I think I what these guys are doing is great, untill this post. It’s a well known fact that the standard turbo cannot reach higher than 320-330bhp converted from the crank, tops! 360+ is about crank power WITH a hybrid turbo, well documented in @TarmoT ’s and my own members threads. It’s as if their claimed WHP is what we are finding BHP in Europe, not to mention the US use lower octane fuel.
Seriously man you need to cool your jets! From the impression your leaving, providing very little proof for what you're claiming, it's more about the spouting off then the facts.i mean not for nothing .. but i personally have hit 298 on a dyno jet in 60* weather with just intake and down pipe. not to mention look at how it comes in its all low end and huge torque.. i just find it odd it's ok for piggy backs to hit 280 -290 with next to no mods and no one bats an eye but an ecu tune hits 300+ with basically full bolt ons and everyone cries bloody murder.
just because YOU haven't done it doesn't mean it cant be done. 300 is definitely plausible. heck the bk1 gen had the same turbo size basically and it made 260-275 whp to the rear wheels with a less efficient manifold design which means just accounting for drive train differences get you to about 300
it's not like they said it made 330 whp then i get it but 300 is definitely in the realm of possibility esp with full bolt ons .. keep in mind eveyrone is currently limited to under 23 psi unless you're using a piggy back on top of a tune so once that gets broken through more and more people will be hitting 300 esp with powerbands like this
Seriously man you need to cool your jets! From the impression your leaving, providing very little proof for what you're claiming, it's more about the spouting off then the facts.
There's simply no argument, until you've been there. You haven't and just don't know! Two here @TamoT and @ Dan_bush27 have!
First off, you need to post your own dyno testing and results. This is something you haven't bothered to do. There hasn't been a 2.0T Theta II produce that will make 298+ whp or anywhere near it with just a downpipe and intake, from first production till now. This^ is a simply fact.
I don't know of any piggyback to date that produces anything near 260-275 whp without additional bolton modifications and I venture no one here has either.
Second, the VN internals aren't going to take a steady diet of anything over 23 psi + boost without modification to; clutch and possibly closing the block deck. There are, several companies who have already have tunes available for the VN. However, even with the remapping and bolts on's; Intake, Intercooler, DownPipe, improved Turbo Inlets, etc., no one has come close to developing 300+ whp with an OEM Turbo. This is also fact, not "premature speculation"
I have considerably more invested in my VN then you including bolt ons and I'm nowhere near 300+ whp. There's also another member here with a VN that has blot on modification including meth injection and is no where near 300 whp.
I know how to get there but I'm not going to do it with merely bolt ons, especially without an upgrade of the OEM turbo and neither is anyone else with a VN or i30N.
These two noted gentleman above ^ are providing everyone with a clear and concise representation of what's achievable. Not what's claimed!
IMO, until you can show everyone here your so called dyno results you've achieved; I'd say you need be more of spectator then speculator. Just some friendly advice, capisci !
Last but not least; until SXTH Element can produce all their bolts on's and get them to their customer, it's all a moot point. Customers are still waiting and only time will tell as to what can actually be achieved by individual owners.
Plus, no dynamometer SAE standard utilized, no boost pressures attained or A/F ratios posted to bolster the actual reading they got. One dyno run does not make a standard. Frankly, This is an small OEM Turbo being pushed to and beyond its efficiency level.
the irony is i have done it by myself.. but it IS good to see how many grown men cry when something goes against what they believe.. yeesh showflake much?I used hand crank (made in USSR) dyno and managed to take out 1000whp from stock steering wheel. If you haven’t done it by yourself, it does not mean that it is impossible. It is nice to see that so many grown up boys still belive Stanta Claus.
Actually, far better than you can imagine. This is the exact problem I'm having here at the moment. I almost understand to well. Dan_bush27 and @TamoT have done their diligence, so have I but I don't see this in your postings, nor in what you've provided up to this point.Capisci,
Lol sure i have what ? Worked with other people? You looked me up so im sure another 2 seconds would have shown you ive worked with Alphaspeed on lots stuff over the last 5 years. I dont care to get into pissing matches either it doesn't help anything. But ignoring everything that disagrees with you doesn't help. You say i dont have proof however i have a video posted of the car on the dyno, a dyno sheet for a 2020n and countless ours in testing and data logs that say otherwise.Yeah ok pal, sure you have. I know exactly who you are. Right now I just don't care to get into a push me, shove you, VT forum drama, altercation.
Please, take it back to the VT forums where it originates from. This BS and you, are on ignore. Oh by the way, neither have you! LMAO!!
usually i was holding about 20 psi to about 5200 or so then it falls off to 16.5 by redline i have seen ~19 psi out to 5600 buuut i believe i got in it later in the rpm band so that doesn't really count. the 21.75 "limit" is also depending on barometric sensor all of the sim2k thus far have had this issue once you hit the sensor max (usually around 22.5psi) it'll give you a full stop and throw an over boost code.. as you mentioned you can delete the code but unfortunately that doesn't fix the issue, i was working on this for a while utilizing the ways to get around it from the bk1 and bk2 gen coupe but nope. theres unfortunately a myriad of things that get in the way one of the notable things is the car has a "modelled" compressor speed which it partially uses boost to figure out how fast it thinks the turbo is spinning.. this really is a PITA when you run a bigger turbo on the car as you still got stuck at the same psi you did on stock turbo because it thinks HOLY COW THE TURBO IS SPINNING SO FAST, even tho in reality it's spinning slower then stock. Unfortunately these tables in the N dont mimic the ones from the bk1. bk2 gen or YF /k5 all of which I have defs for so talk about major disappointment. Unfortunately though it's the same TYPE of ecu (sim2k) they changed things just enough to be a PITA with some stuff (hyundai LOVES doing this, they removed the boost limiter that was on the veloster turbo when they did the ES(yes its not a bosch branded ecu in the elantra sport but the overall architecture is the same) like of all things why would you remove that LOL also made me go crazy for a few days trying to find it til i was just like eh lets give this a shot .. hits 24 psi.. WOH there nelly guess they don't have a single value overboost limiter LOL. for instance the bk2 gen theres a value for throwing an issue if you go over the sensor max based on the voltage ( it's set at 4.85 stock) if you change it to over 5v it makes it so it doesn't care since it's basically saying "freak out if you hit over this voltage" which you obviously cant do that on a 0-5v sensor.. that didn't do anything even in conjunction with removing the cel. I was at it for a good 2-3 weeks trying to figure this out till i said well it really doesn't matter because I don't intend to go over 20-21 psi on stock turbo any way LOLOk guys, lets cool down, even 21psi of boost does not make stock turbocharger to blow decent amount of hot air to the IC. 21psi of boost + stage1 turbocharger can reach 300+ whp but absolute limit for stage1 charger in what I am runing at the moment (about 340whp and 24.65psi of boost).
Oem turbo can not hold boost over 5400rpm and if you want to make 320whp with that small guy, 26psi of boost is required. Another thing is that everything over 21,75psi must be done buy using piggyback. Stock ECU has 21,75psi boost limiter and most of people who are using more boost with remap, have had lots of trouble with random ECU fault codes. I finished by deleting baro sensor fault code from error table, but after that some other DTC codes started to appear