two metal end plates that bolt to the car and to the metal bar. However, the metal mounting plates bolt to the points directly below the suspension spring mounts and not all the mounting holes exist - so you have to do some drilling. But what the instructions don’t tell you is that two of the three holes (on each side of the car) do already exist, but they aren’t big enough (I think they are about 8mm but have to be 10mm). The instructions also tell you that you need to unbolt the lower shock absorber points and drop the rear axle - none of this needs to be done and no corners are cut if you don’t do it - you absolutely do not need to remove the rear suspension springs and all the suspension can be left in place. So…. What exactly do you have to do then? I will explain:
1/ Loosen the lug nuts to the rear wheels (you probably want to chock the front wheels too).
2/ Jack up the car and use axle stands to support the rear at the marked support points on the sills.
3/ Remove the rear wheels - strictly speaking you can do this job without removing them but access would be difficult and it‘s much easier if they are not in the way.
4/ Remove the plastic trim that surrounds the beam axle. I’m not sure what purpose this serves but, as you will see, it can be refitted later if a bit of minor surgery is done.
5/ Assemble the sway bar as the instructions suggest so that, when you do drill the new holes in the spring seats, everything aligns properly.
6/ Use a 10mm drill to open out the 4 holes (2 per side) marked - if clearance to the ground is a problem you can use the trolley Jack to compress the suspension a bit so you can get the drill under the car.
7/ Fit the bar and mounting plate assembly using the supplied bolts and the four holes you have just drilled out to 10mm.
8/ With it all bolted into place use the mounting plates as guides to drill the final mounting holes - note that these final holes do not exist until you drill them, you aren’t just opening up existing holes as you did with the other holes.
9/ Once the plates are firmly bolted to the suspension then the position of the sway bar can be set (for stiffness) and bolted up tight. You have to have the nuts on the side closest to the suspension or there is insufficient room to remove the bolts.
10/ Finally, the plastic trim (that covers the beam axle) can be refitted after a couple of minor mods are made. Drill out four clip positions so that they clear the new bolt heads and cut a couple of slots for the sway bar supports to fit - I used a Dremel with a small grinding disc and it only took a few minutes
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This is what the kit looks like. A powder coated spring steel bar and two sturdy steel plates - plus fasteners and lock nuts.
This is the plastic shroud that covers the U shaped beam axle . This doesn’t seem to serve any purpose other than decorative and its existence is just ignored by the Whiteline instructions. You could just leave it off but, with a couple of minor mods, it can be refitted.
This is a view from above the spring mount. Here it is shown without the spring or rubber seat - but neither of these have to be removed and there’s really no benefit in doing so as the holes all clear the spring and the rubber bushing. The holes marked 1 are the existing 8mm holes that need to be drilled out to 10mm and 2 is the hole that has to be drilled from scratch.
This is the plastic shroud that covers the U shaped beam axle . This doesn’t seem to serve any purpose other than decorative and its existence is just ignored by the Whiteline instructions. You could just leave it off but, with a couple of minor mods, it can be refitted.
This is a view from above the spring mount. Here it is shown without the spring or rubber seat - but neither of these have to be removed and there’s really no benefit in doing so as the holes all clear the spring and the rubber bushing. The holes marked 1 are the existing 8mm holes that need to be drilled out to 10mm and 2 is the hole that has to be drilled from scratch.
Yes, I noticed that the front sway bar ones are just generic - so not much use. As you say, Whiteline have now produced some i20N specific instructions (not with the bar, you have to download them from the Aus. website - not the U.K. one as they haven’t bothered to provide a link) but it’s a shame they ignore some fitting steps and tell you to do a load of stuff that isn’t necessary! Anyway, at least it fits well
.Yes, I noticed that the front sway bar ones are just generic - so not much use. As you say, Whiteline have now produced some i20N specific instructions (not with the bar, you have to download them from the Aus. website - not the U.K. one as they haven’t bothered to provide a link) but it’s a shame they ignore some fitting steps and tell you to do a load of stuff that isn’t necessary! Anyway, at least it fits well
Yeah, there's no question about quality, but it is weird that they lag a bit with providing decent instructions. I'm wondering if they left it to the Australian branch to do the job of putting the instructions together, seeing as it's now available on our website but not others? Who knows.
Agreed, the quality looks really good - very strong reinforcment for the mounting points and everything lines up. However, with a little more thought they could have made it so that all the mounting holes you have to drill out used existing holes and there woukd be no need to drill a completely new one. In fact, if they had just provided as many bolt points as already exist in the spring seat then there wouldn’t be the need to drill at all as smaller diameter bolts could be used!
When we looked at the instructions it states to remove the bolt from the bottom of the shock absorber and remove the spring. When it got to that there didn’t seem much more reach for the hand brake cable, the brake line (I’ve got HEL braided lines) and the brake pad wear sensor wire (though that can be unplugged easily enough). We did consider removing the caliper (as bleeding the brakes definitely wasn’t part of the plan) but it was all starting to become a bigger job than we had bargained on. Then we realised you didn’t really need to do any of that!
I’ve just spoken to Dan at RPM performance and will shortly be receiving their new tunnel brace. In fact it’s so new it’s not on their website yet. They are also about to release front and rear strut braces - but I already have the German versions of these (soon to be discontinued).
My next job is to fit these:
As Whiteline don’t give any fitting instructions at all I’m very glad that Zealot has already fitted them and been kind enough to write up how he did it. However, I’m hoping to do it an even simpler way - hopefully. I might have a go at the weekend if the weather permits.
As Whiteline don’t give any fitting instructions at all I’m very glad that Zealot has already fitted them and been kind enough to write up how he did it. However, I’m hoping to do it an even simpler way - hopefully. I might have a go at the weekend if the weather permits.
Hmm ok, at what point are you just adding so much more weight though?
After much conversation with Zealot (very helpful) I am optimistic that the beam axle bushings can be changed without excessive difficulty - but we shall see…
In the meantime I have purchased the following:
foresight-shop.eu
And also these Powerflex bushings to go with it:
powerflexstore.co.uk
In the meantime I have purchased the following:
Hyundai I20N short shifter
The Foresight short shifter is for Hyundai I20N . The shift travel can be freely selected between 20% and 40%. ...
foresight-shop.eu
And also these Powerflex bushings to go with it:
Powerflex Gear Shift Cable Bushes Kit - i30 PD inc N (2016 on) - PFF26-130
Powerflex bushes improve your cars’ road holding and chassis performance by controlling the amount of unwanted flex in the suspension. They offer Prolonged tyre life, Improved performance, Increased safety, Greater cost-effectiveness.
powerflexstore.co.uk