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There Is No Plan

1FastStagea

Well-Known Member
#21
DOT4 racing brake fluid arrived. Talked to OMP about getting mounting brackets made for the VN. Rep’s going to check with the mothership in Italy to see if i30N brackets are already available.
For brackets I'm assuming you mean for seats? Recaro and Bride offer them, and I'm working out a deal with my buddy to replicate the set I got from that shop in Korea a little while ago so those may be available in the near future at a very fair price as well.

Curious to see what you do with those heat reduction materials...
 

Cygnus X-1

Well-Known Member
#23
Ordered MT-LV. Stuff is super hard to find. Pegasus said only two quarts had been ordered since they started carrying it last August.

Only other 70W MTFs I could find are from Pennrite and Driven. The former is only available in AU and the latter is a stock car qualifying fluid (not GL-4).

D4323CA5-13B6-4FA2-A2E3-995BBDFCD820.jpeg

Another Red Line transmission fluid, D6 ATF apparently meets GL-4 and can be used in MTs as an alternative.
 
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#24
Not quite yet, but very soon.

Couple of things arrived:
Did you buy pre-mixed or full strength and why did you choose this? I'm VERY interested in upgrading all of my fluids since I'm positive Hyundai sin't using the best of the best. I just did a little bit of research and what is the deal with waterless coolant? I'm watching a video on Jay Leno's garage specifically about Evans. Can you use that stuff with a pressurized system? Sorry for the basic questions! Just trying to learn!
 

Cygnus X-1

Well-Known Member
#25
Did you buy pre-mixed or full strength and why did you choose this? I'm VERY interested in upgrading all of my fluids since I'm positive Hyundai sin't using the best of the best. I just did a little bit of research and what is the deal with waterless coolant? I'm watching a video on Jay Leno's garage specifically about Evans. Can you use that stuff with a pressurized system? Sorry for the basic questions! Just trying to learn!
1G of 50/50 premix and will cut it with distilled water.

Evans is a nice idea, until you come to grips with the fact that you’d need to carry extra with you at all times. Otherwise, if you have a cooling system emergency, you can’t add regular coolant or water. It’s really only for systems that have problems with pressure leaks, like on the BMW 540i, for example.
 
#27
1G of 50/50 premix and will cut it with distilled water.

Evans is a nice idea, until you come to grips with the fact that you’d need to carry extra with you at all times. Otherwise, if you have a cooling system emergency, you can’t add regular coolant or water. It’s really only for systems that have problems with pressure leaks, like on the BMW 540i, for example.
Cool. I'm thinking of doing the same. That will put you right at a 70/30 mixture. I see the manual recommends no more than a 65/35 mixture but I'm sure it's not an issue with what you're using!
 

Cygnus X-1

Well-Known Member
#28
First cold start. Can clearly hear the exhaust valve closing and opening. As noted elsewhere, it starts at 50% open (which sounds great). From there, to me it sounds like it quickly closes (yuck), then opens back to 50% (too late after revs drop), then fully open shortly after that (droney). The transitions are rather unsmooth (not timed well).

I would just keep it at 50% at startup and idle, keeping it there at low speeds until throttle angle is above 40% or so, then open fully. Only close the exhaust valve if in Eco/quiet mode or automatically if throttle is below 25% (i.e., at low load cruising). JMO.

50% definitely sounds the best to my ear. Throaty but not droney (i.e., when fully open).

Nice idea, Biermann, but the operational configuration of the exhaust valve in just this cold start condition is not intuitive and needs work. This should be transparent and natural, not these blatant exhaust note changes at startup/warmup and at idle. Base butterfly opening primarily on throttle percentage and secondarily on load.

Sounds like an opportunity for a customizable module to override this behavior.

 
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1FastStagea

Well-Known Member
#29
First cold start. Can clearly hear the exhaust valve closing and opening. As noted elsewhere, it starts at 50% open (which sounds great). From there, to me it sounds like it quickly closes (yuck), then opens back to 50% (too late after revs drop), then fully open shortly after that (droney). The transitions are rather unsmooth (not timed well).

I would just keep it at 50% at startup and idle, keeping it there at low speeds until throttle angle is above 40% or so, then open fully. Only close the exhaust valve if in Eco/quiet mode or automatically if throttle is below 25% (i.e., at low load cruising). JMO.

50% definitely sounds the best to my ear. Throaty but not droney (i.e., when fully open).

Nice idea, Biermann, but the operational configuration of the exhaust valve in just this cold start condition is not intuitive and needs work. This should be transparent and natural, not these blatant exhaust note changes at startup/warmup and at idle. Base butterfly opening primarily on throttle percentage and secondarily on load.

Sounds like an opportunity for a customizable module to override this behavior.


I think it should've just been a programmable feature from the factory. There's a lot of times that I want to start up the car early in the morning for example and just want everything as quiet as possible but am forced to serenade my neighbors with the N's open/half-open exhaust note while the car warms up regardless of what mode I'm in.
 

Cygnus X-1

Well-Known Member
#30
Contacted a dyno shop about 30m away and tentatively scheduled a 2-hour session for midweek next. Plenty of time to get the car strapped down and not feel rushed, monitor IATs for consistency and log each pull with TqP.

