Downpipe install is complete!
23’ with 35k miles
I listed some problems I had and the solution that worked for me below:
I had a stud snap, we used one of those stud extractors and it worked great. I put a picture below. That wasn’t the end though, we had to re-tap the threads because they got stripped from the extractor.
One nut got stuck halfway down the stud so we actually just cut that stud right after the nut. Then extracted it from there. Also had to re-tap these threads.
I really recommend soaking the nuts in pb blaster for a good bit before hand, to help lossen them up. But be prepared for at least one to snap or get stuck, just in case.
Specifically with the Tork Motorsport downpipe the O2 bung is in a weird spot so we got it hot and bent it slightly up, flattened the heat shield on the fire wall side, and pushed the engine forward by removing the rear engine mount. It went in after, no problems.
The biggest thing is to have time, replacement studs, a few extractors, and gaskets ready in case you need them. Theres nothing worse than having to wait on stuff to ship or having to go pick something up mid project.
Have a drill and tap set just in case, they may save you. Also if possible have a torch handy to help loosen the studs although it’s not 100% necessary.
Studs (Many options here: Sxth, Arp, etc) - ARP Studs
Extractor (Any brand will work, this is just the one I bought) - Stud Extractor
Turbo gasket (Sxth seems to be the cheapest) -Downpipe Gasket
I reused the factory gaskets on both sides of the flex pipe going to the midpipe and downpipe with no leaks.
I also reused the factory heat shield for the top of the downpipe, but for the actually “body” I left it off because this one didn’t have the mounting spots. I’ll update this post if it becomes an issue.
I used a stud installer socket, It worked for me can’t guarantee it will for you. - Stud Installer
The torque spec I found for the turbo studs and nuts that hold the downpipe on was 37-39ftlbs I split the difference at 38ftlbs and added some high heat thread locker for assurance.
The install itself would be (in my opinion) extremely difficult without a lift. The amount of times we had to lift up the car and set it back down was insane.
This install is not easy, we had a shop full of tools and in total 3 people working and it still took around 6.5hrs of work across 2 days.
Would I have paid someone to do it? No. Simply because I would rather spend some of my time and save money for other things, however you may not.
As far as sound, in N mode it’s crazy loud. The pops almsot sound like gunshots. But in Eco mode it’s like the car is stock. Genuinely it’s quiet and I can’t tell a huge difference.
Anways I included some sound clips, Tork Motorsport catless downpipe, Xforce non resonated mid pipe, and factory axle back
NO CEL!
ATTACHMENTS - Sorry for the Dropbox link, I can only upload small files here
23’ with 35k miles
I listed some problems I had and the solution that worked for me below:
I had a stud snap, we used one of those stud extractors and it worked great. I put a picture below. That wasn’t the end though, we had to re-tap the threads because they got stripped from the extractor.
One nut got stuck halfway down the stud so we actually just cut that stud right after the nut. Then extracted it from there. Also had to re-tap these threads.
I really recommend soaking the nuts in pb blaster for a good bit before hand, to help lossen them up. But be prepared for at least one to snap or get stuck, just in case.
Specifically with the Tork Motorsport downpipe the O2 bung is in a weird spot so we got it hot and bent it slightly up, flattened the heat shield on the fire wall side, and pushed the engine forward by removing the rear engine mount. It went in after, no problems.
The biggest thing is to have time, replacement studs, a few extractors, and gaskets ready in case you need them. Theres nothing worse than having to wait on stuff to ship or having to go pick something up mid project.
Have a drill and tap set just in case, they may save you. Also if possible have a torch handy to help loosen the studs although it’s not 100% necessary.
Studs (Many options here: Sxth, Arp, etc) - ARP Studs
Extractor (Any brand will work, this is just the one I bought) - Stud Extractor
Turbo gasket (Sxth seems to be the cheapest) -Downpipe Gasket
I reused the factory gaskets on both sides of the flex pipe going to the midpipe and downpipe with no leaks.
I also reused the factory heat shield for the top of the downpipe, but for the actually “body” I left it off because this one didn’t have the mounting spots. I’ll update this post if it becomes an issue.
I used a stud installer socket, It worked for me can’t guarantee it will for you. - Stud Installer
The torque spec I found for the turbo studs and nuts that hold the downpipe on was 37-39ftlbs I split the difference at 38ftlbs and added some high heat thread locker for assurance.
The install itself would be (in my opinion) extremely difficult without a lift. The amount of times we had to lift up the car and set it back down was insane.
This install is not easy, we had a shop full of tools and in total 3 people working and it still took around 6.5hrs of work across 2 days.
Would I have paid someone to do it? No. Simply because I would rather spend some of my time and save money for other things, however you may not.
As far as sound, in N mode it’s crazy loud. The pops almsot sound like gunshots. But in Eco mode it’s like the car is stock. Genuinely it’s quiet and I can’t tell a huge difference.
Anways I included some sound clips, Tork Motorsport catless downpipe, Xforce non resonated mid pipe, and factory axle back
NO CEL!
ATTACHMENTS - Sorry for the Dropbox link, I can only upload small files here