I have a non-performance pack (NPP) Veloster N and a Jb4. Thought I'd share some findings I've been collecting with my car to show how the tuning compares to the performance pack (PP) models.
As is well known, the NPP has 250 HP and pulls 260 ft/lbs to 4000rpms. The PP has 275 HP and pulls 260 ft/lbs to 4700rpms, based on data that Hyundai has published. I've suspected that this difference is entirely caused by tuning differences and it seems the datalogs show this.
So I've data logged my NPP and compared it to PP data based on ecu_psi data recorded by the jb4 data logger. What's interesting is that both models have around the same boost (14-15psi) up to 4000 rpms. However the NPP model quickly drops the boost to 11-12 whereas the PP model holds 14-15 to 5500 RPM before dropping off to 11-12 PSI. You can see that in the first graph below. It also confirms my feeling that the NPP stock tune has nice kick in the midrange but craps out noticeably thereafter.
So, with the JB4 tuner I've found you can create a map6 (custom) profile that uses the same boost offsets as map 2 until 4k rpm, and then uses map3 offsets above 4k rpm. This results in similar boost through the rpm range that others have posted for map2 on their PP cars. For those not aware, map2 is for 93 octane, and adds 5 lbs of boost, tapering off to 4 lbs on the top end. With the NPP you can add 6 lbs of boost above 4k, and then taper off later in the rpm range to achieve the same affect for 93 octane use.
The second screenshot is my current map 6. Below 4k, what I'm currently using is closer to map1 (lower boost) which helps ease 2nd gear wheel spin on the all-season tires I'm running for winter. However, 4500rpm and above is the map3 profile. Even so, boost peaks at just below 18 psi at around 4k and then then tapers to just above 16 psi at 6k rpms. I'm seeing full timing advance on all 4 cylinders, and intake air temps look reasonable. I could run an extra pound or two down in the low to mid-range, but I'll probably wait to do that once the summer tires go back on. The third screenshot is a graph of a third-gear pull in upper 50-degree (F) weather. The blue line is boost -- look how flat it is until 6k.
I'll have to say, with the custom tune, the feeling is much improved. I like the power delivery much better as it feels much more linear up to 6k. The boost kicks you back and then it keeps you there in the seat until 6k, which is where I normally shift.
I have not confirmed via dyno, but I don't see any reason why the NPP version with a tune would have any less horsepower than a PP with a tune. It does take a different boost map to get there. Regardless, it ends up being a pretty good bang for the buck as you can gain back the 25 HP deficit, plus gain the additional power a PP car would get with a jb4 tune.
As is well known, the NPP has 250 HP and pulls 260 ft/lbs to 4000rpms. The PP has 275 HP and pulls 260 ft/lbs to 4700rpms, based on data that Hyundai has published. I've suspected that this difference is entirely caused by tuning differences and it seems the datalogs show this.
So I've data logged my NPP and compared it to PP data based on ecu_psi data recorded by the jb4 data logger. What's interesting is that both models have around the same boost (14-15psi) up to 4000 rpms. However the NPP model quickly drops the boost to 11-12 whereas the PP model holds 14-15 to 5500 RPM before dropping off to 11-12 PSI. You can see that in the first graph below. It also confirms my feeling that the NPP stock tune has nice kick in the midrange but craps out noticeably thereafter.
So, with the JB4 tuner I've found you can create a map6 (custom) profile that uses the same boost offsets as map 2 until 4k rpm, and then uses map3 offsets above 4k rpm. This results in similar boost through the rpm range that others have posted for map2 on their PP cars. For those not aware, map2 is for 93 octane, and adds 5 lbs of boost, tapering off to 4 lbs on the top end. With the NPP you can add 6 lbs of boost above 4k, and then taper off later in the rpm range to achieve the same affect for 93 octane use.
The second screenshot is my current map 6. Below 4k, what I'm currently using is closer to map1 (lower boost) which helps ease 2nd gear wheel spin on the all-season tires I'm running for winter. However, 4500rpm and above is the map3 profile. Even so, boost peaks at just below 18 psi at around 4k and then then tapers to just above 16 psi at 6k rpms. I'm seeing full timing advance on all 4 cylinders, and intake air temps look reasonable. I could run an extra pound or two down in the low to mid-range, but I'll probably wait to do that once the summer tires go back on. The third screenshot is a graph of a third-gear pull in upper 50-degree (F) weather. The blue line is boost -- look how flat it is until 6k.
I'll have to say, with the custom tune, the feeling is much improved. I like the power delivery much better as it feels much more linear up to 6k. The boost kicks you back and then it keeps you there in the seat until 6k, which is where I normally shift.
I have not confirmed via dyno, but I don't see any reason why the NPP version with a tune would have any less horsepower than a PP with a tune. It does take a different boost map to get there. Regardless, it ends up being a pretty good bang for the buck as you can gain back the 25 HP deficit, plus gain the additional power a PP car would get with a jb4 tune.
Attachments
Last edited: