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Suspension and Chassis Mando Module to tune Veloster N Suspension Computer
- Thread starter Thakid22
- Start date
I installed mine today. I still need more time to appreciate it, but first impressions of the ECS10 built in Comfort and Sport modes (on top of the "stock" Normal mode) are very good. An improvement in my books, less floaty feeling.
Until @R Veloster N gets the english guide, here is some info on how to do the power connection, which is what I found was least clear so far. I decided to use a fuse tap for a clean and removable connection. Our interior fuse panel uses Micro 2 fuses. I got a Micro 2 fuse tap from a local car audio store. I chose a benign accessory to tap into, the interior lamps. This is an unswitched power source, meaning it's powered even when the car is turned off. Since it appears that one must always use the app to activate the ECS10 settings, I do not think being on unswitched power is of any advantage and I will probably change it to a switched source in the future.
The ECS10 power cable has an inline 3A fuse, so any fuse higher than 3A should be ok in the fuse tap for the plug that goes to the ECS10 power line. I bought a 7.5A fuse to connect the ECS10 power cable, but you could use your spare fuse if you like. For the other plug in the fuse tap, which will complete the interior lamp circuit, reuse the 7.5A that was removed to plug in the fuse tap. Note the orientation of the fuse tap and the 7.5A fuse when you remove it. The passenger side contact is the hot side, so the fuse tap should go in with the output wire (with the blue crimp connector on my fuse tap) pointing to the driver side.
Install the fuses into the fuse tap in the same orientation as the 7.5A fuse was in the interior lamp plug. In the Paint schematic in the image below, yellow is the fuse for my ECS10 power and green is the original interior lamp 7.5A fuse. Strip the end of the flying lead of the ECS10 power cable and fasten it in the crimp fitting of the fuse tap (blue).
For the ground lug, I used the stud at the bottom of the fuse panel. Release the nut (1 in image below) using a 10mm wrench enough to be able to slip the ground lug of the ECS10 power cable around the stud and between the plastic bracket of the fuse panel and the metal bracket (2). Before connection to the ECS10, make sure you have a good connection from the ECS10 power plug connector (the black wire contact) to the backside of the metal bracket using a multimeter.
Until @R Veloster N gets the english guide, here is some info on how to do the power connection, which is what I found was least clear so far. I decided to use a fuse tap for a clean and removable connection. Our interior fuse panel uses Micro 2 fuses. I got a Micro 2 fuse tap from a local car audio store. I chose a benign accessory to tap into, the interior lamps. This is an unswitched power source, meaning it's powered even when the car is turned off. Since it appears that one must always use the app to activate the ECS10 settings, I do not think being on unswitched power is of any advantage and I will probably change it to a switched source in the future.
The ECS10 power cable has an inline 3A fuse, so any fuse higher than 3A should be ok in the fuse tap for the plug that goes to the ECS10 power line. I bought a 7.5A fuse to connect the ECS10 power cable, but you could use your spare fuse if you like. For the other plug in the fuse tap, which will complete the interior lamp circuit, reuse the 7.5A that was removed to plug in the fuse tap. Note the orientation of the fuse tap and the 7.5A fuse when you remove it. The passenger side contact is the hot side, so the fuse tap should go in with the output wire (with the blue crimp connector on my fuse tap) pointing to the driver side.
Install the fuses into the fuse tap in the same orientation as the 7.5A fuse was in the interior lamp plug. In the Paint schematic in the image below, yellow is the fuse for my ECS10 power and green is the original interior lamp 7.5A fuse. Strip the end of the flying lead of the ECS10 power cable and fasten it in the crimp fitting of the fuse tap (blue).
For the ground lug, I used the stud at the bottom of the fuse panel. Release the nut (1 in image below) using a 10mm wrench enough to be able to slip the ground lug of the ECS10 power cable around the stud and between the plastic bracket of the fuse panel and the metal bracket (2). Before connection to the ECS10, make sure you have a good connection from the ECS10 power plug connector (the black wire contact) to the backside of the metal bracket using a multimeter.
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This is so cool! I never thought there would be a "tune" for your suspension. I will definitely be following this thread closely! I find comfort mode to be ok for daily use but it could be a little softer/less bouncy, so it looks like there is an affordable option 
You did a great job and the micro fuse tap option, is freaking outstanding.
I've been fighting the flu all week and this morning low and behold, I get a kidney stone that took me to the hospital for half the day. CT scan showed a 3 mm stone near the bladder. So, I'm a little behind and under the weather at the moment.
Sometimes, getting old sucks!!!Not that I don't have a high tolerance to pain but I could swear, I gave birth to twins!!
Second kidney stone in my life. I'd like to not repeat it, for a third.What the heck, I get to celebrate my birthday this month, remember 9/11, get sick, have to replace the blower fan on a 3 year old HVAC Unit, replace a mature Pinion Pine tree and on top of all this, have a kidney stone. I'm nearly ready for everything right now!!
Ha, I'm still above ground, cycling 22 miles a day. Just for sh*ts and grins, I'm going to stick around for at least another 20+ years, even if it chaps off the worlds arse.
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No you don't really!Sounds like a big month, happy to hear the kidney stone turned out ok in the end...I don't want to imagine what that's like
On a scale of 1 to 10 it's about an 11.5+. It's truly excruciating and there's nothing you can do, except go thru it. Some have said, it man's version, to a women having a baby.Excuse me, for taking the dirt road.
Back on the asphalt; Thanks for taking the time to post the narrative, photos of your install and results. It will be a plus, for anyone attempting to do it right, the first time.
What do you guys think, might the ECS fit/ work on the i30 fastback N as well? I was not able to find any informations on that at all. I took a quick look at the app but as supposed only Veloster N as option available.
I am searching for a possibility to increase comfort on long-distance autobahn/high-speed rided and could be the way to go.....
I am searching for a possibility to increase comfort on long-distance autobahn/high-speed rided and could be the way to go.....
All you have to do is, make sure the I30N uses the same adaptive system as the VN. To do so, you're going to have to match part numbers. I think I can provide you with the part number for the VN but I don't know where to look for the i30N.
Keeping in mind the Mando App doesn't display the i30N;
G80
G70
Veloster N
K9
Stinger
So this may mean, there is a significant difference in the suspensions and ECU control of the suspension. You can try contacting Mando directly and ask the question.
Keeping in mind the Mando App doesn't display the i30N;
G80
G70
Veloster N
K9
Stinger
So this may mean, there is a significant difference in the suspensions and ECU control of the suspension. You can try contacting Mando directly and ask the question.
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This will assist you in the i30N installation;
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Suspension and Chassis - Mando ECS10: I30N owners might be interested!
Yep that's for the original V1 unit that works with the VN, G80 and stinger. :) Same company but this; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronically-Controlled-Suspension-Module-Mando-ECS10-For-Hyundai-i30-N/174204813891?hash=item288f6a8243:g:V4YAAOSwu6teWMbvJust make sure you check with them before...
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