Ok, here goes....
Before you cut and drill your real mudflaps, PLEASE get 2 decent pieces of cardboard, cut them to 385 * 285mm, the size of the Rally Armor universal mudflaps, and make cardboard ones and test fit them FIRST. I can't guarantee my hole measurements are 100% accurate.
Test fit them, make the hole adjustments, moving the holes out towards the outside edge will obviously make the flap stick out a little less. Moving the holes down will make the bottom edge a little higher off the ground. And visa versa, for in and up obviously.
I actually made the centre hole of the three holes near to the guard just a round hole. I made the top and bottom holes the same height, but about 2 hole widths wide, so you could rotate the mudflap on the centre hole just a little, to make sure the mudflap was perfectly aligned with the guard, straight up and down. I found I had to attach the mudflap with just the three outer screws LOOSELY screwed in, replace the wheel, and then drop the car right off the jack. It was impossible to align the mudflap to be perfectly vertical with the car on the jack, because when you drop it down the angles change.
On the FRONT mudflap, the very top hole does NOT exist on the inner guard.. I had some spare screws from other factory mudflaps, so I just drilled a small hole in the plastic inner guard once the mudflap was in position, and very carefully (and not too tightly) screwed a screw into that hole, no steel clip required as long as you are not heavy handed. The rest are there, with screws in place.
I bought some 5mm thick rubber strip. I cut two (maybe 3?) small squares or rubber 25mm x 25mm, and used those between the mudflap and the screwhole on the very inner screw. The hole is recessed a little, and the rubber just served as a bush between the hole and the mudflap to stop you having to bend the mudflap to secure it tightly. So Screw - mudflap - rubber square - rubber square - (maybe a third rubber square?) - hole. You can drill a hole through the two rubber squares if you like.
Now to the rear muddies..... feel the tiny lip from the outer guard around to the inner plastic wheel guard....
The rear outer guard sits about 5mm proud of the inner wheel guard, so I used 1 piece of 5mm thick rubber between the mudflap and inner guard to ensure the mudflap sat flush with the outer guard lip, and wasn't bent around a corner when screwed up. 25mm x 25mm, but you will need the hole in the rubber to be fairly close to one edge rather than in the middle.
All three of the outer holes are present, so no need to create a hole on the inner guard for the top screw, it is already there. Screw - mudflap - 5mm rubber bush - hole. Keep the rubber in position whilst you screw in, or it will rotate, and stick out between the mudflap and the guard.
The fourth (most inner) hole does NOT exist. Get the three outer ones fitted perfectly, and then mark the inner guard with a permanent marker through the fourth hole. That is where the screw needs to be secured. Remove the mudflap, and do NOT drill a hole where the mark is. This area is NOT as tough as the hole made for the front mudflap, so you need to make sure it is secure.
I got two of those steel U shaped screw mounts, designed to hold screws on surfaces that are not super strong, like this:
and i sliced a small cut in the panel with my Stanley Knife about 5mm to the left (or right or above) of the mark, fitted this mount, so the fourth screw screwed into through the inner guard, and through this mount, and secured to the panel really well. It is NOT load bearing, so it doesn't need to be a big screw, super strong, or super tight, but it does keep the inner portion of the mudflap in place.
Once you have test fitted your cardboard mudflaps, drilled the holes you need to drill, and fitted the securing clips, AND you are happy with the alignment and positioning, you can then transfer the pattern from the cardboard to your real mudflaps. Drilling was easy. I cut the shape with a very sharp Stanley knife. Cut carefully on a hard wooden board. You may have to do two or three cuts to get right through the mudflap. The three stitches in my palm can attest to how sharp the blade was!
If you have a better method of cutting the flaps, please use it, the Stanley knife method was tough and dangerous.
To make the other side, you just need to REVERSE IMAGE the cuts and holes. Place the two flaps together, with the Rally Armor branding together, then copy the first mudflap over to the second, and you will have a mirror image of the first, and it will fit first time on the passenger side.
Please ask me any questions, I am only to happy to help.
Cheers, David
