• Welcome to N-cars.net - the largest Hyundai N car forum. Check out the model specific sections below and scroll down for country specific forums. Scroll down for i30 N, Ioniq 5 N, i20 N, Veloster N and Kona N forums! Check out the i30 N Bible Here!

i20N wheel compatibility

Yeah, as you imply, that can’t be the case.
No?
Ok
First photo measurement: 67.05
4efa7363-7ef5-49f5-8b17-c9f50c5d7c91.jpeg76baf037-14d3-4305-8f12-83a8708ab3dd.jpeg

For me no problem.
You are now advised about the problem. If you don’t believe measure your hubs
If everyone of you understand everything of every all, for me fine. I’m just trying to help.

My problem was well solved.

Thank you.
 
No no. We're talking about the i20N, not the i30N. ;) 225/40R18 Bridgestone Potenza Sport. Standard 215/40R18 Pirelli.
I just bought 225/40/18 pilot sport 5 for my i20N and now it hits 100km in second and the speedo on OEM tyres was out by 5kmph now only out by 2 kmph before at 100kmph I’d indicate 105 now at 102 I’m actually doing 100kmph so the tyre size is perfect in my opinion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerome92
@RME1987 do your new wheels have the same conical nut seat as the OEM wheels? Or, put another way, are you still using the OEM wheels nuts with your new wheels?
 
@RME1987 do your new wheels have the same conical nut seat as the OEM wheels? Or, put another way, are you still using the OEM wheels nuts with your new wheels?
Yes and Yes.
Braid it’s in every detail custom and therefore I also asked that the drilling and tightening be the same as the original (conical lug nuts).
 
Last edited:
No?
Ok
First photo measurement: 67.05


For me no problem.
You are now advised about the problem. If you don’t believe measure your hubs
If everyone of you understand everything of every all, for me fine. I’m just trying to help.

My problem was well solved.

Thank you.
The reason I say ’that cannot be the case’ is because you state the difference is 0.1mm (0.2 total diameter). A spacer ring that thin would be ridiculously delicate - one tenth of one millimetre!

Anyway, the centre bore is only an easy alignment element as the conical wheel nuts have an extremely powerful centring effect as they are tightened.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerome92 and Zealot
The reason I say ’that cannot be the case’ is because you state the difference is 0.1mm (0.2 total diameter). A spacer ring that thin would be ridiculously delicate - one tenth of one millimetre!

Anyway, the centre bore is only an easy alignment element as the conical wheel nuts have an extremely powerful centring effect as they are tightened.
Well, @YNWaN, @Zealot , you don't have to prove me anything, and i don't have to prove you either. So, in my life i just want to learn and read about what i don't know.

And with my Braid experience, i had to read a lot to understand this subject. For me don't matter, if many wheel brands says that the hub don't load any weight! They sell lug centric wheels, they don't sell hub centric wheels, and so they sell the wheels with centric rings, for some reason.

So, here is the link, about lug centric and hub centric. And then, you will understand that the value of hub, is just not for the "easy alignment".


One more thing! My inicial statment about my experience, was to prove that Hyundai i20N, don't have centerbore of 67.1 mm. Is less, and once again, in the future i will post here a photo of my centric rings and is thickness.

But if there is still any doubt, put your phones and listen the gap when the wheels are on the hub (original one and Braid with 67.1mm). Even the original one has a little gap (but is minimal).


As i said before, my problem was well solved and for me that's what matter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: YNWaN and Automate
RME1987 I can see I have upset you but that was not my intention and I’m glad everything is resolved to your satisfaction. I merely sought to agree that the spacers can’t be 0.1mm as that is the thickness of a human hair (roughly). Anyway, my apologies for any offence caused.
 
So, here is the link, about lug centric and hub centric. And then, you will understand that the value of hub, is just not for the "easy alignment".

On vast majority of road cars, i20N included, yes the center ring takes zero load. That said, having perfect centering is a good thing and you did well
 
RME1987 I can see I have upset you but that was not my intention and I’m glad everything is resolved to your satisfaction. I merely sought to agree that the spacers can’t be 0.1mm as that is the thickness of a human hair (roughly). Anyway, my apologies for any offence caused.
But that's what i try to explain during my posts... with the video sound, you can clearly listen that is not human hair between both (hub car and wheel), and that said, Braid has 67.1mm, so imagine how much have the original ones.
I'm not upset, for me just closed subject (my subject).
 
