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pandahatch's Chalk White Veloster N PP

pandahatch

New Member
Feb 4, 2019
28
23
3
Seattle
Imgur link with pics! I'll get some more pics up, too.

I didn't want to do a separate full write-up so here's something that I posted to /r/cars on reddit!

I've been in the market for a car for about 4 months and I've been doing extremely extensive research. I didn't even know what segment I was going to purchase, so I just started going and sitting in cars in showrooms and went to the Seattle Auto Show and sat in almost everything. The crossovers, SUVs, and Trucks were all too big for me. Wasn't interested. As I continued to do more research I went really deep into the GTI hole because those cars are great. I test drove one and really liked it, but I still wanted to do my due diligence.

I test drove a dual-clutch GTI, Civic Si, a Hyundai Elantra GT, an old LS400 (with only 86k miles on it!). While they were all great cars in their own right, they just didn't have the driving dynamics of the GTI which I didn't realize I was going to value so much. I came from an STI that I blew up, rebuilt, and then sold because of the PTSD from how much money I poured into it. I wouldn't even drive it hard and figured it should go to an owner who could get the most out of it.

After that, circled back to the GTI and test drove a manual. It was an amazing car and I forgot how much I LOVED driving manual. I was a little fed up with driving manual because the stage 2 clutch in my STI was a god damn workout to use for daily driving and I was just so jaded by the whole experience that I thought I was going to buy a cheap, automatic, slow daily driver that would be great for commuting.

Little did I know, I could check all of my boxes with the Veloster N. I've been holding off on the GTI just to test drive the VN after all of the YouTube reviewers were raving about it. I finally had a chance on 2/26 to take it out for a test drive and I bought it on the spot. When I got in, the odometer was at 10 miles and I was the 1st person to drive it. They told me they would sell it for MSRP and so I had to do it.

This car is in a class of its own - I totally understand why publications are comparing it to the Type R instead of the GTI and Si. It's a much more visceral experience and is one of the most driver focused cars I've ever driven. The weighty steering, small and thick BMW-esque wheel, complete customization in N-custom mode, automatic rev-matching, e-LSD, good brakes, etc etc are all amazing and make it an absolute blast to whip around.

I am not only okay with the lack of creature comforts, but I welcome it. What it means to me, is that I just bought what could have easily been a $40k car for $29.9k. I'm happy to give up soft-touch plastics, blind-spot monitors, sunroof, heated seats, auto seats, rain sensing wipers, and more so that they were able to give me an engaging and driver focused engine, transmission, exhaust, e-LSD, and engine management system.

Back to stuff I'm writing in real-time:

I have a few questions for you guys!
  1. What oil do you plan on using? I used Eneos in my STI. I'm looking at Motul and thinking 5w-30 based on the manual.
  2. When are you going to do oil changes during break-in? 100 miles? 500 miles? 1,000? All of the above?
    1. What break-in oil? (I have 300 miles on the car right now and haven't changed it. I'm probably too late now!)
  3. Are there any essential fluids or things I should optimize to get better performance and reliability? Too soon for this Q?
My mod wish-list:
  1. I want to start with the basics
    1. Full body ceramic coating
    2. Delete Veloster badge
    3. Black out Hyundai badges (I'd like them to be gloss and look OEM, not cheap)
  2. Like-to-haves
    1. Powder coat wheels or get new wheels
    2. I plan on waiting for any performance mods until we get more aftermarket support. I also plan on leaving my car mostly stock for a long time to make sure I keep my warranty.

Also, in an effort to save you guys some potential headaches, my car had a problem within the first 250 miles of driving!
I took my car out for a long Saturday drive out east of Seattle and the car was running amazing! At the end of the drive, I stopped at The Grange (An ethanol free gas station we have up here - best place to get gas!) and after I finished filling up I left my car running (with my buddy in it) while I went and used the restroom. From there, we pulled out and were in a long line of traffic to get on the freeway back to Seattle and I got an overheating warning. Obviously I went "ARE U FUKIN W/ ME RN" pulled over immediately, opened the hood and checked a few things. Coolant full? Check. Radiator fan running? Nope. Alright cool so now I know it's not a big deal. I turn off the car and let it sit for a little while to cool down and then drive to the dealer. The car runs totally fine and I drop it off and tell them it's most likely just a connector or something like that. They keep the car from Saturday and then around mid-day Monday when all of the techs were back in they called and confirmed it was just a connector.

You may be wondering, why didn't you just figure it out yourself? Well, because my car only had 250 miles, I want to go to the dealer for EVERYTHING in case my car ends up being a lemon. It most likely isn't, but I want everything documented with how many days the car is in the shop in case I keep having other problems as well and want to exercise the lemon law. Again, highly unlikely but I figured it's good to get everything problem related done through the dealer.
 
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Cygnus X-1

Well-Known Member
Jul 25, 2018
1,172
1,546
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US
(1) AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 or 0W-20.
(2) Changed at 13 miles to Pennzoil 5W-30 conventional oil with plenty of molybdeum for better ring seal; repeating at ~750-800 miles, then AMSOIL as above. Essentially, the Pennzoil 5W-30 dino oil is my break-in oil.
(3) I’m changing all fluids (gearbox, coolant and brake/clutch) as soon as I accumulate everything. You can follow my project thread for specifics.
 

pandahatch

New Member
Feb 4, 2019
28
23
3
Seattle
(1) AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 or 0W-20.
(2) Changed at 13 miles to Pennzoil 5W-30 conventional oil with plenty of molybdeum for better ring seal; repeating at ~750-800 miles, then AMSOIL as above. Essentially, the Pennzoil 5W-30 dino oil is my break-in oil.
(3) I’m changing all fluids (gearbox, coolant and brake/clutch) as soon as I accumulate everything. You can follow my project thread for specifics.
Thank you! What is your history? You seem wildly educated and I'm excited to follow your build.
 
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Cygnus X-1

Well-Known Member
Jul 25, 2018
1,172
1,546
113
US
First gen Veloster Turbo (VT) owner & enthusiast since 2013. Many other platforms owned across various marques - Acura, Audi, BMW, Chevy, Ford, GMC, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Pontiac, Saab, Subaru.