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Have you over-revved your engine?

  • No

    Votes: 38 48.1%
  • Yes

    Votes: 35 44.3%
  • It's dead, Jim

    Votes: 6 7.6%

  • Total voters
    79

NULLOBANDITO

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Dec 17, 2018
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Innsbruck, Austria
It happens to the best of us, even professional race car drivers: over revving the engine.
Be it a slight mis-shift or full-blown clutching into the lower gear near redline.

So, did any of you over-rev and what happened?
 
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I have with motorcycles before, with some of the older engines which didn't have over-rev protection. Doing so, lead directly to valve float and bent valves.:eek:

With newer autos especially high performance models, over-reving is near impossible, unless you overwhelm it manually ie; miss a gear, then quickly shift to a lower gear and let the clutch out rapidly.

Just missing a shift at full throttle, the rev-limiter will stop any over-revving. I've even power shifted the VN at full throttle and the rev-limiter stops it cold, then simply falls flat on its face.:p
 
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Didn't happen directly to me but to a mate from the local N group. He went to the N trackday and misshifted from 5th to 2nd. Engine was dead immediately and wouldn't start up. He had to be towed off the track. After inspection they are not yet sure what's broken but everyone is thinking valves. Result was he needed a new engine - and he's still waiting for it (happened ~2 months ago)
 
On track this weekend I was getting a warning message not to change down so early into the lower gear due to risk of over-reving...

But the gear went in and I don't think it over-reved. I was driving with rev-matching in the middle setting. Maybe next time I use highest setting, but then you can feel quite a push forward, when releasing the clutch.
 
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One guy that I know over-revved the N downshifting (just 300 rpm from what hyundai said) and damaged 2 pistons.... They had to take out the engine and repair it
 
Digging out the old thread.

Today during service, mechanic reported then my ECU logged over-reving at 7095 RPM with 114 km/h. I was really surprised because although it happended during trackday, I did not hear any chime or see any warning messages on a dash about it. I also didnt noticed it at all. It must have happend during braking and me releasing clutch too early (2nd gear op speed is 102 kph).

They told that the need to consult Hyundai country importer if my warranty won't be voided in such a case. I'm waiting for their decision. What are your experiences with such cases? Should I be worried?

BTW There were 2 more logs with over-revving with similiar speed but with full throttle. They were at 6950 RPM if I remember correctly. I call this totally a bullshit as it happened outside of track and with full throttle. I can't imagine a scenario when I would downshift with throttle in different position than 0%. I'm guessing that it happened when I tried accelerating on very slippery condition and my wheels just spun completely out of control and very fast so revlimiter reacted too late.
 
Are you having engine problems, is that why you took it into the dealership?

Hyundai dealerships are checking the black box more regularly than ever before. The ECU doesn't log a mechanical over rev but the black box will. It's accessed thru the ECU OBDII port.

Rev-limiter will catch wheel spin no matter how fast/rapid it happens. It will chop power directly @ 6750, which is the redline limited rpm. The only way it can be manually overwhelmed, is by forcing the actual engine speed higher by "selecting a lower gear at or near redline."

Even with WOT and power shifting to a higher gear, the electronic rev-limiter will not allow the engine speed to go over 6750.
 
I have mechanical issues that I had half a year ago like 6 gear synchro. There was no warning, no engine error, no strange sound, no limp mode and no new issues whatsoever. I just need to make sure that they are aware that my current issues were there from the beginning. Is have dealer documents on that and mail exchange with the importer itself.

If rev limiter is that good than 2/3 those logs are complete bullshit. It’s impossible to have over revved second gear with full throttle.
 
@R Veloster N Look at this bullshit

1606204580072.png
It turned out that Set A is from my day on a track while I was on advanced drivers skills course (basic course on braking in slippery condition) - I have pic of my dash in the middle of the day with odometer in view. There was only one excercise in which I could max 2nd gear when coming back around after doing it. It was so small that I tried changing up to 3rd gear but directly after doing it, I needed to brake so there was no point doing that and I didn't.

Set B and C are complete bullshit. Who in hell downshifts withfull throttle applied? I am constantly driving with rev matching so I dont bother to even try heel and toe. Also how its possible to reach 6970 RPM with only 95 km/h? First gear would have like 9k rpm and second max out on 102 km/h.

