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Engine FORGE MOTORSPORTS FMIC INSTALL

R Veloster N

Well-Known Member
Mar 5, 2019
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Well as I stated a little while ago, the Forge Motorsport is installed. The install went smoothly and without a hitch.

As we have already discussed previously, the change to the unit was the removal of the air curtain around the unit. It was a problem to begin with and it needed to be trimmed for the bumper facia to be reinstalled.

With the removal of the air curtain, the temperature sensor needed a new home. In its normal location, you cannot install the FMIC. So, it needs to be cut off and repositioned after the FMIC is installed.

The sensor bracket is welded onto the collapsable bumper underside. So you have to cut it off and grind down the welds. I found the easiest way, was utilizing a Dremel Tool with a metal cutoff wheel and and small grind wheel. It's easy to handle and control. Cost is negligible as well.
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Once the sensor mounting was removed, I needed to come up with an alternative method of remounting it back into the same location. After a little brainstorming (that's all I got at this age anyway), I need to come up with a bracket that could be sourced locally. Which could be quickly modified and was inexpensive. So, I made a short trip to the local hardware store and did some searching and came up with several alternatives.

First, thought was a rubber and steel well nut application and repurposing the OEM mount. However, this was going to be problem with the size of the hole needed in the bumper and most people don't have the required tooling to do the job. I wanted to make it removable, for any additional work that may have to be done. So, I looked for a preformed L-Bracket. I did find the necessary bracket but found it would take a bit of modification to accept the OEM sensor mounting. The bracket need to be shortened by about 1/2 inch on one end. Then a keyhole need to be cut into two of the existing holes to allow the plastic fastener to lock into place. Two holes, two positions.

Drill a couple of pilot hole where the original sensor mount was and utilize some self-tapping rubber sealed bolts. It's back in the same air stream as the OEM mount position and much cleaner than the OEM mounting. There's no change in its original location. The only problem was, I cut the keyhole in the wrong direction. So, I had to make another with a modification of turning the bracket around to clear the FMIC. Yes, even I mess up!! The sensor snaps back into the mount just like the original. So, no worries about it coming off and flopping around.

This is what I came up with in the beginning;
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I’m going to provide Forge Motorsports a copy of the bracket, if we end up going this direction.

With this completed, I mounted the FMIC and hardware as the instructions suggested and started to modify them as well. I've got tons of photos of before during and after the mounting. So there will be no shortage of instructional photos available. I also found there is no need to remove the collapsible bumper either as suggested for the i30N. So, this make the FMIC install even easier. You can still remove it, if you think it will be easier for you to cut off the temp sensor bracket but not required.

All the hardware provided with the mount is excellent and the instructions are thorough. It's really about an hour and a half process from bumper fascia removal reinstall. If you are adept with a modicum of mechanical skills, it's moderately easy to understand and install. Nothing to fear or really mess up.

This will be a quick narrative of the install as Forge Motorsport has excellent instructions. I can elaborate on specific details for the install, to help make it go smoothly for all concerned.

On to the install;


Most of you know how to remove the bumper fascia already, so we can dispense with the removal instructions. Removal is straightforward and about a 10 minute process. Once the removal of the bumper fascia and under pan are complete, you'll get a look at the OEM air curtain ducting and FMIC.
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The first thing you'll have to do is; remove the lower plastic Air Curtain from the OEM FMIC. There are four 10mm bolts holding it in place. The ducting will not be utilized again, with the installation of the Forge Motorsport FMIC. Remove it and lay it aside out of the way.
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R Veloster N

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Mar 5, 2019
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You'll now move to under the car, looking at the both the intake silicone intake and hard pipe. They're relatively easy to remove with the aid of a 7mm socket and 1/4" ratchet & flat blade screwdriver. Both have to be disconnected prior to the OEM FMIC removal. The reason for the flat blade screwdriver is; once the clamps are loosened, the silicone piping needs to be pryed back and removed. They're fairly snug to the OEM tubing. With some gentle prying, they'll slide off quite easily.

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Once you removed the silicone tubing from both sides, you can now move onto removing the OEM FMIC, setting it aside with the other parts, that will no longer be utilized. Note; keep all your bolts in either a small ziplock bag or tupperware container and set them aside. Everything you'll require for mounting the Forge Motorsport FMIC is included, with the exception of the original mounting bolts.
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Next you'll move on to removing the hard pipe on the passenger side and the remaining silicone tube. There are 4 hose clamps on the hard pipe and two on the intake pipe, with a cap on each one of the hose clamps. A pair of side cutters or pliers will easily remove the caps. The hose clamps are 7mm or you can utilize a flat blade screwdriver.

