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Tuning Dogbone Bushings/Torque Mounts: How-to & General Discussions

jeroenvde

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Mar 27, 2018
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Had some time this weekend to mount these bushings.
Here is a a small How-to:

The product itself, notice this is for an older Veloster, so I was a bit unsure it would fit a new i30N. It sort of fits, but not 100%... see pictures below
https://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-hv-002.htm

Jack up the car on the left side & secure it with a jack stand under the front subframe.

image002.jpg

The dog bone is located on the left side. You should be able to dismount it without taking off the plastic undertray. I took it off since I was curious to see the engine from underneath.

image003.jpg

Taking it off is very easy, there is no stress or weight on this mount so you should be able to just slide it out. A word of caution, the long 17mm bolt has a nut on the other side. This nut is not welded on, so use 2 wrenches when loosening this nut & bolt.

image004.jpg

Disassembled on the bench. The long 14mm bolt might be tight, So put the mount in a vise to easily loosen the bolt.

image006.jpg

The OEM bushings:

image007.jpg

The Torque Solutions bushings:

image008.jpg

So these are about 4mm thicker... resulting in the following problem:

image009.jpg

image010.jpg

The bushings are too thick resulting in the bolt being too short.
My solution is to shave a few millimeters of the new bushings with a hacksaw. This worked and I was able to reassemble the torque mount.

When reinstalling the mount back on the car, make sure to firstly tighten the 2 14mm bolts to the subframe. After this, tighten the large 17mm bolt. By doing so the engine will stay in its natural position. If you do it the other way around, there might be a chance you pull the engine back a few millimeters and pre-tension the bushings and engine mounts, not good. So it is best to tighten 14mm,14mm,17mm ;)


Review:

These bushings feel much much harder when squeezing them. So I was a bit worried they might be too hard for daily use.
However vibrations and noises are quite acceptable. The most vibrations are in the lower range 0-1500rpm. Higher they are almost not noticeable.
Most vibrations are noticeable in the steering wheel and throttle pedal.

When doing hard pulls thru the gears there is a faster reaction time between throttle input and the car moving forwards.
So this mod will be for people looking for better 0-100 times or a bit more direct feedback when pressing and releasing the throttle.

I was looking for a better clutch feel. A bit of feedback at the point when the clutch engages, this has no effect on the clutch feel sadly :(
So I might be going back to the original bushings and look for a better solution for that quest.

If you like the advantage of a faster responding motor, this is the mod for you.
At the moment of purchasing these bushings they where the only ones on the market. At this moment Powerflex has a i30N specific product
https://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Lower+Torque+Mount+Bush+/13185.html

I would recommend buying the powerflex product since they need no modification with a hacksaw :)

Greets
 
Last edited:
Had some time this weekend to mount these bushings.
Here is a a small How-to:

The product itself, notice this is for an older Veloster, so I was a bit unsure it would fit a new i30N. It sort of fits, but not 100%... see pictures below
https://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-hv-002.htm

Jack up the car on the left side & secure it with a jack stand under the front subframe.

View attachment 6083

The dog bone is located on the left side. You should be able to dismount it without taking off the plastic undertray. I took it off since I was curious to see the engine from underneath.

View attachment 6084

Taking it off is very easy, there is no stress or weight on this mount so you should be able to just slide it out. A word of caution, the long 17mm bolt has a nut on the other side. This nut is not welded on, so use 2 wrenches when loosening this nut & bolt.

View attachment 6085

Disassembled on the bench. The long 14mm bolt might be tight, So put the mount in a vise to easily loosen the bolt.

View attachment 6086

The OEM bushings:

View attachment 6087

The Torque Solutions bushings:

View attachment 6088

So these are about 4mm thicker... resulting in the following problem:

View attachment 6089

View attachment 6090

The bushings are too thick resulting in the bolt being too short.
My solution is to shave a few millimeters of the new bushings with a hacksaw. This worked and I was able to reassemble the torque mount.


Review:

These bushings feel much much harder when squeezing them. So I was a bit worried they might be too hard for daily use.
However vibrations and noises are quite acceptable. The most vibrations are in the lower range 0-1500rpm. Higher they are almost not noticeable.
Most vibrations are noticeable in the steering wheel and throttle pedal.

When doing hard pulls thru the gears there is a faster reaction time between throttle input and the car moving forwards.
So this mod will be for people looking for better 0-100 times or a bit more direct feedback when pressing and releasing the throttle.

I was looking for a better clutch feel. A bit of feedback at the point when the clutch engages, this has no effect on the clutch feel sadly :(
So I might be going back to the original bushings and look for a better solution for that quest.

If you like the advantage of a faster responding motor, this is the mod for you.
At the moment of purchasing these bushings they where the only ones on the market. At this moment Powerflex has a i30N specific product
https://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Lower+Torque+Mount+Bush+/13185.html

I would recommend buying the powerflex product since they need no modification with a hacksaw :)

Greets
Did you test these while running the A/C ? I know it’s out of season but the vibrations I had in my VT when the A/C was on while running a similar bushing was borderline unbearable. There was extremely violent shaking of the entire dashboard.
 
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Did you test these while running the A/C ? I know it’s out of season but the vibrations I had in my VT when the A/C was on while running a similar bushing was borderline unbearable. There was extremely violent shaking of the entire dashboard.
Yes i did. A/C is almost always on.
You can feel it a tiny bit when the a/c kicks in but its very vague. I think the other motor mounts have to work double time now
 
I had one of the TS bushings fitted into the engine side of the rolling rod bracket (after removing 2mm of material from the base (to fit properly) and radially (to minimize NVH)). The firewall side still has the factory rubber bushing.

No perceptible increase in NVH, but I haven’t tried different AC fan settings yet, just the lowest setting so far.
 
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Great write-up @jeroenvde ! Glad to know the older VT bushings can be made to fit with minimal fuss.

Just an FYI, if these poly bushings are anything like the engine mounts I had in my previous car they will actually wear in a bit over time and become a little less harsh.
 
I had one of the TS bushings fitted into the engine side of the rolling rod bracket (after removing 2mm of material from the base (to fit properly) and radially (to minimize NVH)). The firewall side still has the factory rubber bushing.

No perceptible increase in NVH, but I haven’t tried different AC fan settings yet, just the lowest setting so far.
That will increase acceleration feel but not deceleration feel right?
 
Would the yellow bushings available from powerflex be sufficient to eliminate wheel hop? If not, is anyone aware whether or not there is much difference between the purple and yellow in terms of vibration? I'm wanting to reduce the wheel hop but not wanting to add any vibrations if possible! Thanks guys
 
Hello dearwaker97
I have powerflex yellow dogbone bushes on my I30n and i have no wheelhop anymore.
The car is tuned to 319ps now and still no wheelhop. I do not feel any difference in vibrations to the oem ones.
Just out of curiosity, what mods have you done to get to 319ps? Intercooler, Intake etc.?!
 
I have put a 76mm downpipe with 100cell racecat, 76mm flexpipe from Gruppenswang and homemade 76mm exhaust to oem rear silencer. Pipercross airfilter in oem airbox.
Stage 2 Map from BC consulting. Forge ic. Now i like my car:):)
That's some serious changes! What made you decide to change the exhaust out? Do you notice much of a difference with power at the high end?!
 
That's some serious changes! What made you decide to change the exhaust out? Do you notice much of a difference with power at the high end?!
You need to change the exhaust to a bigger for better flow and get rid all heat when you tune. The sound improves to;).
Yes it is better, but our small turbo does not like revs over 6000rpm. Maybe a bigger turbo will be in place after summerwacation:cool:
 
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