I have recordings of my whole day on track during my course. I just watched videos of all my drives when I could hit 9156 km on my odometer. Its impossible to tell when I did it. Together with logs B and C I call this whole over revving logging very unreliable.

If they will try to void my warranty I will see them in court. Thank god I have a proof
 
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I'm looking at the throttle percentage and position. The percentages are not indicative of an over rev. You can't have 7079 rpm with a 0.00% pedal percentage and a throttle position of 16.9%. It's not possible.
Also how its possible to reach 6970 RPM with only 95 km/h?
It's not and most of what you're commenting is pretty cut and dry.
Who in hell downshifts with full throttle applied?
Only those drivers who accidently select a lower gear when upshifting, accelerating at WOT.
 
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Overrev can supossedly only happen when you downshift too early. They said that this case with 0% acc pedal position is the worst cos it means that I wanted to upshift but downshifted. I never put 4th gear on a track that day.

Fortunately, I wrote an email to importer explaining my situation and concern and they wrote back that everything is fine. It seems that unless new issues are reported after an overrev, they too don't see any problem with it. Probably unless you exceed some threshold, above which they now some damage might occur, they dont make a mess about it.

I feel relief now :D It would be very unfortunate if after caring so much about it (not even one launch control activation) I would loose warranty
 
Overrev can supposedly only happen when you downshift too early. They said that this case with 0% acc pedal position is the worst cos it means that I wanted to upshift but downshifted. I never put 4th gear on a track that day.

Fortunately, I wrote an email to importer explaining my situation and concern and they wrote back that everything is fine. It seems that unless new issues are reported after an over rev, they too don't see any problem with it. Probably unless you exceed some threshold, above which they now some damage might occur, they don't make a mess about it.

I feel relief now :D It would be very unfortunate if after caring so much about it (not even one launch control activation) I would lose warranty
This doesn't make sense and not necessarily true. If your foot is off the throttle and or with the clutch in, the rpms are at or near idle and the rev-limiter will take over.

However, I'm glad you got it sorted out. :) 👍
 
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I have missed a shift a couple times in the early days of owning my N but nothing drastic!

I have however over revved the tits off an FK8 Type R on a trackday at knockhill due to the gearbox being a bag of shit compared to the n... Not my car, oopsie😂
 
Are you having engine problems, is that why you took it into the dealership?

Hyundai dealerships are checking the black box more regularly than ever before. The ECU doesn't log a mechanical over rev but the black box will. It's accessed thru the ECU OBDII port.

Rev-limiter will catch wheel spin no matter how fast/rapid it happens. It will chop power directly @ 6750, which is the redline limited rpm. The only way it can be manually overwhelmed, is by forcing the actual engine speed higher by "selecting a lower gear at or near redline."

Even with WOT and power shifting to a higher gear, the electronic rev-limiter will not allow the engine speed to go over 6750.
What's the black box? Is it an insurance prerequisite? Or am I being thick?
 
I would still bet it’s ecu but it doesn’t matter. Hyundai logs data which you can see on the table I provided, because they have a track warranty and this is real possibility in N cars to experience extremely hard use.

in regular cars, drivers hardly ever go anywhere near redline. Accidental downshift is always an issue but driving normally will usually means that at 100 mph you might shift to 4th gear instead of 6th and not to 2nd.
 
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Black Box is an; "Event Data Recorder." Used by dealership and insurance companies alike.
This is why there are two types GDS available. One is for nothing but the EDR and the other is for both. The first is utilized by insurance companies and the second is utilized by authorized dealership.
 
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FYI
I spoke with the main mechanic at my dealership. Official guideline is that up until 7100 rpm over rev is ignored and beyond that car will be listed on a special list and every mechanical issue will be closely monitored if it’s not related to overrevving
 
I've noticed on my N that when I get high I'm the revs but before the red, it feels like it cuts the juice so I can't get into dangerous territory. Only noticed a couple of times but I'm definitely not into the red.
 
Very true! 7100 rpm and below isn't outrageous for a engine like this especially when they set redline @ 6750.
I've noticed on my N that when I get high I'm the revs but before the red, it feels like it cuts the juice so I can't get into dangerous territory. Only noticed a couple of times but I'm definitely not into the red.
You can if you accidently select a lower gear when upshifting with WOT. The electronic revlimiter can be overwhelmed if this ^ is done. 👍