Unfortunately, he’s not set up for boost readings, so will have to rely on TqP logs. Fuel ratio readings will be from a tailpipe probe. Already plan on unplugging the exhaust valve while in the open position.

Will plan out multiple configurations to dyno. DynoJet 224x and he agreed to provide files for each pull, so I can bring’em back and load’em up on the computer for analysis and image generation.
 
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#32
Without any measurements or logging I've definitely noticed large variances in "seat of the pants" acceleration in situations I hadn't even been running it that hard. Really felt like it was turning everything down, and I assume based on temps. I'm very interested to see what you do to address underhood temps and iat's in general, it really seems to be a challenge for this platform.
 
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padigree

Moderator
Staff member
#36
Short question, not only depending on your car, depending on most of the dyno runs. Why do all the people make dyno runs with opened hoods? I thought people wanted to know the "realistic" performance.. Also I've seen some people dynoing their cars with open bonnet and opened airbox cover. Does that really makes sense? Sorry for asking like a stupid guy :D
 

Cygnus X-1

Well-Known Member
#37
Car gets heat-soaked enough with insufficient fans that do not nearly simulate real-world airflow on the road. Hood was left open to watch and listen to the engine/turbo, quickly make configuration changes and shorten cooling time between runs.

Some surprising results (but somewhat expected based on historical VT experience) were seen. Car generally became stronger as more runs were done, partially from configuration changes and partially from ECM adaptation. Overall, fairly consistent results.

Let the mods begin!

By the way, here’s a teaser of one of the surprises... The stock recirculation/bypass/diverter valve does not vent quickly/thoroughly enough and when boost is even moderate, off-throttle compressor surge is readily apparent. Captured a vid to demonstrate which will be posted later. Unacceptable.
 
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Cygnus X-1

Well-Known Member
#38
Weather data during dyno session:

DC88C0DC-65C6-473E-95D2-E89B67C3376C.jpeg

Here were the two best runs of nine (9). #1 was thrown out due to bad fuel ratio data (probe was in valved outlet; switched to non-valved outlet), while #5 was thrown out due to bad connection to an ignition wire. #4 had the highest horsepower and #8 had the highest torque. Note that this is using SAE correction factor.

20190313-p4maxhp-p8maxtq.png

Assuming the generally accepted value of 15% drivetrain loss, this works out to:
#4 - 270.8 BHP & 285.9 BTQ
#8 - 264.0 BHP & 290.6 BTQ

Now the same results with STD correction factor (what all tuners use in the VT community):

20190313-p4maxhp-p8maxtq-std.png

Again, assuming 15% drivetrain loss:
#4 - 277.6 BHP & 293.2 BTQ
#8 - 270.6 BHP & 297.9 BTQ

Now the raw results (i.e., no correction factor) for the same pulls:
20190313-p4maxhp-p8maxtq-raw.png

Again, assuming 15% drivetrain loss:
#4 - 274.3 BHP & 289.7 BTQ
#8 - 266.6 BHP & 293.6 BTQ

Just for fun, here's how the DIN (German correction factor) results look:
20190313-p4maxhp-p8maxtq-din.png

With 15% drivetrain loss:
#4 - 278.8 & 294.4
#8 - 271.7 & 299.1

As you can see, correction factors muck with the numbers because of the environmental conditions they use. The real world numbers are raw/uncorrected but are only valid for the day and time under which they were run, while the correction factors are just to standardize against results in other locales with different environmental conditions.

Additionally, when I go back to do more dyno testing, the raw numbers won't be comparable since the environmental conditions will be slightly different, while the results using the correction factors will be comparable.

(To be continued further below)
 
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Cygnus X-1

Well-Known Member
#40
If you didn't see I added information to my previous post, go back and look. It talks briefly about different correction factors and how they can affect interpretations of results. Will revisit CFs in a future post, but for now, here's one of the surprises...

20190313-p2base-p9eco-sae.png

#2 is what I'm calling my baseline. Completely stock with AC on and with the blower fan on the lowest setting. N custom mode with all engine performance modes set to maximum.

#9 is the last run of the session, where I reverted some changes back to stock, with AC on, blower fan on lowest setting. Out of curiosity, I decided to do the run in Eco mode. Even after all the heat soak, it put down one of the better pulls and was significantly better than the baseline. A check of the ambient temperature in the dyno room showed it was 5 degrees (F) warmer as well!

Why? I can think of two main reasons. (1) ECM adaptation over time and (2) Eco mode runs at a leaner lambda... Look at the bottom air/fuel ratio curve! It's still too rich, yet it made more power from being just a bit leaner up top. Most noticeably from 4500 and up.

This is interesting, because I strictly run in Eco mode when warming the engine oil up and noticed the little power burst around 4500 RPM the day before the dyno session. I thought it was just due to that ever-present 4100-4200 RPM dip and the recovery afterward.

Now that I think about it, a future dyno test will involve pulling the plug on the exhaust valve while full open and then seeing what Eco mode does! o_O

If someone else could confirm this behavior...

 
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