Yes i do, cracking is most audible when turning at low speeds but it might be as well spring rotating - highly doubt but have to verify that first. On bumpy roads there is rattling coming from the front of the car like sth was loose. So far i can live with it but nothing i experienced before with other top mounts installed on different cars. As for the height increase, after eibachs were installed front end sat at 332mm measured from the middle of the hub to wheel arch. After strut tops were fitted it sits at about 345 mm maybe more. You can actually visually compare forge design when mated with OEM strut bearing and pad to OEM design. It can be seen that distance between top of the strut mount to spring pad is bigger with forge setup than stock. Either way wait for your order and check for yourself.
You're a devil's advocate, right? #LOL
My friend with H&R springs used portion of the current/not new OEM top mounts (granted he still has less than 4k miles I believe) and he does not have the clunking/noise you have at this moment. During this pandemic he hasn't really driven his car, but will be tracking it soon and we'll see if any noise are made, etc.You're a devil's advocate, right? #LOL
There was no (and i believe there still isn't) ant fitnment manual attached to the product, but - to make you, and anyone else, feel better informed - YES, The OEM bearing was installed together with adjustable top mounts. I've double checked how the top mounts were installed in two independent motorsport services, and their opinion is clear and unambiguous -> the noises are caused because of the Forge Top Mounts. It's a company offering absolutely no support for their customers, and even for their distributors.
And BTW - if you set the camber, it may cause damage to the bodywork.
in my experience they will check the top mounts and bearings and replace if worn, but not automatically.Adjustable top mounts generally click, no matter what you do. It's just the nature of top mounts.
OEM top mounts, remain static but it's always necessary to replace the bearings and pads when the struts are off. Even the dealership will replace the bearings and pads, if they have to remove or replace the struts.
I understand the price differential in the UK and Europe and can imagine they wouldn't unless they were worn.in my experience they will check the top mounts and bearings and replace if worn, but not automatically.
This is the UK where we pay through the nose for genuine parts.
Not all mechanics/technicians know what they're doing either and don't work under requirements of a warranty.Never heard such a requirement to replace the top mounts when the strut assembly is taken apart. Had shocks replaced recently under warranty for a different car - the OEM tops were reused. Checked with a friend mechanic - he says it's bullshit and is never done (and never causes issues even for old cars).
This is funny, even Hyundai themselves (in workshop manual which can be found on this forum) says nothing about using new bearing and pad and only advices to check for wear and damage and the only part not meant to be reused is the lock nut. For Your information i reused OEM bearing and pad with eibach springs and there were no noises whatsoever. After few weaks i did the same with forge topounts and the clunks appeared. Coincidence?Oh no, I just have to ask the obvious questions.
If the original OEM units were utilized, they're already compressed and need to be replaced with new units. The new units need to be seated just like coil over or coil springs. If they weren't replaced with new units, they've already conformed to the OEM top mounts and are useless.
This has to be done with every new mounting and remounting of the OEM struts, new struts, or adjustable top mounts
There are somethings, that need to be left up to a professional installer who has the knowledge. It's not a novice scenario when mounting suspension parts.
It's either an acquired knowledge and skill or it isn't. When it isn't, it's best left up to a professional to do.