Sure, the OEM parameters and safety setting checked out fine, because they never adjusted them. Checking boost and torque is simply putting it on the dyno for a run or three and making sure they're within their allowed specifications. The ECU needs to come out of the car and specific adjustments made. Then reinstalled and run on the dyno to insure there are not problems.
Obviously, the OEM factory safety setting aren't or haven't been adjusted correctly to suit the tune and power output. This is why it's going into limp mode.
Just remember @kamyk155, I'm not the bad guy here. I'm just being honest with you and explaining the obvious. I know it's frustrating but this is part of the game of tuning and modifying and engine. There are pitfalls with every change, some greater than others. Keeping in mind this is a newer format to work with. So there's a bit of a learning curve involved as well.
ECU tuning is not an exact science, never has been. It's more trial and error then anything else.
Obviously, the OEM factory safety setting aren't or haven't been adjusted correctly to suit the tune and power output. This is why it's going into limp mode.
Just remember @kamyk155, I'm not the bad guy here. I'm just being honest with you and explaining the obvious. I know it's frustrating but this is part of the game of tuning and modifying and engine. There are pitfalls with every change, some greater than others. Keeping in mind this is a newer format to work with. So there's a bit of a learning curve involved as well.
ECU tuning is not an exact science, never has been. It's more trial and error then anything else.
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