Its not enoughJust taken delivery of my i20N and first time out at night the high beam was certainly more low beam, quickly resolved by adjusting the setting from 3 to 0 for just two up with no luggage. What a difference!
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I20N headlights
- Thread starter tc222
- Start date
Use of the i20N's switch that permits dashboard adjustment of the headlights' 'range' is explained here
Owners complaints have been that when a new i20N is delivered to a buyer, even if the position of the dashboard switch is set to "0" (its 'highest' setting) it's probable that the range of the headlights will still be poor. (That's why much of this forum thread has been devoted to increasing the range of the headlights by manually adjusting the headlights themselves.) Plainly, if a new i20N is delivered to a buyer with its headlight levelling switch set to "3" (its 'lowest' setting), when the car is just two up with no luggage the range of the headlights will be pitiful.
Owners complaints have been that when a new i20N is delivered to a buyer, even if the position of the dashboard switch is set to "0" (its 'highest' setting) it's probable that the range of the headlights will still be poor. (That's why much of this forum thread has been devoted to increasing the range of the headlights by manually adjusting the headlights themselves.) Plainly, if a new i20N is delivered to a buyer with its headlight levelling switch set to "3" (its 'lowest' setting), when the car is just two up with no luggage the range of the headlights will be pitiful.
Yeah mine was set on 3 when I picked it up.Set on 0 Found the dip beam to be ok. I came from a Seat Ibiza with xenon’s and lights no better or worse than them. The main beams on the other hand set way too low which I have adjusted using methods earlier on in the thread.
If you are going to use a screwdriver, I believe you'll need a long Phillips #2 (PH2).
It's likely that a Pozidriv PZ2 would also work, but a PH2 should offer less risk of mutilating the plastic 'teeth' of the adjuster.
As advised above, rotating the 13mm head of the adjuster mechanism is less risky. I found it impossible to get a reliable grip on my i20 SE Connect's adjuster's head using an ordinary socket and eventually DIYed a suitable tool by cutting down an ancient hex tube-spanner.
On i20n headlamps, it is not really PH or PZ for real. It is a knurling wheel, through the resistance it's hard to knurl proper. The knurls will get wear out, cause plastic. So using socket is always recommend.
For headlight beam adjustment the i20 and i20N manuals advise use of a screwdriver.
In this (not great quality) image of an adjuster it should be possible to see the plastic teeth (arrowed in red) on the 'knurling wheel'.
When a suitably-sized Phillips cross-head screwdriver is used to adjust the beam, the end of the screwdriver is poked into the headlight and engages with the teeth on the wheel, and rotating the screwdriver then turns the wheel.
If the wrong size/type of screwdriver is used it will not engage properly with the wheel's teeth and, should the person attempting to make the adjustment persist, there's a good chance that the teeth will be damaged. Even when the correct screwdriver is used, if the wheel is reluctant to move and the person gets brutal, damage will occur.
Turning the head of the adjuster with a 13mm wrench sidesteps the risk of screwdriver damage, but may not be practicable with the headlight in situ.
My i20 SE Connect's halogen headlights have just two adjusters - one for vertical beam adjustment and the other for horizontal adjustment. Although I can adjust the vertical aim using the bespoke 13mm tool I made, I cannot reach the the horizontal aim-adjuster from above the headlight. I MIGHT be able to reach the horizontal adjuster if I removed the wheel-arch liner, but if I had to adjust the horizontal aim I'd risk using a screwdriver (and I bet that's what a Hyundai technician would also do).
It's perhaps worth adding that, before fiddling about with the aim, it makes good sense to mark the adjuster's head so that it's easy to see how far you've moved it. I used a small blob of white paint.
In this (not great quality) image of an adjuster it should be possible to see the plastic teeth (arrowed in red) on the 'knurling wheel'.
When a suitably-sized Phillips cross-head screwdriver is used to adjust the beam, the end of the screwdriver is poked into the headlight and engages with the teeth on the wheel, and rotating the screwdriver then turns the wheel.
If the wrong size/type of screwdriver is used it will not engage properly with the wheel's teeth and, should the person attempting to make the adjustment persist, there's a good chance that the teeth will be damaged. Even when the correct screwdriver is used, if the wheel is reluctant to move and the person gets brutal, damage will occur.