There is a 10mm bolt holding the hard pipe in place. Remove it, then remove the grommet and washers on the original hard pipe. You'll be reutilizing them again for the new hard pipe in the FMIC kit. Reinstall the grommet as they were installed on the OEM hard pipe. I found it best, to pre-assemble the silicone piping on to the new FMIC pipe, prior to mounting on the car.
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Don't snug up any of the hose clamps until everything is in place, to include the new Forge Motorsports FMIC. Once the FMIC is back in place and lightly tightened, then you can begin to adjust the piping and secure the clamps .

Now comes the work;

You're going to need to remove the original temperature sensor and it's mounting. The new FMIC will not fit into location, until you have removed it from the underside of the crash bumper. This is going to take a little bit of patiences on your part. Removal is going to require either an ; angle grinder & cutoff wheel or Dremel Tool with metal cutoff wheel, grinding stones & black semi-gloss paint. Note; I recommend the Dremel Tool w/metal cutoff wheel. It's much easier to control and more precise. The VN doesn't require removal of the collapsable bumper and the Dremel Tool works just as well as an angle grinder. With Dremel Tool use, the crash bumper removal step can be omitted, as required for the i30N.

First, carefully remove the sensor and set it aside. You can either detach it completely or just tuck it back onto itself.

Cut from either side into the bracket not the welds, until your thru each side and the original sensor mount is off. Then you'll work on the welds separately . The welds need to be ground off and removed completely.

After the sensor bracket removal and the welds have been ground down, sand to clear off any debris, wipe it with some denatured alcohol or acetone and repaint. Once this task has been performed, you can begin to mount the new FMIC.

When installing the FMIC back into the original location, you'll be installing it from the left to the right , so it will slide into place. Don't worry about the silicone tubing, until the FMIC is mounted and secured with the four original bolts used to hold the lower cooling air curtain into place.
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R Veloster N

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Mar 5, 2019
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With the Forge Motorsport piping in place, install the FMIC from, left to right.
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Slide all the hose clamps loosely onto the tubing, making sure you have them in proper size order. Once you've done this, slide the silicone piping onto the FMIC. Make sure it's seated all the way to the end of the FMIC ducts.

Slide the hose clamps up on the silicons tubing , near the very ends of the silicone tubing with about 1/4" to spare before coming off the silicone tube. Tighten so, they will stay in place and adjust them as necessary.

Once both sides are temporarily secured, look at the level of the FMIC at the top, just under the bumper. Make sure it's straight, level and centered. Then tighten the four securing bolts of the FMIC in a cross pattern, checking the level of the FMIC. Losen, reposition and re-tighten, until you have the FMIC centered and level.

Now proceed under the car and finish tightening the hose clamps. There's no need to over tighten them. Start from the passengers FMIC duct to the hard pipe clamps in a clockwise fashion, until you've tightened all the clamps on both sides. Ending with the last clamp on the drivers side of the FMIC duct.
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Reverse your direction, checking ever hose clamp and hose to make sure the clamps are within 1/4" of the end of each hose and secure. Grab each hose and squeeze them, make sure they're tight and secure. Last thing to do is, tighten the 10mm hard pipe mount bolt, to the bottom of the engine position.
 

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R Veloster N

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Mar 5, 2019
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I can't stress enough; double and triple check your install. If you don't believe something is just right, go back and check it again until you're completely satisfied. Don't move on, until it's right. It will save a lot of time and additional effort in the long run.

Forge Motorsport FMIC Kit comes with excellent instructions, so follow them. Don't short cut or be in a rush. If something isn't working out for you or you become frustrated, STOP!! Take a break and come back to it later.

Have a plan to do the install, giving yourself plenty of time. Read the instruction first and don't proceed until you have. I suggest; setting down and reading them a day or two before you make the install.

Have all your tools available and laid out next to your working area, within easy reach. Don't crowd yourself and breath. If you get interrupted, then stop and take a breather. This is an easy install and shouldn't take anyone more than about 2.5 hours. If it does, then just move the remainder of the install to the next day to finish. Give yourself plenty of time.

