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Engine Engine Oil Discussion
- Thread starter Genis fabregat
- Start date
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- break-in dipstick discussion engine oil
Hello Guys,
I'm a relatively new owner of i30N with 4,500Km already.
I had my first oil change at 1,500 Km (ACEA C2 or above / 0W-30 - Shell Helix as the manual & dealer recommends).
However i have concerns that subject oil spec is not suitable for my location (Greece).
Please bear in mind that we are dealing with temps on/or abt. 35-37 Celcius at this time of the year, therefore i come across to oil temps of abt. 100-130 (when i really puss in a nice drive through continuous corners
). Off course oil will cool down, after a few minutes, if you go easy on your right foot.
I have discussed already this with my dealer, but I don't have a reply yet and still waiting. I think an oil spec of 5W-40 would do the job (for all year summer / winter).
I am looking forward to your comments.
I'm a relatively new owner of i30N with 4,500Km already.
I had my first oil change at 1,500 Km (ACEA C2 or above / 0W-30 - Shell Helix as the manual & dealer recommends).
However i have concerns that subject oil spec is not suitable for my location (Greece).
Please bear in mind that we are dealing with temps on/or abt. 35-37 Celcius at this time of the year, therefore i come across to oil temps of abt. 100-130 (when i really puss in a nice drive through continuous corners
). Off course oil will cool down, after a few minutes, if you go easy on your right foot.I have discussed already this with my dealer, but I don't have a reply yet and still waiting. I think an oil spec of 5W-40 would do the job (for all year summer / winter).
I am looking forward to your comments.
I had thought once the 1000 km was finished. Put the Xenum 5w30 oil, it will really protect equal to or better than u 0w30 since the viscosity of this oil is higher. It is my proceed Gt I put it and also added the additive Xenum VRX500, the spectacular car and nothing to do with the Shell.
The VRX additive is very expensive and you have to put it on every oil change, I tried it and very well, but I don't think it will repeat the additive but the oil does.
The VRX additive is very expensive and you have to put it on every oil change, I tried it and very well, but I don't think it will repeat the additive but the oil does.
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I live in the tropics and use 5W-30 all year round. It only gets below 20 degrees (minimum) for a month or so a year.Hello Guys,
I'm a relatively new owner of i30N with 4,500Km already.
I had my first oil change at 1,500 Km (ACEA C2 or above / 0W-30 - Shell Helix as the manual & dealer recommends).
However i have concerns that subject oil spec is not suitable for my location (Greece).
Please bear in mind that we are dealing with temps on/or abt. 35-37 Celcius at this time of the year, therefore i come across to oil temps of abt. 100-130 (when i really puss in a nice drive through continuous corners
I have discussed already this with my dealer, but I don't have a reply yet and still waiting. I think an oil spec of 5W-40 would do the job (for all year summer / winter).
I am looking forward to your comments.
I bought the i30n 1 month ago and here in Spain oil change is every 10000 km... They didn't tell me to come early for the first one (1500-3000 km or so), just at 10000 km. Anyone has had any oil consumption (relevant) between services? When I went to Seat to ask for the cupra, service interval was every 30000 km, which is a lot in comparison...
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Bringing the level above is not good. I think the info in the manual is not correct for those 4.8, I thought I read through the forum that happened to more people.
Yes - the dipstick reads high at 4.8 but:
1. Its not like the crank is going to be crashing through and frothing up that extra half a litre (at least that is what my immediate post-thrash inpection tells me) and
2. That is what the manual says is the correct measure.
When I checked the level after getting home after picking her up at 18km it was high. After oil and filter change at 1500km it was high. After 5000km and new filter and 4.8 L of new oil it was high. It still looks like honey and no bubble or froth straight after a flogging.
All that said, if you want go keep it right on the H on the dipstick level I don't think that will be a problem either
.
I don't think it's a rod problem. if not when the car consumes some oil if you leave it in the H at your discretion 500ml would still be missing. I believe that the measure indicated in the manual is 4.8 liters with the new engine before its first drain. I have a Cbr 1000 and the same thing happens in the user manual quotes a measurement and in the workshop 3 measures and the difference is by the first filling. I think the same thing happens in I30Yes - the dipstick reads high at 4.8 but:
1. Its not like the crank is going to be crashing through and frothing up that extra half a litre (at least that is what my immediate post-thrash inpection tells me) and
2. That is what the manual says is the correct measure.
When I checked the level after getting home after picking her up at 18km it was high. After oil and filter change at 1500km it was high. After 5000km and new filter and 4.8 L of new oil it was high. It still looks like honey and no bubble or froth straight after a flogging.
All that said, if you want go keep it right on the H on the dipstick level I don't think that will be a problem either
Hyundai does not say anything in the manual that it has to be done. Only that the service interval is 10000km or 12 months. I personally wont be doing that. Would be a different case if Hyundai states that in the manual that it has to be done.
Hello everybody, I bought my car 3weeks ago, I have read in many posts about the first engine oil change...I should do it with only 3k kilometers?????
I am doing mine this week and it's at 1100 miles. Every performance car I've had in the past has had a 1000-1200miles run in service, where you change Oil and Oil filter. For the sake of £50 of parts, why wouldn't you
My dealer suggested doing a 1000km first service right after the run-in and before you start driving at it's full capability.
Taking in consideration, the assembly lubricants and 0W30 weight motor oil Hyundai are utilizing, it's not a bad idea.
Viscosity suffers much quicker with the combination assembly lubricants, conventional and Synthetic blend oils. We've already seen results from oil lab testing and viscosity is akin to 0W20 oil, even when being changed at 1500 miles.
Just cheap insurance and going beyond what Hyundai recommends is never a bad thing.
Viscosity suffers much quicker with the combination assembly lubricants, conventional and Synthetic blend oils. We've already seen results from oil lab testing and viscosity is akin to 0W20 oil, even when being changed at 1500 miles.
Just cheap insurance and going beyond what Hyundai recommends is never a bad thing.
Took the N in for an oil change after running it in. I overestimated how much km I'll put on and booked it in a bit too early. Car has 908 km on the clock but I didn't want to push my appointment so here I am. Total cost for the oil change and oil filter is 115 euro (incl. labor). Took about 45 mins. I'll let the new oil settle for about 50 km and over 3k rpm here we come.