Turning the head of the adjuster with a 13mm wrench sidesteps the risk of screwdriver damage, but may not be practicable with the headlight in situ.
My i20 SE Connect's halogen headlights have just two adjusters - one for vertical beam adjustment and the other for horizontal adjustment. Although I can adjust the vertical aim using the bespoke 13mm tool I made, I cannot reach the the horizontal aim-adjuster from above the headlight. I MIGHT be able to reach the horizontal adjuster if I removed the wheel-arch liner, but if I had to adjust the horizontal aim I'd risk using a screwdriver (and I bet that's what a Hyundai technician would also do).
It's perhaps worth adding that, before fiddling about with the aim, it makes good sense to mark the adjuster's head so that it's easy to see how far you've moved it. I used a small blob of white paint.
I'm wary of that image in the i20N manual.
The headlamp adjustment information in the manual for 'ordinary' 3rd-generation i20 cars shows four different headlamp versions and different ways to adjust their beam aim with screwdrivers.
There's no doubt that - to adjust the aim of the headlamp shown in the picture you have provided - the screwdriver is inserted into holes on the headlamp's upper surface and this image
indicates (red arrows) the path the screwdrivers take to the adjusters (circled in green) - but I'm not confident the image is of a i20N's headlamp.
The headlamp adjustment information in the manual for 'ordinary' 3rd-generation i20 cars shows four different headlamp versions and different ways to adjust their beam aim with screwdrivers.
There's no doubt that - to adjust the aim of the headlamp shown in the picture you have provided - the screwdriver is inserted into holes on the headlamp's upper surface and this image
indicates (red arrows) the path the screwdrivers take to the adjusters (circled in green) - but I'm not confident the image is of a i20N's headlamp.
The picture in Hyundai i20N handbooks is of the all-halogen-bulb headlight-unit fitted to 'base model' i20 cars (eg. my 2021 SE Connect) and not of the LED unit all i20N cars have as standard..
This photo is of an all-halogen-bulb headlight off a scrapped 3rd generation 'basic' i20 and it's obvious that it matches the picture in the i20N handbook.
This photo is of an all-halogen-bulb headlight off a scrapped 3rd generation 'basic' i20 and it's obvious that it matches the picture in the i20N handbook.
Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread.
I asked the dealer to adjust my headlights at the 1500km service but all they did was to raise the dip beams too high. They were set above the horizon and using the info from here I set them down to the horizon which seems about right to me for the top cut off.
For the headlights I placed a white door on its side against the roller door and rolled the car back as far as possible which gave me 1.7m headlights to the door. I marked the dipped beam top cut offs, including the angle, on the door with a pencil and then the main beams centre with a cross and top and bottom limits.
Both main beam top limits were below the dip cutoffs just as I knew they had to be.
Getting the phillips screws out of the cover plates was tedious enough that they wont be going back on because they serve no purpose and are a pain to deal with. They aren't tight and you can unscrew them by hand just about. The LH side, on RHD if it varies, was easy enough with a 13mm socket on a small bar with a swivel head. So I did that side with the engine running and lights on until the centre[where the cross was marked] moved up to the dip cut off and the horizon.
The RH side was much more restricted and I had to unplug the harness to get at it and then wing it with how far to turn the adjuster. These adjusters can be turned using the phillips drive instead of the 13mm hex head because they turn quite easily. I used a right angle phillips screw driver.
When I checked the RH main beam the centre was just below the horizon and I left it there until I see what results I get on the road.
A word of warning to anyone else who might think that taking the small top tube off the header tank could be a good idea to get some more room. I got it back on in a nano second when the coolant started spraying everywhere but it was still a longish clean up spraying it all down with water and blowing it dry. I had that connection off and got it on both of them so used kitchen roll to draw it out and then blew them dry. Luckily it still worked!
Goodness knows where they are L to R but hopefully this is a big improvement and at least I know how to adjust it now.
Whoever adjusts the headlights at the factory needs a major kick up the arse for not doing their job properly.
