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Engine Used Oil Analysis

Nomad17

Active Member
#1
I know testing the factory fill has relatively little value as wear metals will read high but with the dealer pushing me to keep it in until at least 3k I needed to see what it looked like. Decent amount of anti-wear additives but if this truly started out a 0w-30 it sheared all to hell in less than 3000 miles.
 

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#3
I know testing the factory fill has relatively little value as wear metals will read high but with the dealer pushing me to keep it in until at least 3k I needed to see what it looked like. Decent amount of anti-wear additives but if this truly started out a 0w-30 it sheared all to hell in less than 3000 miles.
Nice info. I really wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't actual 0w-30 in there.
 

Nomad17

Active Member
#6
I pretty much drove it from day 1 the same I'll always drive it. Easy until oil reaches temp but once warm I didn't limit myself to a certain rpm or anything. But yeah, for sure factory fill shouldn't stay the full duration. Maybe refill with something that has extra moly, looking at this that's the only possible justification I can think of for them being so adamant about leaving it.
 
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#8
The Kia / Hyundai stuff uses a low viscosity oil. I believe the 5W30 AF is the best all round grade on the 1.6 Gamma Turbo engine. The AF is the important bit to fully lubricate the bottom end from cold start as the clearances are quite tight - from reading up. I have seen 0W20 being mentioned as well, but I like to think that the extra weight may have some benefit as an all year round oil. I change my oil after about 2500 miles (twice a year)

I wonder if the low viscosity in the report was due to the AF grading ?
 
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#9
I know testing the factory fill has relatively little value as wear metals will read high but with the dealer pushing me to keep it in until at least 3k I needed to see what it looked like. Decent amount of anti-wear additives but if this truly started out a 0w-30 it sheared all to hell in less than 3000 miles.
Finally got my break-in oil analysis back from Blackstone Labs (was curious about fuel dilution) and my results look very similar to yours. Viscocity came back as being low for a 0w-30 oil. Makes me really wonder what they are putting in the car from factory. I ran Gumout at 1500 miles and 3000 miles before changing out the break-in oil for Amsoil 0w-30.

baby blue vn.JPG
 
#10
Finally got my break-in oil analysis back from Blackstone Labs (was curious about fuel dilution) and my results look very similar to yours. Viscocity came back as being low for a 0w-30 oil. Makes me really wonder what they are putting in the car from factory. I ran Gumout at 1500 miles and 3000 miles before changing out the break-in oil for Amsoil 0w-30.

View attachment 9265
What is the recommended pil for i30n from Hyundai?
 
#13
What bramd

What brand ?
I used Amsoil Signature Series 5w30 for my first 2 oil changes. Now I'm moving over to Amsoil Sig Series 0w30.

My understanding is that most of the wear on an engine is during the warm-up and first 10-20 minutes of driving. By using that lower viscosity 0w oil I should theoretically decrease the amount of wear during start-up.

Also I would have went with the 0w30 right away if I didn't have a bunch of 5w30 leftover to use.
 
#14
What bramd

What brand ?
I'm running Amsoil 0w-30. Amsoil is supposedly the best brand you can get , hence why it's so pricey. 0w-30 which is low viscocity is gonna get your engine to operating temperatures quicker (particularly good for very cold climates) and also it will help with gas mileage.
 
#16
think 0w-30 would be okay to run in Texas?
100+ degree days in the summer, gets down to 30F for about one week out of the year here lol
Owner manual states you will be good until 120 degrees with 0w-30 at the very least. Might want to run 5w-30 in such a hot climate though just to be safe, especially if your not concerned with gas mileage. B0D34839-ACB2-4532-9779-A6B3F822BB08.jpeg
 

Nomad17

Active Member
#18
0w-30 should be fine, but if I were in Texas I'd probably look at a 10w30 for most of the year and a 5w30 to cover that week you might see 30f (or just 5w30 year round).

Only reason i say this is the factory fill 0w30 seemed to shear considerably, and generally speaking the wider the range an oil covers the more likely it will thin out during use (0w-30 is a range of 30, 10w30 is a range of 20, etc).

If you plan short intervals for your changes this is less of a concern.
 
#19
0w-30 should be fine, but if I were in Texas I'd probably look at a 10w30 for most of the year and a 5w30 to cover that week you might see 30f (or just 5w30 year round).

Only reason i say this is the factory fill 0w30 seemed to shear considerably, and generally speaking the wider the range an oil covers the more likely it will thin out during use (0w-30 is a range of 30, 10w30 is a range of 20, etc).

If you plan short intervals for your changes this is less of a concern.
Are we all in agreement it is actually 0w-30 they are putting in the car from factory? If this is true you are correct it is shearing like crazy. Can only imagine the viscocity if you left in the break-in oil for 6k miles. What oil did you go with for your oil change ? And I'm guessing no oil analysis with the new oil yet?
 

Nomad17

Active Member
#20
2k left before next uoa, I went with Ravenol dxg mainly for an oil good against lspi, something that is new to me. Its a relatively light 5w30 so depending how it holds up over 3k i may have to switch to something beefier.
 
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