Be patient with yourself and what you're working with, especially with jacking the car, to the placement of your jack stands or whatever you decide to utilize. If you don't feel comfortable doing it by yourself, get help or have someone do it for you.
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R Veloster N

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Mar 5, 2019
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This is an additional step for tying back the temperature sensor wire back in where it was with the OEM Lower Air Curtain installed. Tucks it back in place neatly and out of the way. The attachment is both screwed and adhesive backed onto the location;
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New temp sensor bracket painted and ready for fitting;
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For those who are wondering about the finished product, dynoing and data logging; I'll do so, once I've finished some other additions that are presently in the works. Can't even start the car, until some parts are available and installed. So be patient and I'll update everyone, once I have them in my hands.

I'm working with another company for a new CF/FRP upper air curtain that integrates with the Velossa Tech Ram Air Snorkel. We'll see how it works out.

Forge Motorsport is; working on new air curtain for the FMIC and I'll keep you up to date, once I know more but not until they say it's ok to release it.

Little details are important to me and make a world of difference. If it takes and extra day, week or month, I'm going to take it. I don't rush to get a finish product. Even if it means, modifying a part. :)
 
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MrDeeJay

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Apr 14, 2018
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Well done mate, thanks for the guide. 👍

Can I ask, why does the collapsible bumper need removed on the i30n?
 

R Veloster N

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Mar 5, 2019
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Because, Forge Motorsport says it does for the removal of the temp sensor. :)

It maybe, because it's lower than the VN's crash bumper and it won't slide in under the crash bumper with it installed. I'm not particularly sure, as I don't own an i30N or Elantra GT N-Line to look at to find out or compare. I suppose it may also matter, if you're not able to get the car overhead on a lift or can't adequately access the sensor bracket on your back, with the cutter and grinder.

However, I know with the VN, the crash bumper doesn't have to be removed. It slides right into place with no problem.
I utilized a large piece of cardboard between the radiator and the bumper to catch any grinding debris.

The Forge Motorsports install instructions, are very well written, thorough and easy to follow. You won't have any guess work and the sensor mounting point is provided on the upper right hand side of the air curtain. :)

What puzzled me the most was; there is an allen bolt on the i30N temp sensor and it's welded on as well. Not sure why but it didn't need to be. If it has an allen bolt and is screwed into the bottom of the crash bumper, what's the sense of welding it as well?

On the VN, there is no allen bolt and it's tag welded. You can tell, its hand welded on and poorly at that. :)
 
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R Veloster N

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Mar 5, 2019
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If anyone has specific questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I don't care if your a novice or an experienced mechanic. I want you to feel comfortable with the install and confident to undertake it yourself. :)
 

Mr. N

Active Member
Aug 18, 2019
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This is well put and detailed instructions! I hope you had a chance to pat yourself in the back because you have done an excellent job! Looking forward to Forge releasing this IC in the future! :cool:👍
 
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bunvnpp

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Dec 18, 2019
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Just as R Veloster N mention the instruction provided is well detailed and you can skip sections that are exclusive to the i30n only, the challenging part would be the removal of the stock temp sensor bracket. I ordered one with the air curtain and did several cutting and trimming to fit mainly because I wanted to have the relocation sensor on the FMIC and didn't want to drill into the crash bar. I sent the template to Forge Motorsport and hopefully this will help release a new intercooler that have the relocation sensor on the air curtain.

Amazing write up and pictures! I took some pictures myself during my install but not as detailed as yours.

Also those hose clamp cap sucks! Mine were stuck on there for some reason and required a lot more effort to remove. 2 of the caps I had to wedge a screw driver and hammer a bit to pop off
 

Ghost

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Aug 14, 2019
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I would say more than we "N" owners can currently generate. But if I had to guess, I'd say between 500 to 600hp. Just a guess though...

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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R Veloster N

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Mar 5, 2019
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Rocky Mountains, US
I need to thank and I'm grateful to both Luke and Paul @ Forge Motorsport, for allowing me to take this road and join them in some development. They're a great bunch of gentleman and have a lot going on in production.

It's refreshing to deal with professionals, who know their business inside and out. Many kudos, gratefulness and thanks, for their assistance, support and products.

They're products work as advertised and give their customers; confidence, support, trust and performance you can count on!! :D
 
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Ghost

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Any idea or a rough estimate when this kit for the Veloster N will be ready from Forge? Doesn't need to be exact... Thank you in advance.

-Mike