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Suspension and Chassis Front Sway Bar Install?
- Thread starter Curves
- Start date
Yes I have.
Nope, takes a little maneuvering to get out but will do so, without either. Suggest you utilize a hydraulic lift somewhere. it's not really a job for ramps. It can be done but be ready to bust some fingers.
Nope, takes a little maneuvering to get out but will do so, without either. Suggest you utilize a hydraulic lift somewhere. it's not really a job for ramps. It can be done but be ready to bust some fingers.
Are you running a 24mm Front Bar?
If so, how did it change the ride on the street for regular daily driving?
My 22mm Rear Bar does not make daily driving any rougher.
24mm front and 24mm rear Whiteline. I didn't feel any change in the actual ride but you have to remember, I'm using a Mando ECS 10 suspension tuner. I can change the ride quite drastically, so ride to me is relative.
Turn in was much quicker and traction is noticeable better. I don't get any body roll as with the OEM sway bar and there's literally no effort in steering. It might be a bit more twitchy but in a good way.
I have the springs to install but I'm making changes progressively. I may not utilize them but I'll see as the newness wears off.
I'm also using Whiteline KLC180-295 adjustable end links and Anti-Lift/Caster Bushing Kit.
https://www.genracer.com/whiteline-front-24mm-sway-bar-for-2019-hyundai-veloster-n/
Turn in was much quicker and traction is noticeable better. I don't get any body roll as with the OEM sway bar and there's literally no effort in steering. It might be a bit more twitchy but in a good way.
I have the springs to install but I'm making changes progressively. I may not utilize them but I'll see as the newness wears off.
I'm also using Whiteline KLC180-295 adjustable end links and Anti-Lift/Caster Bushing Kit.
https://www.genracer.com/whiteline-front-24mm-sway-bar-for-2019-hyundai-veloster-n/
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Do you get any knocking noises coming from your rear bar ? Got a horrendous knocking noise coming from my rear 24mm bar. Thanks.
I have also both front and rear ARB-s installed together with Whiteline drop links and their front anti lift kit. I am using ST XTA coilover suspension and Whiteline kit makes remarkable changes on the track. On normal roads more beefy ARB-s does not make much changes but if you will also install Whiteline anti lift kit, there will be also big difference on regular roads.
I assume that the car's big difference is in the positive way - for daily/sporty regular roads?
Stiffening the sway bars isn't going to increase the under/over-steering ?
Just to confirm you can install the front anti roll bar without dropping the sub frame??
Cheers
Base: 23mm front
Performance pack: 21mm front
Both models: 19mm rear
Just looking at it, it's possible with the right sockets, extensions and swivel ends. There's enough space to pull the bar out without dropping the subframe and the real challenge would be getting a socket on 2 of the bolts that sit right under the steering rack. Just keep in mind this is just for the Veloster N. I have no idea how it is for the i30Ns.
OK. I'm going to go ahead and update this thread and say no, it's impossible to install the front bar without dropping the subframe. The ends were a lot longer than I thought and really protrudes past the control arms. Although the good thing is, it's not that hard to drop. The total time it took for me to install it from jacking the car up to dropping it on the ground was about 4 hours. And I even took my time on it.
Here's some pointers for those that want to have a go at it:
-The service manual has you disconnecting the steering rack ball joints and control arms but you don't have to since all we're doing is installing a new sway bar. It'll also help keep you alignment the same.
-If you have gotten an alignment with Uniq Performance collars installed, then you shouldn't have to do another alignment. Even then, there are dimple lines on the subframe that that makes indents on the chassis as the subframe gets bolted into the chassis at the factory. It's supposed to help with the subframe not shifting around but mine still shifted on me...
-You do have to unbolt the steering rack from the subframe to get to the 2 bolts under it (and the steering rack bolts are torqued quite a bit). The OEM sway bar brackets are huge so a socket will not fit in between the subframe and steering rack. The Whiteline brackets are much smaller so you can get a socket in there while leaving the steering rack in.
-Remove the downpipe hangers from the subframe first when dropping the subframe. Then remove them from the downpipe completely. This'll make reinstalling the subframe much easier and you can slip the hangers in when everything is bolted into the chassis.
-Remove the battery and tray to disconnect the power steering harness. It's located on the strut wall.
-I used the floor jack to get the subframe back in the car. Since I did this job myself, I Jane Fonda'd the jack and got that subframe back in. If you're not comfortable doing this, get a 2nd hand to help.
If the only things you've done with a wrench is maintenance, I would highly suggest seeking help or just having a shop do it. I didn't find this job too difficult but I could see how a novice wrencher would be in a bind doing this job.
Here's some pointers for those that want to have a go at it:
-The service manual has you disconnecting the steering rack ball joints and control arms but you don't have to since all we're doing is installing a new sway bar. It'll also help keep you alignment the same.
-If you have gotten an alignment with Uniq Performance collars installed, then you shouldn't have to do another alignment. Even then, there are dimple lines on the subframe that that makes indents on the chassis as the subframe gets bolted into the chassis at the factory. It's supposed to help with the subframe not shifting around but mine still shifted on me...
-You do have to unbolt the steering rack from the subframe to get to the 2 bolts under it (and the steering rack bolts are torqued quite a bit). The OEM sway bar brackets are huge so a socket will not fit in between the subframe and steering rack. The Whiteline brackets are much smaller so you can get a socket in there while leaving the steering rack in.
-Remove the downpipe hangers from the subframe first when dropping the subframe. Then remove them from the downpipe completely. This'll make reinstalling the subframe much easier and you can slip the hangers in when everything is bolted into the chassis.
-Remove the battery and tray to disconnect the power steering harness. It's located on the strut wall.
-I used the floor jack to get the subframe back in the car. Since I did this job myself, I Jane Fonda'd the jack and got that subframe back in. If you're not comfortable doing this, get a 2nd hand to help.
If the only things you've done with a wrench is maintenance, I would highly suggest seeking help or just having a shop do it. I didn't find this job too difficult but I could see how a novice wrencher would be in a bind doing this job.