I asked the dealer to adjust my headlights at the 1500km service but all they did was to raise the dip beams too high. They were set above the horizon and using the info from here I set them down to the horizon which seems about right to me for the top cut off.
For the headlights I placed a white door on its side against the roller door and rolled the car back as far as possible which gave me 1.7m headlights to the door. I marked the dipped beam top cut offs, including the angle, on the door with a pencil and then the main beams centre with a cross and top and bottom limits.
Both main beam top limits were below the dip cutoffs just as I knew they had to be.
Getting the phillips screws out of the cover plates was tedious enough that they wont be going back on because they serve no purpose and are a pain to deal with. They aren't tight and you can unscrew them by hand just about. The LH side, on RHD if it varies, was easy enough with a 13mm socket on a small bar with a swivel head. So I did that side with the engine running and lights on until the centre[where the cross was marked] moved up to the dip cut off and the horizon.
The RH side was much more restricted and I had to unplug the harness to get at it and then wing it with how far to turn the adjuster. These adjusters can be turned using the phillips drive instead of the 13mm hex head because they turn quite easily. I used a right angle phillips screw driver.
When I checked the RH main beam the centre was just below the horizon and I left it there until I see what results I get on the road.
A word of warning to anyone else who might think that taking the small top tube off the header tank could be a good idea to get some more room. I got it back on in a nano second when the coolant started spraying everywhere but it was still a longish clean up spraying it all down with water and blowing it dry. I had that connection off and got it on both of them so used kitchen roll to draw it out and then blew them dry. Luckily it still worked!
Goodness knows where they are L to R but hopefully this is a big improvement and at least I know how to adjust it now.
Whoever adjusts the headlights at the factory needs a major kick up the arse for not doing their job properly.
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The cover plate is simply a guide that directs a long screwdriver and stops it disengaging when you adjust the low beam from above.
If it's a guide why is the face flat with no indent that would act as a guide?
It does stop you from using a 13mm socket as an alternative and you can see the head of the hex to get a phillips drive into it, when that plate is removed.
Are saying that it acts as a guide if you go down through the conventional path from the top where it's marked but it's hard to see how it would work?
I'm wondering if the vertical access hole connects with the top main beam height adjuster and the cover plate is to make sure the lower adjuster for the dip height is the only one exposed? That would limit the confusion.
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It may well act as a deterrent to stop in advertent adjustment of the main beam, but also if you look back at the pictures people have added to
In particular the picture in the link below, the plate absolutely guides a screwdriver onto the adjustment pawl and even formed with the angled ends to facilitate this.
HERE
It may well be a deterrent to stop fiddling with the wrong adjuster, but also if you look back through the pictures posted on page 2 of this thread you will see the plate in position.
In particular the picture in the link below, the plate absolutely guides a screwdriver onto the adjustment pawl and even formed with the angled ends to facilitate this.
HERE
That does make sense after going and having another look. The screwdriver goes under that plate to engage with the pawl behind the hex head. The pawl is steel and substantial.
This is probably the reason the high beam isn't being adjusted, because they would have to loosen that screw and rotate the plate to get to it.
Once i'm happy with the settings i'll put those plates back, so they don't get lost.
After trying it out this evening the settings are perfect.
Dip with the horizontal cut off set on the horizon lights up the road without blinding oncoming cars.
Main beams set to centre on that cut off are just right on the road with the lower half adding to the illumination of the road and surroundings while the upper half lights up the rest.
Now the headlights are excellent and the auto features are the cherry on the cake.
Dip with the horizontal cut off set on the horizon lights up the road without blinding oncoming cars.
Main beams set to centre on that cut off are just right on the road with the lower half adding to the illumination of the road and surroundings while the upper half lights up the rest.
Now the headlights are excellent and the auto features are the cherry on the cake.
I decided not to put the plates back on for 2 reasons.
Firstly so I don't drop and lose them.
To make it difficult for anyone else[dealer] to mess the settings up during a service because they just go from the top and play with the dip settings.
Firstly so I don't drop and lose them.
To make it difficult for anyone else[dealer] to mess the settings up during a service because they just go from the top and play with the dip settings.
Hello. If this headlight refers to I20N, Then which screw of them adjusts the hight of the high beem please?