On vast majority of road cars, i20N included, yes the center ring takes zero load. That said, having perfect centering is a good thing and you did well
That's not what I experienced. And the ongoing vibration was proof of that (3 rim and tire calibrations until deciding to make the centering washers). That same vibration causes severe wheel hub defects in the near future, particularly in a car like the i20N that was made to abuse corners.
Closed subject for me.

Some wheels photos, i appreciate. Thank you.
 
Question regarding the center bore, is it possible the Hyundai intentionally made the center 0.2mm smaller so that the hub heating wouldnt cause issues with the wheel center bore? I dont think anyone has yet mentioned potential different heat expansion properties of the hub vs an alloy wheel (aluminium expands 3x faster/more than iron??).

Perhaps Hyundai aims for just under 67mm and then tells aftermarket wheel manufacturers just over 67mm, so the tolerances will not be too tight, and they expect that wheel fitters will do a good job* fitting them centered and tighten them in the right pattern and to the right torque?

Anyway, I am using aftermarket lugnuts as i wanted anti-theft. they have less of a flange, but are the same kind of conical. I try to torque them in the correct order with the factory rims out of caution for the threads (they advise to not use impact guns), but now i'm concerned that i'll have to be extra careful if i look to buy replacement rims.

*my experience is that average tire shop fitters are a pack of mouth-breathers that should try wearing a necktie torqued up like they tighten lugnuts
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Zealot
@6ixxer Yes mate, I was thinking exactly that, about the heat and different expansion rates between steel hub and aluminium wheel, just didn't say it. Also in regards to conical seat nuts that are used in lug centric designs.
 
Apologies for any unintentional rudeness from my side.
I'll see myself out, but just to clarify better some points that perhaps I didn't express properly:
  • It was suggested that wheel studs and lug nuts directly support the lateral load between hub and wheel. This is wrong, a threaded fastener never takes any relevant amount of shear load as it would break very easily. Studs and nuts are purely loaded axially and what keeps together hub and rim is the resulting friction between their surfaces.
  • It was suggested that the inner hub flange supports the lateral load between hub and wheel. This is wrong, on most cars (can't speak for out of EU or for heavy duty) the load is supported purely by friction.
So why RME was experiencing vibrations before fitting the center rings? That's because rims were likely not well centered and this was resulting in an imbalance of the wheel. The wheel was NOT moving relative to the hub (provided that the lugs nuts were torqued down obviously), there was no safety risk, just the inconvenience of vibration. Fitting the center ring ensure that rim and hub are axially aligned eliminated vibrations. This is not necessary if the conical lug nuts do their job and you tight them first by hand in a star pattern (I do with my Mak NTT CB 76mm that I track and never had any issues), but it helps. Also when it is in place the center ring will NOT take any load, that's why they are commonly plastic.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zealot
While i was installing 30mm HnR lowering springs on my I20 and tested fitted some Evo X BBS wheels 18x85 +38 that i dont use.

i don't have pictures only a video they stick out half a inch with 245 tyres i could make them fit with 225 tyres and some camber for sure look really good.


 
  • Like
Reactions: RME1987
While i was installing 30mm HnR lowering springs on my I20 and tested fitted some Evo X BBS wheels 18x85 +38 that i dont use.

i don't have pictures only a video they stick out half a inch with 245 tyres i could make them fit with 225 tyres and some camber for sure look really good.


Those Evolution wheels with 8.5J and ET 38 (and h&r springs) will rub on your fenders. But they are nice 👍
 
I don't suppose anyone has fitted a set of 8.5jx18 ET45 alloys with 225/40 tyres, as I order a set of OZ Racing Estrema GT HLT in Matt Bronze in that sizing. That was the fitment given when I put my car details in, but I'm unsure if they will fit ok and was just wondering if anyone has any experience running these size of alloys.
 
Well I‘ve had 225 tyres fitted to the 7.5” wide wheels and you could barely tell compared to 8” wheels I later fitted them to. I expect they will fit on 8.5” just fine. Bu5 that doesn’t tell you about arch clearance at maximum lock - is your suspension lowered?